Any ram will work, guys have gotten them from tractor part supplier.
It would be best to check your steering travel before buying a ram.
It would be best to check your steering travel before buying a ram.
The one ton swap thread
- Thread starter cody c
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- Thread starter
- #142
Copy that. thanks.
Any threads you could recommend I should read before buying anything? Digging through searches now.
@Behemoth60 might have some spare parts from his build, maybe reach out to Peter.
- Thread starter
- #145
Just an update;
So, after tightening a ton of crap, steering components included (I'm a dummy) it handles so-so.
I mean, it is on unevenly worn 42" Irok's right? But the steering tracks fairly straight for what it is, I think I will need to do another tape measure alignment. 1st gear on the NV4500 finally seems not too low for the truck. I was using second off the line with my 38's before as it was low/short at the stop lights and was throwing in 2nd at like 15km/hr or something. Low range seems adequate with the 4.11's and t-case stock gearing, but the Cummins is torquey enough at idle.
One of the knuckles seems like the new ball joints don't seat all the way in, the one outer shaft is not quite centered, not sure what to make of it, was hoping it would settle or seat in after driving around the neighborhood. Might need to order new ball joints and take it apart, although the ones in are brand new.
I'm going to add in hydraulic (ram) assist. Ordered a tube clamp this morning (1.75"), need to find a hydraulic ram. It looks like I have about 6.75" of travel, so I'll look for a 7", but might go with an 8" ram and try and figure out adding shim(s).
The tires drag on the radius arms first, so I have an audible feedback as to when I'm over steering it.
Handling: not bad, after tightening things up the steering is fairly responsive, no death wobble. I will need to pull the steering box to tap, and may shift the arm a spline or two. I'm using the stock superduty steering drag link parts, and would like just a couple more threads where the "turnbuckle style " link is between the TRE's on that. My steering wheel is also flipped, so I'll need to check that where it is as compared to center position on the wheels compared to steering arm. The power steering seems adequate for just daily driving, but its weak at stopped positions. Not adequate for off road, but enough for getting out around.
Also... it sounds like the throw out bearing is squeaking.
Something for later I guess.
I did a bit of clean up on the weekend and tightening bolts/checking fluids, and started mounting the rear quarter panel water bladder I picked up used in Texas. Debating if I should add some padding or deadening in the quarter around or beneath it.
Finally the rubber, ya, they sound like a turbo prop taking off, maybe not as bad as the mud grapplers but loud, and they vibrate. They kind of suck. I'm going to be looking to replace one or some, and debating about alternative brands in similar size.
I heard pitbulls are hard to get a hold of, I heard the Irok radials are pretty good compared to bias. Also debating terra grapplers and Hercules MT's which seem to be unobtanium. I'm planning to do a long trip in June and would be wise to find some better rubber before that. These may get studded eventually and become a winter set.
Also, brakes are slightly better, locked up the rears on gravel but the fronts are soft. (Need to play with proportioning valve)
I think I need to try getting more air out up front. Maybe bleed/vacuum the front calipers and try bleeding on a side hill to get any more air worked out.
So, after tightening a ton of crap, steering components included (I'm a dummy) it handles so-so.
I mean, it is on unevenly worn 42" Irok's right? But the steering tracks fairly straight for what it is, I think I will need to do another tape measure alignment. 1st gear on the NV4500 finally seems not too low for the truck. I was using second off the line with my 38's before as it was low/short at the stop lights and was throwing in 2nd at like 15km/hr or something. Low range seems adequate with the 4.11's and t-case stock gearing, but the Cummins is torquey enough at idle.
One of the knuckles seems like the new ball joints don't seat all the way in, the one outer shaft is not quite centered, not sure what to make of it, was hoping it would settle or seat in after driving around the neighborhood. Might need to order new ball joints and take it apart, although the ones in are brand new.
I'm going to add in hydraulic (ram) assist. Ordered a tube clamp this morning (1.75"), need to find a hydraulic ram. It looks like I have about 6.75" of travel, so I'll look for a 7", but might go with an 8" ram and try and figure out adding shim(s).
The tires drag on the radius arms first, so I have an audible feedback as to when I'm over steering it.
Handling: not bad, after tightening things up the steering is fairly responsive, no death wobble. I will need to pull the steering box to tap, and may shift the arm a spline or two. I'm using the stock superduty steering drag link parts, and would like just a couple more threads where the "turnbuckle style " link is between the TRE's on that. My steering wheel is also flipped, so I'll need to check that where it is as compared to center position on the wheels compared to steering arm. The power steering seems adequate for just daily driving, but its weak at stopped positions. Not adequate for off road, but enough for getting out around.
Also... it sounds like the throw out bearing is squeaking.
Something for later I guess.
I did a bit of clean up on the weekend and tightening bolts/checking fluids, and started mounting the rear quarter panel water bladder I picked up used in Texas. Debating if I should add some padding or deadening in the quarter around or beneath it.
Finally the rubber, ya, they sound like a turbo prop taking off, maybe not as bad as the mud grapplers but loud, and they vibrate. They kind of suck. I'm going to be looking to replace one or some, and debating about alternative brands in similar size.
I heard pitbulls are hard to get a hold of, I heard the Irok radials are pretty good compared to bias. Also debating terra grapplers and Hercules MT's which seem to be unobtanium. I'm planning to do a long trip in June and would be wise to find some better rubber before that. These may get studded eventually and become a winter set.
Also, brakes are slightly better, locked up the rears on gravel but the fronts are soft. (Need to play with proportioning valve)
I think I need to try getting more air out up front. Maybe bleed/vacuum the front calipers and try bleeding on a side hill to get any more air worked out.
Here's a list of parts I'm putting together for the set-up:
6" or 8" ram (probably getting from a club member)
3 916-1436 1/4" X 36" 1/4 NPTM X 1/I HYD HOSE 22.05
1 9-5000-4-4 1/4 X 1/4 NPTF COUPLER 0.95
2 9-5406-P-4 1/4" NPT PLUG 0.72
2 9-6900-6-4 SAE 6M x 1/4 NPTF SWIVEL 3.38
2 9-1503-4-4 1/4 NPTM x 1/4 NPTF 45 S 5.90
Front Range Off-Road knuckle stud kit
1.25x.25 wall tie and relay rods
Mounts to connect ram to tie rod and axle housing
FLX-4110 cooler
Here's a list of parts that might help with the hydro.
From this thread that could also be helpful, Hydro Assist Threads - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hydro-assist-threads.691492/
6" or 8" ram (probably getting from a club member)
3 916-1436 1/4" X 36" 1/4 NPTM X 1/I HYD HOSE 22.05
1 9-5000-4-4 1/4 X 1/4 NPTF COUPLER 0.95
2 9-5406-P-4 1/4" NPT PLUG 0.72
2 9-6900-6-4 SAE 6M x 1/4 NPTF SWIVEL 3.38
2 9-1503-4-4 1/4 NPTM x 1/4 NPTF 45 S 5.90
Front Range Off-Road knuckle stud kit
1.25x.25 wall tie and relay rods
Mounts to connect ram to tie rod and axle housing
FLX-4110 cooler
Here's a list of parts that might help with the hydro.
From this thread that could also be helpful, Hydro Assist Threads - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hydro-assist-threads.691492/
- Thread starter
- #147
Thanks Dood!
Picked up some other parts today, including ram and fittings. I think I'll try and find a steering box rebuild kit too before I tear into that.
There's a pretty good industrial hose place across the street, so whenever I get it built I'll get them to assemble the two lengths.
With the size tires your running you might want to upgrade to the 105 sector shaft and pitman arm while your in there.
@peacesells63 sells sector shaft upgrade kit that includes the reseal kit at the best price I have seen, or he may just sell you the rebuild/ reseal kit separately.
@peacesells63 sells sector shaft upgrade kit that includes the reseal kit at the best price I have seen, or he may just sell you the rebuild/ reseal kit separately.
- Thread starter
- #149
He's out of kits, I think I have what I need with exception to the hoses. Will start on the install of the ram assist soon.
Drove it to work today, the good news is that you can turn the steering wheel with 42" tires on snow/ice. Bad news is my front end needs to be bled a bit better, front brakes, although all new...kind of suck. Backs lock up fine though. Luckily I can gear down to slow down.
Edit: Bled the brakes at lunch (vacuum pump'd them) they are acceptable now, not great but enough, will have some tuning later.
Ram was $133,
Spherical end $27 (M20x1.5 thread)
Cut end and spun on lathe (threaded) $100
Bolts $14
1.75" Tube clamp (TMR) $75 ish.
Fititings $20 ish (1/4" NPT elbow to JIC male x4)
Not sure when, but I'll fabricate mounts on axle, and then pull the steering box to tap it. Then get hoses made.
Drove it to work today, the good news is that you can turn the steering wheel with 42" tires on snow/ice. Bad news is my front end needs to be bled a bit better, front brakes, although all new...
Edit: Bled the brakes at lunch (vacuum pump'd them) they are acceptable now, not great but enough, will have some tuning later.
Ram was $133,
Spherical end $27 (M20x1.5 thread)
Cut end and spun on lathe (threaded) $100
Bolts $14
1.75" Tube clamp (TMR) $75 ish.
Fititings $20 ish (1/4" NPT elbow to JIC male x4)
Not sure when, but I'll fabricate mounts on axle, and then pull the steering box to tap it. Then get hoses made.
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- Thread starter
- #150
I had a loud throw out bearing, and a completely pooched pilot bearing. Dropped the trans on the weekend and swapped that.
Got to work yesterday and my steering felt sloppy…..
I had the bracket for the lower side of the track bar welded to the radius arm bracket. The slop was from cracks developing through the radius arm bracket where the other one was attached to it. I ground out the crack weld it added a 5/16 washer (welded in) to thicken the structure where it was starting to bend through the radius arm bolt hole. Then I attached the top corner of the track bar bracket to the knuckle and welded across between either side of the radius arm brackets to reinforce it. It should be much more resilient now, will clean up and repaint later.
The pilot bearing was nothing more than a pile of black goop and steel, I had to remove the outer shell of the old pilot bearing with the dye grinder.
Gotta work the bugs out on anything that has a lot of custom work I guess. At least I caught it early
Got to work yesterday and my steering felt sloppy…..
I had the bracket for the lower side of the track bar welded to the radius arm bracket. The slop was from cracks developing through the radius arm bracket where the other one was attached to it. I ground out the crack weld it added a 5/16 washer (welded in) to thicken the structure where it was starting to bend through the radius arm bolt hole. Then I attached the top corner of the track bar bracket to the knuckle and welded across between either side of the radius arm brackets to reinforce it. It should be much more resilient now, will clean up and repaint later.
The pilot bearing was nothing more than a pile of black goop and steel, I had to remove the outer shell of the old pilot bearing with the dye grinder.
Gotta work the bugs out on anything that has a lot of custom work I guess. At least I caught it early
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- Thread starter
- #151
A little update,
Planning on going to Gambler 500 in June in Oregon with a bud in this. Gonna be running a different set of rubber, 40's on 20's for the trip. I understand this vehicle is overbuilt, but we can still have fun pulling people out and collecting waste.
I definitely need to get the wiring issues cleaned up (non working fuel gauge, CDL, head light and my electric rad fan sorted. Also need to get the steering ram, and I want to swap a ball joint.
Some days I drive the 4runner to work and others the 80, its about 15 miles (25km) each way, and with the Iroks I avoid high speed routes, the lack of sway bars make it feel less than ideal for high speed evasive maneuvers, also the steering is underpowered, I noticed that while hitting the breaks moderately hard and trying to turn, the forward body roll/weight puts more forces on the steering than it wants.
Also have a set of FZJ fenders that I plan to adapt, they are a little wider than the FJ80 fenders. Gonna try and get them modified and sprayed with bedliner, hopefully avoid some fender/mudflap tickets.
Edit: checked my fuel mileage the other day, even with the 42’s it’s still better than the 07 4Runner but a good margin. Gotta run a few more tanks through it and get an average and make sure my Speedo calibration estimate is good, but it seemed about 11 litres/100km. Mind you that’s city driving mostly under 60km/hr
Planning on going to Gambler 500 in June in Oregon with a bud in this. Gonna be running a different set of rubber, 40's on 20's for the trip. I understand this vehicle is overbuilt, but we can still have fun pulling people out and collecting waste.
I definitely need to get the wiring issues cleaned up (non working fuel gauge, CDL, head light and my electric rad fan sorted. Also need to get the steering ram, and I want to swap a ball joint.
Some days I drive the 4runner to work and others the 80, its about 15 miles (25km) each way, and with the Iroks I avoid high speed routes, the lack of sway bars make it feel less than ideal for high speed evasive maneuvers, also the steering is underpowered, I noticed that while hitting the breaks moderately hard and trying to turn, the forward body roll/weight puts more forces on the steering than it wants.
Also have a set of FZJ fenders that I plan to adapt, they are a little wider than the FJ80 fenders. Gonna try and get them modified and sprayed with bedliner, hopefully avoid some fender/mudflap tickets.
Edit: checked my fuel mileage the other day, even with the 42’s it’s still better than the 07 4Runner but a good margin. Gotta run a few more tanks through it and get an average and make sure my Speedo calibration estimate is good, but it seemed about 11 litres/100km. Mind you that’s city driving mostly under 60km/hr
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- Thread starter
- #152
A little teaser. Selling/pending my old 39.5” iroks to fund these other tires. Patriot 40x15.5R20 M/T’s they should run better on the pavement than uneven work iroks for the trip next month.
Also been working on ram assist, hope to have that done by the end of the week.
Had some light rubbing on steering components, bent the steering shock bracket so the shock body doesn’t rub, modifying and painting things a bit.
These 20x12 wheels were pretty cheap, not excited about them asthetically but maybe I’ll paint them and feel better about it. They make 17" sequioa wheels look small though.
Also been working on ram assist, hope to have that done by the end of the week.
Had some light rubbing on steering components, bent the steering shock bracket so the shock body doesn’t rub, modifying and painting things a bit.
These 20x12 wheels were pretty cheap, not excited about them asthetically but maybe I’ll paint them and feel better about it. They make 17" sequioa wheels look small though.
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- Thread starter
- #153
A couple more pictures, reference to the 39.5” iroks on the DC-1 wheels in first pics, and the 42’s on my truck. These have a fairly aggressive pattern, the side lugs have significant tread void. There’s hardly any pics I could find if the 40” patriots on the web, so I’ll plug this thread with some more pics
^^^^^ ThisNow that you've done that work to the steering stabilizer mounts.....with a hydraulic assist cylinder, there is no real function for that shock.
- Thread starter
- #156
Fawk.. never thought of that.. hahaha.Now that you've done that work to the steering stabilizer mounts.....with a hydraulic assist cylinder, there is no real function for that shock.
Edit: got one tire on last night, almost complete with steering:
Had to post one more with the new rubber. These tires/wheels look like something off a hotwheels car. It should drive so much differently with the new rubber and steering. I’m probably gonna replace the rear pinion seal and swap out a front ball joint before driving it also.
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- Thread starter
- #157
Made it to Redmond Oregon, had issues with my fuel transfer Val e, it was doing the opposite of what I wanted and ran my auxiliary tank flat, then I bypassed it with rigged up housing and the return line pumped all the fuel to the auxiliary tank and ran the main empty (my gauge isn’t working)
Anyway, broke down about 4-5 times and had to prime the fuel system and bleed injectors but we persevered. Also have a bit of a vibe from the rear, probably need a drive shaft balanced
Anyway, broke down about 4-5 times and had to prime the fuel system and bleed injectors but we persevered. Also have a bit of a vibe from the rear, probably need a drive shaft balanced
Where were you the freak show
- Thread starter
- #160
Got off to lake Paulina south of Bend and to the lava butte, maybe run some trails in a bit. Seen some other 80’s here but haven’t chatted any of the owners up yet. Maybe hit a trail and do some garbage pickup in a bit. Raining hard today though
