Builds "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Tank5
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #43
Things have slowed down a little. I am still waiting for some flap discs to finish removing welds on the frame and prep suspension brackets.
I did make some plates to box part of the rear frame. I used a hole saw to cut halve circles to provide some stock looking transition between the inner frame and the plate.
I did make some plates to box part of the rear frame. I used a hole saw to cut halve circles to provide some stock looking transition between the inner frame and the plate.
Last edited:
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #44
I plan to move the rear axle back about 7 inches. This places it right under the shock mount tube. l will remove it when I get to that part. The problem is the 45 frame continually widens as it goes back, the 37s will hit the frame if moved back 7 inches.
I decided to cut a tiny wedge out of the horizontal sections of the frame rail just after the shock mount tube. I then pulled the two ends in so they went strait back rather than angle out. It worked well and I added some small plates to span the widges I cut.
There should be room for the 37s now.
I decided to cut a tiny wedge out of the horizontal sections of the frame rail just after the shock mount tube. I then pulled the two ends in so they went strait back rather than angle out. It worked well and I added some small plates to span the widges I cut.
There should be room for the 37s now.
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #45
I could use some of your thoughts on this.
I am looking at the front crossmember which has been modified by a PO to fit a gm style power steering box. I am going with a 80 PS box. Trying to return it to stock looking would be a tough.
I am considering cleaning up the pass through and using it to run the winch cables through. I could also just clean it up some and leave it alone. It bothers me though since it be so visible.
Maybe the PS cooler lines could run through.
Thoughts? How do I make good use of this? I don't really want to cut the crossmember out and replace it, not off the table though.
I am looking at the front crossmember which has been modified by a PO to fit a gm style power steering box. I am going with a 80 PS box. Trying to return it to stock looking would be a tough.
I am considering cleaning up the pass through and using it to run the winch cables through. I could also just clean it up some and leave it alone. It bothers me though since it be so visible.
Maybe the PS cooler lines could run through.
Thoughts? How do I make good use of this? I don't really want to cut the crossmember out and replace it, not off the table though.
I would keep the Saginaw steering
If you're only concerned with aesthetics weld a circular shaped piece of plate in the hole on the front side. Once it's painted it will barely be noticeable. No harm in leaving the welded in tube or need to return to stock.
I'm not familiar with the 80s. Isn't the Saginaw hole on the 45 frame where the center arm needs to bolt?
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #55
I finished cleaning up the front crossmember and removed the frame horn plates too. I went with what @samc2447 suggested and cut a circle plate to fill the hole left from the saginaw conversion. Welded it up and feel like it turned out well enough. I am going to go with it.
I will add some new support plates to the inside frame horns but I am going to do it differently than what was there.
I will add some new support plates to the inside frame horns but I am going to do it differently than what was there.
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #56
Getting closer to mocking up the rear suspension. Since I am moving the rear axle back I decided to add some support to the rear frame. This will also give me more space to mount the spring buckets. I am almost out of welding gas so I tacked them in place but couldn't complete the rest of the welding. Having them in place will at least allowed me to start mocking up the spring buckets and crossmembers.
I tacked in the rear support with the panhard bracket on it. I don't think I can use it. The cross member ends are offset vertically. This creates a problem for mounting the driverside spring bucket.
This maybe on hold until I can pick up some meterials to build the rear supports.
I tacked in the rear support with the panhard bracket on it. I don't think I can use it. The cross member ends are offset vertically. This creates a problem for mounting the driverside spring bucket.
This maybe on hold until I can pick up some meterials to build the rear supports.
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #57
I hope to get a chance to fill my welding gas next week, so figured I would try to use up what I have working on the rear upper control arm crossmember. I needed to narrow it in the center 4 inches to match the axle control arm mounts.
The 4 inch section I cut out was repurposed as a sleeve inside the crossmember to bridge the cut. I had to narrow it both directions to make it fit inside, it worked out well. I also drilled two more 1 1/4 in holes on each side of the cut, so I could weld more to the sleeve.
I was lucky I got enough good tack welds on it before I ran out of wire. I knew the gas was low but I didn't realize the wire was low. I thought I had another role but is was fluxcore and I don't like using it.
This is as far as I got.
The 4 inch section I cut out was repurposed as a sleeve inside the crossmember to bridge the cut. I had to narrow it both directions to make it fit inside, it worked out well. I also drilled two more 1 1/4 in holes on each side of the cut, so I could weld more to the sleeve.
I was lucky I got enough good tack welds on it before I ran out of wire. I knew the gas was low but I didn't realize the wire was low. I thought I had another role but is was fluxcore and I don't like using it.
This is as far as I got.
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #58
I started playing more with the placement of the front spring and shock mounts. I intentionally left part of the frame attached to the brackets because it wraps over and under the frame at the spring mount. I expect it will provid a little more support to the frame and help align the brackets on each side.
My brackets came from a later 80 as they have the bump stop mounts attached under the spring mount. I left them on again to provide support and I used them to aling the bumpstop centers on the frame and brackets to get close to the expected stock 45 axle position. The brackets are placed perfectly to allow for the right amout of room to mount the 80 power steering box.
My brackets came from a later 80 as they have the bump stop mounts attached under the spring mount. I left them on again to provide support and I used them to aling the bumpstop centers on the frame and brackets to get close to the expected stock 45 axle position. The brackets are placed perfectly to allow for the right amout of room to mount the 80 power steering box.
I would consider removing and replacing the front crossmember with something more substantial than the stock design. My thought is the spring buckets are going to increase torsional loads on the frame rails compared to leaf springs and your in the midst of fab work anyway. So I would upgrade it. I think it will strengthen the frame a lot.
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #60
I have been considering welding the front of the frame along the seem for the inner and outer frame. Several of the rivets have been cut or removed on the front half and I think it is needed to maintain strength. I have also been thinking of welding the front crossmember at the frame on the top and bottom. I like the stock look of it though, so I really don't want to remove it. I will be adding the steering support attached to the panhard bracket from the 80 which will add more support to the front of the frame.
