The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread
- Thread starter ForealBoreal
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I am curious how this is done. and I'm wondering if injectors need to be matched to the pump and what's involved to get the Yanmar pump to work for the road use
Deff need higher flow +30/+40 injectors
Around 170-180cc should hit the 300bhp mark
has anyone here flipped their star wheel over to give you more spring pressure?
also, what is the average flowrate on a stock 1hd-t Ve pump? what is the maximum can the stock pump do?
also, what is the average flowrate on a stock 1hd-t Ve pump? what is the maximum can the stock pump do?
Anyone running the spacer/washer with there fuel pins? I know a lot of Cummins guys with VE pumps just scrap the spacers.
hey guys. i’m installing a new zeal power pin and found that when i took my old pin out it had these spacers. are they supposed to be there? the white and copper one. (that’s the new pin though)
it doesn’t seem to want to seat deep enough to let me turn the pin once it’s in. i’m assuming i need to turn it 180 degrees from the insertion groove so the follower pin is on the ramp with is towards the front of the pump right?
well i didnt put them back it and it seems to run right so i’ll leave them out. and to answer my own question yes i rotated the pin 180 to point the ramp to the front of the pump and it works so it must be right
my pump had the star wheel set for 20psi boost when it was rebuilt last summer. i left that where it is. i did turn the allan screw 1/4 turn on the top plate as the cam plate was set as high as possible. this will increase my off boost fuel correct? i’m learning as i go and will keep playing a little. i just want to make sure i’m understanding what i’m doing. and yes i have a pre turbo egt.
it doesn’t seem to want to seat deep enough to let me turn the pin once it’s in. i’m assuming i need to turn it 180 degrees from the insertion groove so the follower pin is on the ramp with is towards the front of the pump right?
well i didnt put them back it and it seems to run right so i’ll leave them out. and to answer my own question yes i rotated the pin 180 to point the ramp to the front of the pump and it works so it must be right
my pump had the star wheel set for 20psi boost when it was rebuilt last summer. i left that where it is. i did turn the allan screw 1/4 turn on the top plate as the cam plate was set as high as possible. this will increase my off boost fuel correct? i’m learning as i go and will keep playing a little. i just want to make sure i’m understanding what i’m doing. and yes i have a pre turbo egt.
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most people do without the spacers to allow more travel more downward travel
this is common practice not to run spacers in the Cummins world as there VE pumps similar to ours.
I have a trundles fuel pin with their boost cap. it came with a single spacer I don't run it. I adjust my spring tension accordingly to limit my max fuel if you need more then run the spacer.
this is common practice not to run spacers in the Cummins world as there VE pumps similar to ours.
I have a trundles fuel pin with their boost cap. it came with a single spacer I don't run it. I adjust my spring tension accordingly to limit my max fuel if you need more then run the spacer.
with spacers do they run a lower spring tension to get it to fuel more early but then block the pin from going into the over fueling zone?
Some goodies from the east have arrived. 
I'm looking into a lift pump, I contacted Trundles Automotive because they have a bracket for 1hd-t they are actually putting together a kit with a wire harness and pump. I'm excited to see what they come up with.
Installed yet? How's it doing so far?
Hey everyone, long time creeper, first time poster on this thread. I finally start digging into my injection pump (long time coming). I got significant white smoke on cold starts below 30° F and/or when I’m above like 9,000 feet in elevation it’s blowing white the entire time I’m on the trail. Overall I believe the pump is over fueling in general and definitely for the elevation I live at, around 5,600 (Colorado). i pulled the aneroid pin out today and it looks like an aftermarket pin. The slope is completely uniform regardless of turning it left or right. I have a factory pin that I can modify and install or I can just keep using this one. What I’m trying to accomplish today is to bring the white smoke levels down and the smell of exhaust is potent with fuel all of the time and borderline unbearable. Again, the white smoke only happens when it’s a cold start in freezing temps and when at very high elevation. Generally if I ride it hard it blows a lot of black smoke until around 2000 rpm when it starts to blow cleaner. Will replacing the aneroid pin with the factory one even solve this over fueling issue? Or should I leave the aftermarket pin and mess with the main fuel screw and reduce fuel that way? The car is very sluggish in 1st gear when starting uphill as well. Tons of black smoke unless I ride the clutch really hard when starting from a stop on a hill. Other than that egts are acceptable, boosting around 20 psi with a kinugawa TD05H-18G turbo and a full 3 inch exhaust, and with a intercooler of course.
Being that it’s sluggish out of 1st I would doubt it’s over fueled at and off idle. The white smoke you are seeing could be and issue of injection timing at that altitude. If you decrease fuel with the pin or the fuel screw it will only get more sluggish. I would look into checking my timing assuming pump and injectors are in good working order. Especially since EGT is under control. Further leading to it not having too much fuel.
Edit: I missed the black smoke sentence. It may be worth trying the new pin before messing with the fuel screw. But either would be a good option to reduce the black smoke. I would play with pin and spring tension first and record everything I do in case I wanted to return back to where I started. If that fails to achieve the goal go to main fuel screw. Timing would still be on my list of things to check.
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Okay well i would say EGTs are acceptable but not necessarily under control. Climbing big long mountain passes in Colorado I do see around 1400° F and have seen over 1500 before. Whenever it starts to get that high I typically down shift, slow down, and continue chugging along until it drops down to around a sustained 1200-1250. There’s 0 shortage of power on hill climbs and can honestly take even the tallest and longest of mountain passes around 70-75 mph with the EGTs being the only thing holding it back. I get tons of black smoke when I floor it under 2,000 rpm and it definitely “rolls coal.” The smoke is only white when there are freezing temps and when at high elevation. But the smell of fuel in the exhaust is present any time the windows are down. I work around alot of diesel vehicles and this is probably the strongest fuel smelliest exhaust I’ve ever come across .
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Does it splutter and stumble when you're seeing white smoke?
When you say it smells of fuel, does it smell off raw diesel? Or just rich diesel fumes?
They shouldn't look like it's rolling coal, but a bit of dark smoke is normal if you're accelerating hard.
When you see high EGTs, what sort of RPM are you seeing?
Pushing them hard when they are dropping RPM will push EGTs up. Better to be in a lower gear and let it rev more
The old white smoke on start up issue, very commen. I couldn't see where you said which engine you had? Also do you still have the ACSD? 99% of the time on a healthy engine this issue is timing related.
What I will say is I have a 1hdt with quite a lot of fuel turned into it. I don’t roll coal but I do have the dark puff mudgudgeon is talking about. I also smoke white at high altitude and in cold temps until it warms up. I have never been able to solve the white smoke even with new injectors and a rebuilt pump. Most things I have read about the 1hdt is it can be a Smokey engine within reason. So the white smoke I don’t believe is tied to your high EGT and black smoke issue but I could be wrong.
