Build "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta
- Thread starter Tank5
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
I really wanted to see where I ended with the front axle placement. I loosely assembled the front clip. I think it turned out nicely considering those are 37" tires.
The whole truck is just sitting on the springs, no shocks, so it is leaning to the driver side some as it sits. Looks like the tire edge will extend about 2 inches past the fenders. I like it!
The whole truck is just sitting on the springs, no shocks, so it is leaning to the driver side some as it sits. Looks like the tire edge will extend about 2 inches past the fenders. I like it!
Any tech tips on moving parts of the body? Are you using a crane, or does the lift also work like a gantry?
- Thread starter
- #84
I use the 2 post lift to lift the cab and bed off as much as possible and transfer it to a wheeled dolly. Pictured under the bed, I stuck 2x4s to allow me to lift the bed off with the lift. Then I roll the dolly underneith.
I have used my engine hoist as well with straps and shackles.
The dolly works really well even on my compacted gravel driveway. It is the same as what lowes and HD use, mine came from a furniture store that was going out of business.
Nothing technical, it just helps to have good tools.
- Thread starter
- #85
Now that I have weighted the front suspension I can see that the front frame side panhard bracket won't work. It hangs way too low. Glad I only tacked ot in.
My question is how important is the brace/stabalizer bar that connects the panhard bracket m to the opposite side of the frame? l could recreate it but if I don't have too it opens up access from underneith.
I am looking at ordering a ruffstuff inside frame panhard bracket. It has three options for mounting the bar and two of them are higher than the stock mount pictured.
My question is how important is the brace/stabalizer bar that connects the panhard bracket m to the opposite side of the frame? l could recreate it but if I don't have too it opens up access from underneith.
I am looking at ordering a ruffstuff inside frame panhard bracket. It has three options for mounting the bar and two of them are higher than the stock mount pictured.
Isn't it most desirable to have the panhard as parallel to the axle as possible, thus minimizing the lateral movement of the arc of the articulating axle, and its influence on the steering via drag link? If the panhard was mounted way up in the frame and drag link was near horizontal / parallel to axle, wouldn't every compression bump turn the knuckles a bit?
How is the clearance of the drivetrain in the transmission hump, for regular use, and for service events when the hump is removed?
How is the clearance of the drivetrain in the transmission hump, for regular use, and for service events when the hump is removed?
- Thread starter
- #87
I am of the understanding that the drag link and panhard need to be as level as possible. I have to move the panhard mount up at the frame to do that. It won't fit as is because it will hit the tie rod. I am using hellfire knuckles which moves the steering links up higher in front.
There seems to be clearance issues with the axle or oilpan. All is good in those areas so far.
I am just trying to decide if I can get ride of the brace.
There seems to be clearance issues with the axle or oilpan. All is good in those areas so far.
I am just trying to decide if I can get ride of the brace.
- Thread starter
- #88
I had a little time to work on this last night and tried trouble shooting the spring contact with the hellfire knuckle arms.
I cut the lower spring hat mounts off and started playing with the placement.
I moved them about 1/2 of an inch to the rear and 3/8 of an inch inboard. In this location their is no contact on the front side of the steering arm but the rear corner where the cone nut is located contact the spring just before full lock.
With the wheels pointed strait ahead the clearance looks ok but a little more wouldn't hurt.
I am thinking to eliminate the contact I will take the arms to a machine shop and have them cut a significant bevel along the upper inside edge of both arms. I am also considering removing the rear inside cone bolt and stud. Then have the top of the arm hole opened, so I can use a counter sunk bolt to hide the head.
I am going to give Ruff Stuff a call tomorrow to get their thoughts as
I cut the lower spring hat mounts off and started playing with the placement.
I moved them about 1/2 of an inch to the rear and 3/8 of an inch inboard. In this location their is no contact on the front side of the steering arm but the rear corner where the cone nut is located contact the spring just before full lock.
With the wheels pointed strait ahead the clearance looks ok but a little more wouldn't hurt.
I am thinking to eliminate the contact I will take the arms to a machine shop and have them cut a significant bevel along the upper inside edge of both arms. I am also considering removing the rear inside cone bolt and stud. Then have the top of the arm hole opened, so I can use a counter sunk bolt to hide the head.
I am going to give Ruff Stuff a call tomorrow to get their thoughts as
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I was wondering about the, 'Milk Truck.'
- Thread starter
- #90
I had to take a break from it to get some other projects done. I am still not done with the other stuff but they are on hold until parts arrive.
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mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Just stumbled onto this. Very impressive work, really like the use of factory metal where possible. Are you concerned with binding/rubbing on the front springs when under load and the wheel turned?
I assume the plan is to use a bellhousing from uzj105 to mate the h151? If so I'd love to hear some dimensions on it so I can compare to h42/55 bell housing.
I assume the plan is to use a bellhousing from uzj105 to mate the h151? If so I'd love to hear some dimensions on it so I can compare to h42/55 bell housing.
No such thing as a UZJ105 from Toyota. 105’s are only 1FZ-FE or 1HZ.
It would be a H151F from a base model GCC specification UZJ100.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Yes, thanks for the correction. Looking for dimensions/comparisons on the bell housing, before I spend a few hundred just to measure it. If not, no worries. I'll keep watching.
- Thread starter
- #94
I am sorry to dissapoint but I traded the h151 setuo in a deal to aquire a poverty pack 80. I don't have it to measure. I may still be able to help though, what measurements are you looking for?
I will be installing a 5 speed automatic out of a 100 series in the build now. I will might regret the decision but I am sure I can find another h151 if I hate the auto.
New 100 series H151F transmissions with bell housing are still available new from Toyota.
- Thread starter
- #96
I talked with the staff at ruffstuff today about removing material from the arms. Before I get to that I would like to mention that I have called them a few times to ask questions about their products and how I am using them for my application. Everytime they have been awesome! They were supper helpfull and took the time explain things work through my questions. They have been great to work with and their products have been awesome! I would highly recommend them.
In discussing removing some material to bevel the edge of the arm for my application (overlanding type use). They didn't think there would be an issue.
I removed the arms to take to a shop to have them modified. The arm are 1.25 inches thick, so very stout and they secured with 4 studs and two bolts. I am planning to run a bevel 3/4 inches from the top edge and a half inch in from the same edge. The bevel will cut right through the rear stud whole, so the plan will be to drill it out to accept a counter sunk bolt to match the other two counter sunk bolts in the center of the arm.
In discussing removing some material to bevel the edge of the arm for my application (overlanding type use). They didn't think there would be an issue.
I removed the arms to take to a shop to have them modified. The arm are 1.25 inches thick, so very stout and they secured with 4 studs and two bolts. I am planning to run a bevel 3/4 inches from the top edge and a half inch in from the same edge. The bevel will cut right through the rear stud whole, so the plan will be to drill it out to accept a counter sunk bolt to match the other two counter sunk bolts in the center of the arm.
- Thread starter
- #97
I read today that 70 series coils are narrower than 80 series coils and will fit on 80 series components. If the difference is significant it might be worth using them instead of the 80 springs to give me a little more room between spring and knuckle arms. I have been searching for front 70 series spring diameter measurements. The only reference I have found so far is on the forum and they said they are about 1/4 inch narrower. I would really li ke to get an actual measurement before I buy a set.
Does anyone know what the diameter is for 76/78/79 series front coils is? I might post up in the 70 series thread if I don't get an answer.
Does anyone know what the diameter is for 76/78/79 series front coils is? I might post up in the 70 series thread if I don't get an answer.
Tank5 , very nice work... I have a FJ45 that is on my list to start and restore it... So I am learning...
- Thread starter
- #100
Thanks for your kind words. If you are planni ng a restoration don't take all your notes from this thread. This 45 will be far from a restoration when done.
