Builds The new FJ 73 Build
- Thread starter Alex gee
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #63
Made up some adaptor plates to move the axle , just in case i couldnt drill the perches with it still somewhat on the car.
Was able to move the whole axle over to one side by turning the wheel full lock, and sliding the front shaft out.
Moved the axle forward 32mm,
Redrilled the perches to 14mm.
Redrilled the lowers to 16mm.
Also trimmed a fair chunk from the rear edge of the arch.
Painted and put in new bolts on the wheels,, nice and central on the arches now, very happy.
Was able to move the whole axle over to one side by turning the wheel full lock, and sliding the front shaft out.
Moved the axle forward 32mm,
Redrilled the perches to 14mm.
Redrilled the lowers to 16mm.
Also trimmed a fair chunk from the rear edge of the arch.
Painted and put in new bolts on the wheels,, nice and central on the arches now, very happy.
- Thread starter
- #64
Finished off the rear drawers, went with magna latches for the draws, automatic locking on close , they work very well.
Lockable too if needs be.
on open they stay recessed and on closing the magnet pulls the pin closed, very tidy.
Decided on something different from the usual carpet route and did some black white grey Camoflage.
Flexing quite nicely with the new wheels, still got and inch or so off the bump stop.No rubbing anywhere.
Rears tucked with still more room.
Lockable too if needs be.
on open they stay recessed and on closing the magnet pulls the pin closed, very tidy.
Decided on something different from the usual carpet route and did some black white grey Camoflage.
Flexing quite nicely with the new wheels, still got and inch or so off the bump stop.No rubbing anywhere.
Rears tucked with still more room.
- Thread starter
- #67
Bending station.32 NB medium or 3.2mm
Aluminium shims/packers, stops the pipe getting dinged, not the best by any means but can get you out of trouble.
Doesnt look like much, but getting two tubes the same with multiple bends in a real challenge.
Ends up something like this.
Aluminium shims/packers, stops the pipe getting dinged, not the best by any means but can get you out of trouble.
Doesnt look like much, but getting two tubes the same with multiple bends in a real challenge.
Ends up something like this.
- Thread starter
- #68
Taking advantage of all the rain, got out this morning.
The wheels are amazing, very happy with them even at 20PSI,
Travelling solo so a little tamm but the confidence in the vehicle is rising,
Didnt miss a beat,
Even talked my way out of getting defected by the plod, Winning.
Amazing rubber,
poser
The wheels are amazing, very happy with them even at 20PSI,
Travelling solo so a little tamm but the confidence in the vehicle is rising,
Didnt miss a beat,
Even talked my way out of getting defected by the plod, Winning.
Amazing rubber,
poser
- Thread starter
- #69
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="Landcruiser fj73 Simex Centerpede 36.5's - YouTube" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
- Thread starter
- #70
After the run in with the plod yesterday , thought it would be wise to cover the tyres a little.
Starting with some garden edging, alot of heating and shaping, some sikaflex and paint.
Didnt even have to mask off cause its so dirty.
Starting with some garden edging, alot of heating and shaping, some sikaflex and paint.
Didnt even have to mask off cause its so dirty.
- Thread starter
- #71
Had a moment last week on a steep hill trying to wrestle between the brake and clutch and non existant handbrake.
Due to the handbrake being so rubbish I decided to install a B&M line lock.
A line lock is a solenoid which is placed inline in the front brake line.
It works by holding pressure to the front brakes, you put your foot on the brakes, push the button ,which I've mounted on the gear lever, remove your foot and the locker hold the front brakes on until you release the button.
They are big in the drag and burnout scene but work extremely well as a hill hold.
Could help myself and had to do a few test runs, works so well, and releases as soon as you leave the button,
Sectioned the front hard lines, reused the lower long section and got the top end rebuilt.
All new double flare and flare nuts,bent up the top hose.
activation button.
Green signal LED telling you its locked, top right
Hidden down there.
While i was at it flushed the brake system, to say it was dirty was an understatment,
not much sediment,
Due to the handbrake being so rubbish I decided to install a B&M line lock.
A line lock is a solenoid which is placed inline in the front brake line.
It works by holding pressure to the front brakes, you put your foot on the brakes, push the button ,which I've mounted on the gear lever, remove your foot and the locker hold the front brakes on until you release the button.
They are big in the drag and burnout scene but work extremely well as a hill hold.
Could help myself and had to do a few test runs, works so well, and releases as soon as you leave the button,
Sectioned the front hard lines, reused the lower long section and got the top end rebuilt.
All new double flare and flare nuts,bent up the top hose.
activation button.
Green signal LED telling you its locked, top right
Hidden down there.
While i was at it flushed the brake system, to say it was dirty was an understatment,
not much sediment,
- Thread starter
- #72
Had another bit of flex test to see what I've gained,
From last time I have an additional 245mm at the front guard.
Tucking
Added some extensions to the front bar to guard the front of the guards, i fely a little exposed on the last outing.
From last time I have an additional 245mm at the front guard.
Tucking
Added some extensions to the front bar to guard the front of the guards, i fely a little exposed on the last outing.
Good work mate. What flaring tool did you use for the double flares. I'm at the point of fitting brake and fuel lines at the moment. Looking to buy good kit but $600 is a bit hard to swallow.
Hydraulic Line Double Flaring Tool Kit T&E Tools 7201 NEW fuel, air con, brake
Hydraulic Line Double Flaring Tool Kit T&E Tools 7201 NEW fuel, air con, brake
- Thread starter
- #74
I was about to buy one then the lad at the local Bursons said they had one and would flare them for me for free.
Turned out we did a new top hose as it was already bent and wouldn't fit in the press.
They had this style. Super easy and efficient. Pretty pricey though.
Would like to get a set up as I really like the hard line route.
Turned out we did a new top hose as it was already bent and wouldn't fit in the press.
They had this style. Super easy and efficient. Pretty pricey though.
Would like to get a set up as I really like the hard line route.
- Thread starter
- #76
Swapped out the rear indicators for some ADR approved units, these are the smallest ones on the market and are pretty tidy,
They came with rubber gaskets for a flush mount , but i had to make a piece as the groove was to small for the bumper material.
Didnt really like them sitting out so far and pointing down so much.
Scrapped that idea and built some buckets to recess them in,
Got the laser level out to get them spot on, buckets set.
Welded , smoothed
Tail , Stop and indicator, very tidy little package.
They came with rubber gaskets for a flush mount , but i had to make a piece as the groove was to small for the bumper material.
Didnt really like them sitting out so far and pointing down so much.
Scrapped that idea and built some buckets to recess them in,
Got the laser level out to get them spot on, buckets set.
Welded , smoothed
Tail , Stop and indicator, very tidy little package.
- Thread starter
- #78
Fitted up the factory Transfer case bashplate , and thought its not really going to stop any major damage.
So built one that would,
Main focus was the leading adge of the case and the drive shaft uni.
Came up with something like this.
black
Mounts from the Gearbox cross member and some tabs welded to the sliders,
Pretty flush with the cross member.
Connects everything together now< forming a nice sub frame.
\
Have ordered some new shocks Bilstein 12" travel 5125's.
So wanted to do some more calculations to see how much work they will be to fit and the gains that are to be had.
Removed the rear shocks to have a measure and as i suspected they were at rest 30mm of full extension. So not helping the rear droop at all.
With the car full flex on the fork I measured all corners,with the front shocks in but the rears removed.
With the front up I got 480mm and 640mm on the front and 580mm and 470mm on the rear.
With the Rear lifted I measured 640mm and 450mm on the front and 600mm and 500mm out back. with the rear up i got within 25mm of the front bump stop.
The new shocks i have ordered and eye to eye for the rear and eye to pin for the front, I ordered the softer rate for the rears at 170/60 and 255/70 for the fronts.
Now the numbers for the new shocks are Fronts 441mm compressed and 754mm exteneded and th rears 441mm and 746mm.
I calculated the mid points of the travel to be somewhere around 600mm on both the front and the rear.
So at this stage we are looking good and have more droop available so should be very intersting with the front sorted.
Will look at new front shock towers and will do a new rear hoop to carry both the rear shocks on the rear edge on the axle and centralise them a fair way to aid flip flop.
tucking , and not rubbing anywhere, will set the bump stop somewhere around here.
Started building some high clearance leaf mounts that will rid the large factory hanger and also make it possible to mount both the rears on the rear edge of the axle.
So built one that would,
Main focus was the leading adge of the case and the drive shaft uni.
Came up with something like this.
black
Mounts from the Gearbox cross member and some tabs welded to the sliders,
Pretty flush with the cross member.
Connects everything together now< forming a nice sub frame.
Have ordered some new shocks Bilstein 12" travel 5125's.
So wanted to do some more calculations to see how much work they will be to fit and the gains that are to be had.
Removed the rear shocks to have a measure and as i suspected they were at rest 30mm of full extension. So not helping the rear droop at all.
With the car full flex on the fork I measured all corners,with the front shocks in but the rears removed.
With the front up I got 480mm and 640mm on the front and 580mm and 470mm on the rear.
With the Rear lifted I measured 640mm and 450mm on the front and 600mm and 500mm out back. with the rear up i got within 25mm of the front bump stop.
The new shocks i have ordered and eye to eye for the rear and eye to pin for the front, I ordered the softer rate for the rears at 170/60 and 255/70 for the fronts.
Now the numbers for the new shocks are Fronts 441mm compressed and 754mm exteneded and th rears 441mm and 746mm.
I calculated the mid points of the travel to be somewhere around 600mm on both the front and the rear.
So at this stage we are looking good and have more droop available so should be very intersting with the front sorted.
Will look at new front shock towers and will do a new rear hoop to carry both the rear shocks on the rear edge on the axle and centralise them a fair way to aid flip flop.
tucking , and not rubbing anywhere, will set the bump stop somewhere around here.
Started building some high clearance leaf mounts that will rid the large factory hanger and also make it possible to mount both the rears on the rear edge of the axle.
maat
yeah nah maybe
loving this build. keep it up mate
