Build "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta

[White Stripe]

I have been considering welding the front of the frame along the seem for the inner and outer frame. Several of the rivets have been cut or removed on the front half and I think it is needed to maintain strength. I have also been thinking of welding the front crossmember at the frame on the top and bottom. I like the stock look of it though, so I really don't want to remove it. I will be adding the steering support attached to the panhard bracket from the 80 which will add more support to the front of the frame.

I was just thinking some 3/16 4x4 square tube or something in place of the original. Maybe that's overkill though. Would still look close to stock.

 

[Tank5]

I had some time to work on this again, so I finished welding up all the extra holes I didn't think I needed. I went ahead and welded the frame from the crossmember to just before the cab mounts.

 

[Tank5]

I ditched the 80 rear crossmember and repleced it with a piece of 3x3 3/16 wall tube. The panhard bracket fit on it perfectly.
I am considering drilling some holes in the crossmember so I can access the inside to paint, access any nuts I add for mounts and allow moisture to drain.

I cut and fit the buckets in the rear. It took several fittings since the frame is angled and not strait. I figured the buckets would be identical but found that not to be the case. They have a slightly different profile which made fitting a little more work but it all went togother very nicely.

Hard to tell in the picture above but this is what is left after all that was not needed was cut off. I tacked them in and fitted another piece of 3x3 square tube for the front crossmember.

I got the front shock and spring mounts placed and tacked in.

 

[Tank5]

I had played with the the 80 frame mounts mocking them up roughly where they would go. The front and rear cab mounts are right where the control arms need to be. It would have taken a lot of hack work to make them work together and it would have looked ugly, so I am not using them.

I went looking for replacements and ended up going with some Ruff Stuff brackets. They are beefy compared to the 80 mounts but have a smaller profile that will work better with the cab mounts. I will have to modify them and drill the bolt holes bigger but they should work well.

 

[wngrog]

Dayumm

 

[Tank5]

I had a thought to modify 40 series rear bump stops to fit where I needed them. I didn't get before puctures but this is after I cut and modified them to fit the curve of the 45 frame.

I flipped the frame over to make fitting them easier.

Then for mock up I put some crusty bumpstops I had on.

 

[Tank5]

I took a day off work to get some more done on this and too extend my weekend. I drilled out the holes on the ruff stuff brackets to match the 80 arms then welded them up and tacked them to the frame. I had to cut the front brackets to allow them to move inboard an inch to match the axle brackets.

The rear brackets hang over the frame a good bit. I will have to build some outboard supports for the brackets after I finish mocking everything up to make sure it is where it will stay.

 

[Tank5]

I finished tacking the front radius arm brackets on the front axle. Then flipped the frame over to getter a better idea for how things looked with the axles under the frame.

I bolted the front radius arms on but see I will have to move the axle spring pearches farther out if possible.

I am working now to determine the rear control arm length.

It was nice to spend most of a day on it.

 

[whitey45]

Great build, so want to do this on my Troopy!!

 

[Tank5]

Building the rear control arms today. I bought some DOM to fit both. Built a quick jig to build the lowers first.

The goal here is to match the 80 stock rear length in proportions. I measured the lower stock arms at 27.5 inches eye to eye and the uppers at 15.625 inches.

The lowers will be 35 inches eye to eye. After some math the uppers look like they will be 19.88 inches eye to eye. I am going to remeasure before I get to them.

I will use the upper arms to set the upper control arm crossmember.

 

[Tank5]

The upper and lower control arms are done. They were not difficult just took most of my day to get them done.

I need to fit the upper link crossmember next. It looks like it will set about 5 inches in front of the front spring bucket crossmember. The back of the frame is going to be stiff and heavy.

 

[Tank5]

I shortened the rear panhard bar. I had the perfect piece of solid stock to fot inside the panhard bar. The panhard bar has a weld seem inside of it so I used a grinder to cut a channel in the solid stock insert. It slid together perfect.

I had the axle set where I wanted, so I bolted the panhard up and welded it attached to the axle and frame. It worked out well.

 

[Tank5]

I also fit the upper control arm crossmember. It is where it should go but I am not sure I will use it. I have another piece of 3x3 I could use, so I need to think it through.

 

[Tank5]

I tackled the 80 power steering box mount today. I used the 80 series frame plate for the steering box as a templet to mark the holes. The mag drill made drilling a lot easier.

I made the spacer/supports that go through the frame using an early 40 series drag link. Turns out it was the perfect diameter inside and out.

Put it all together and it turned out perfect.

 

[Tank5]

I have been welding everything permanently on the frame. The rear lower link brackers hung over the outside of the frame a good bit, so I built a support to tie them into the frame.

 

[Tank5]

I have been doing a lot a welding. Not much has changed I just commited to the placement of things. Almost everything is welded on the frame now. I need to clean it up and probably touch up a bit.

I moved the front axle spring-hats out more and welded up all of the brackets on the axles. The front panhard bracket still needs done.

I tacked the panhard braclet on the frame to see if it is going to work.

Sorry not much for pictures.

 

[Tank5]

I assembled the hubs on the housings, so I could make it roll. I got to assemble the hellfire knuckles and give them a fit ment test. The extra beef with the steering arms causes contact with the springs when turning it sharp. I plan to cut the spring hats off and move them inboard a half inch.

For now it rolls, so I can work on fitting some other pieces.

 

[dmaddox]

There's nothing more satisfying than doing your own machine work/engineering/fabrication and it coming together. Great work - you should be proud of yourself!

 

[Tank5]

There's nothing more satisfying than doing your own machine work/engineering/fabrication and it coming together. Great work - you should be proud of yourself!

Thanks! It is still a long way from done but this is the first Iinked type suspension I have built so it is exciting to have reached this point. Doing all the work myself is definitely rewarding, builds confidence and is motivating to see it as it comes together.

 

[Tank5]

I set the cab back on the chassis so I can set the motor in the right spot. I still have the h151, so I am going to install it instead of the auto.

Just started playing with it.