bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Doug, need some help with this when you get a chance.
Builds The Journey Begins...
- Thread starter doug720
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #322
What do you need?
- Thread starter
- #323
Sorry, just saw your other post and found your email in my spam.
I will take a few measurements tomorrow in the daylight.
Doug
I will take a few measurements tomorrow in the daylight.
Doug
- Thread starter
- #324
Ryan,
Here are a few shots of my install. Some of the measurements you may be able to figure out from the related parts, ie engine mounts, etc.
Hope these help.
I'll get some real measurements in the morning.
Doug
Here are a few shots of my install. Some of the measurements you may be able to figure out from the related parts, ie engine mounts, etc.
Hope these help.
I'll get some real measurements in the morning.
Doug
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Doug, thanks. I think that I am close on some of them, but would definitely like some exact measurements. Thanks a million and I'll post a few pictures later on this week. I am off and plan on doing a bunch of fab work and building on the 60. Thanks again
Ryan
- Thread starter
- #326
I don't recall if you moved your trans mount or changed transmissions. If stock, this will locate the back of the engine. My trans mount is in stock location. Originally, I slotted the mount to allow the tens to move side to side, but ended up in the stock location in the end.
My engine is very close to the stock location side to side, and my rear drive shaft angle is the same as the stock 2f engine. I made no drive line changes.
Doug
My engine is very close to the stock location side to side, and my rear drive shaft angle is the same as the stock 2f engine. I made no drive line changes.
Doug
- Thread starter
- #327
OK, here are some measurements:
The rectangular steel tubes I used is 3'X6"X3/16" with 43 degree cuts. The long point to long point top measurement is 5.5" for both sides.
The valve cover to firewall flange/stiffener is about 2.5". It is hard to see and measure with the heater hoses and intake pipe in place.
Engine to frame dimensions:
Inside frame to oil pan flange in front of stock engine mount:
Drivers side - 8"
Pass side - 8.625"
Let me know if you need more measurements.
Doug
The rectangular steel tubes I used is 3'X6"X3/16" with 43 degree cuts. The long point to long point top measurement is 5.5" for both sides.
The valve cover to firewall flange/stiffener is about 2.5". It is hard to see and measure with the heater hoses and intake pipe in place.
Engine to frame dimensions:
Inside frame to oil pan flange in front of stock engine mount:
Drivers side - 8"
Pass side - 8.625"
Let me know if you need more measurements.
Doug
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
That is exactly what I needed Doug, thanks a million. I will post up again when I get done with the mounts.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Doug, got a silly question for you. The two bolt holes on the factory motor mounts, are they in line with each other or is one hole lower than the other? When I marked them on the frame mounts to drill holes, they didn't line up. Just wondering.
Thanks,
Ryan
Thanks,
Ryan
- Thread starter
- #330
I don't recall, but I will check my other engine tomorrow.
Depending on how the motor is positioned, many times the engine is placed parallel to frame rails. Stock 60 are not straight in the frame and off the one side too. If this is the case, it would explain the hole layout.
When I did mine, I scribed the motor mount holes then removed the engine to drill and finish welding the frame mounts in.
How did you locate the trans mount? Did you use the stock trans mount?
Doug
Depending on how the motor is positioned, many times the engine is placed parallel to frame rails. Stock 60 are not straight in the frame and off the one side too. If this is the case, it would explain the hole layout.
When I did mine, I scribed the motor mount holes then removed the engine to drill and finish welding the frame mounts in.
How did you locate the trans mount? Did you use the stock trans mount?
Doug
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
Nice build!
Just in case this has been bothering you or anyone else.... this is generally for the very simple reason that they want the dip stick to read properly! Most smaller boats have a 5 degree transom angle (transom is not 90 degrees to the bottom) and thus many manufacturers set up the engine beds at 5 degrees as well so the output of the engine is co-planer with the input of the stern drive. The engine is perfectly happy running at other angles, as you can well imagine that boats are able to run at many different trim angles without issue. The static trim angle of the boat however, will effect the dip stick reading, so if you install the engine at a different angle, you would need to re-mark the dipstick accordingly.
When we install new engines (I work for an aluminum boat builder) most dip sticks come not marked (CAT, Detroit etc). The engines are filled with the prescribed amount of oil, then the dip sticks are marked with the boat floating in the static trim position, so that future maintenance matches the original prescribed amount.
And now you know!
Keep that diesel chuggin' !
Just in case this has been bothering you or anyone else.... this is generally for the very simple reason that they want the dip stick to read properly! Most smaller boats have a 5 degree transom angle (transom is not 90 degrees to the bottom) and thus many manufacturers set up the engine beds at 5 degrees as well so the output of the engine is co-planer with the input of the stern drive. The engine is perfectly happy running at other angles, as you can well imagine that boats are able to run at many different trim angles without issue. The static trim angle of the boat however, will effect the dip stick reading, so if you install the engine at a different angle, you would need to re-mark the dipstick accordingly.
When we install new engines (I work for an aluminum boat builder) most dip sticks come not marked (CAT, Detroit etc). The engines are filled with the prescribed amount of oil, then the dip sticks are marked with the boat floating in the static trim position, so that future maintenance matches the original prescribed amount.
And now you know!
Keep that diesel chuggin' !
- Thread starter
- #332
A guy called me and said he could not find this thread with Search, so I moved this back to the top for him.
She's running and working great.
She's running and working great.
Great job Doug! Both on your Toyuzu and will all the information posted here on Mud. Thank you for taking the time to make all these posts. I am in the process of making my 60 a Toyuzu! 4bd1t and Nv4500 purchased and mated together. Getting ready to remove the 2f and get my 4 in lift on the truck. I'm sure I will still have question even will all the information posted here and on 4btswaps.
- Thread starter
- #334
Here is how the bell housing and dual flywheels looks.
Let me know if this helps
Let me know if this helps
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Doug, did you have all of your oil lines specialy made? Are they really braided or slip on covers? Getting close on finishing my project up.
- Thread starter
- #336
They are real SS braided lines, I bought the hose and fittings and made them up.
I used Earl's as they have a store close by. It's easy to do, just use tape and a cut off wheel to cut the hose. I use a drill bit that fits tightly inside the hose to guide the inner ferule. I have about $120 in all the hose and fittings. I did all the engine oil lines and PS pressure line with same hose and fittings.
These are bullet proof lines that should last for years, and if required, can be removed and replaced easily.
ope this helps.
Good to hear you are getting close
H
I used Earl's as they have a store close by. It's easy to do, just use tape and a cut off wheel to cut the hose. I use a drill bit that fits tightly inside the hose to guide the inner ferule. I have about $120 in all the hose and fittings. I did all the engine oil lines and PS pressure line with same hose and fittings.
These are bullet proof lines that should last for years, and if required, can be removed and replaced easily.
ope this helps.
Good to hear you are getting close
H
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #337
Here is how I made my manual IP pump shut off cable to stop the engine.
On the manual shut off. I used a PTO cable I bought on line for about $20-25.00. I installed the cable in the old choke location on the dash and ran the cable through the stock choke cable hole in the firewall.
The cable routes in front of the radiator on mine, but I have an inter-cooler that mounts between my rad and AC condenser, and my rad is spaceed back from stock about 5 inches. You may have to route yours differently.
The cable is connected to the shut off arm with a Morse cable end - threaded stud mount wire cable end. These are available at marine supplies - West Marine, etc, or on line - search for Morse cable fittings.
On the manual shut off. I used a PTO cable I bought on line for about $20-25.00. I installed the cable in the old choke location on the dash and ran the cable through the stock choke cable hole in the firewall.
The cable routes in front of the radiator on mine, but I have an inter-cooler that mounts between my rad and AC condenser, and my rad is spaceed back from stock about 5 inches. You may have to route yours differently.
The cable is connected to the shut off arm with a Morse cable end - threaded stud mount wire cable end. These are available at marine supplies - West Marine, etc, or on line - search for Morse cable fittings.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
Something like the link below will work as well. You can find them in hotrod stores, but its a little challenging. The below was/is the backup end if version 2 of my cable which is much like the one above fails at the IP.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/wiregrip.php?clickkey=6170
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/wiregrip.php?clickkey=6170
- Thread starter
- #339
I am beginning a rebuild on another Isuzu 4BD2 engine I bought a couple of years ago. The plan is to install it in my 60 as a replacement for my current 4BD2.
The engine I have works fine, but I do not know the history of it, and I found this 99% complete motor with a bad piston for $275!
I'm using factory Isuzu pistons, rings and liners, as they are graded and matched in size, the rings are the correct material, and each set comes with a new wrist pin, clips and rod bearing - Nice! The gasket set and seals are Isuzu OEM also, as I've heard and seen the stories of aftermarket.
So far I have stripped the engine, pulled the liners and inspected the parts. The cam is worn and I sent it to Delta Cam in WA today, along with the lifters, push rods and rocker assembly. Delta will inspect, weld if needed and regrind the parts for a very reasonable price.
I am placing an order for a other OEM parts, just because - oil pump gears, oil by pass, a few nuts and bolts, etc. I'm getting the OEM parts from Way Scarf Isuzu in Auburn, WA, as they came recommended from another Mud'r and they have good prices.
I spent a few hours prepping the block before it goes to the machine shop for hot tanking and cam bearings. I deburred the block, cleaned up the water passages for better flow, smoothed any casting slag and matched the oil passages and pump to help with flow.
I have a new head, complete with valves and springs which I will lap the valves into. I have just started to match the head and manifolds to the gaskets to help the flow. This is not really porting, just match the shapes.
These are good engines, cranks are titanium nitride coated, so no grinding, just polish and new bearings, and rods are huge.
The IP and injectors were overhauled and I had them turn the fuel up 10-15%. I'm going to keep the same turbo I'm running now - stock 4BD2 with waste gate which gives a max boost of 18-20 psi. I;m swapping in the larger inter cooler from the newer Isuzu NPR the motor came from. The IC is about 50% larger overall and has 2.75" inlet/outlet vs. 2.25" on the one I have now.
I am making a couple of changes this time to the flywheel. My set up runs 2 flywheels to allow the use of the H55 and keep all the driveline stock and in the stock location. It uses a Downey "Chevota" bell housing mated to an IDS adapter ring on the back of the Isuzu to make it a Chevy bolt pattern.
What I have now is the manual Isuzu flywheel with ring gear that the stock 4BD2 starter turns to start. To this is an aluminum adapter (IDS) that bolts to the flywheel that the second flywheel is bolted to. This second flywheel is what the clutch operates on. It all works well, but I have discovered that these engines like more flywheel weight, and for the second flywheel, I had used an aluminum flywheel. Did not know at the time that extra weight was a good thing!
This time, I am using the cast iron Isuzu automatic transmission flywheel, a new steel adapter that locates on and bolts directly to the crank. Then I have a forged steel Hayes 33 pound flywheel. This will add about 28 pounds to the rotating mass, which is very good.
I have a new 12" Chevota pressure plate and disc, plus a new stock throw out bearing.
The machine shop is going to balance the crank, piston assy's, rods, both flywheel's and adapter, plus the clutch as one unit. These are pretty smooth engines to start, so I'll see what happens when its all balanced.
I'm not in too much of a hurry to get this done, as my current engine runs well, plus we are going on vacation and we flat tow the 60 behind our motor home. Unlike when I first did the swap...finish it and leave on a 3 week vacation a week with only 200 test miles, I will wait until my return to install the rebuilt engine.
I'll post some pictures soon.
The engine I have works fine, but I do not know the history of it, and I found this 99% complete motor with a bad piston for $275!
I'm using factory Isuzu pistons, rings and liners, as they are graded and matched in size, the rings are the correct material, and each set comes with a new wrist pin, clips and rod bearing - Nice! The gasket set and seals are Isuzu OEM also, as I've heard and seen the stories of aftermarket.
So far I have stripped the engine, pulled the liners and inspected the parts. The cam is worn and I sent it to Delta Cam in WA today, along with the lifters, push rods and rocker assembly. Delta will inspect, weld if needed and regrind the parts for a very reasonable price.
I am placing an order for a other OEM parts, just because - oil pump gears, oil by pass, a few nuts and bolts, etc. I'm getting the OEM parts from Way Scarf Isuzu in Auburn, WA, as they came recommended from another Mud'r and they have good prices.
I spent a few hours prepping the block before it goes to the machine shop for hot tanking and cam bearings. I deburred the block, cleaned up the water passages for better flow, smoothed any casting slag and matched the oil passages and pump to help with flow.
I have a new head, complete with valves and springs which I will lap the valves into. I have just started to match the head and manifolds to the gaskets to help the flow. This is not really porting, just match the shapes.
These are good engines, cranks are titanium nitride coated, so no grinding, just polish and new bearings, and rods are huge.
The IP and injectors were overhauled and I had them turn the fuel up 10-15%. I'm going to keep the same turbo I'm running now - stock 4BD2 with waste gate which gives a max boost of 18-20 psi. I;m swapping in the larger inter cooler from the newer Isuzu NPR the motor came from. The IC is about 50% larger overall and has 2.75" inlet/outlet vs. 2.25" on the one I have now.
I am making a couple of changes this time to the flywheel. My set up runs 2 flywheels to allow the use of the H55 and keep all the driveline stock and in the stock location. It uses a Downey "Chevota" bell housing mated to an IDS adapter ring on the back of the Isuzu to make it a Chevy bolt pattern.
What I have now is the manual Isuzu flywheel with ring gear that the stock 4BD2 starter turns to start. To this is an aluminum adapter (IDS) that bolts to the flywheel that the second flywheel is bolted to. This second flywheel is what the clutch operates on. It all works well, but I have discovered that these engines like more flywheel weight, and for the second flywheel, I had used an aluminum flywheel. Did not know at the time that extra weight was a good thing!
This time, I am using the cast iron Isuzu automatic transmission flywheel, a new steel adapter that locates on and bolts directly to the crank. Then I have a forged steel Hayes 33 pound flywheel. This will add about 28 pounds to the rotating mass, which is very good.
I have a new 12" Chevota pressure plate and disc, plus a new stock throw out bearing.
The machine shop is going to balance the crank, piston assy's, rods, both flywheel's and adapter, plus the clutch as one unit. These are pretty smooth engines to start, so I'll see what happens when its all balanced.
I'm not in too much of a hurry to get this done, as my current engine runs well, plus we are going on vacation and we flat tow the 60 behind our motor home. Unlike when I first did the swap...finish it and leave on a 3 week vacation a week with only 200 test miles, I will wait until my return to install the rebuilt engine.
I'll post some pictures soon.
Last edited:
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Dang, you have become the Isuzu man on Mud. Sounds great Doug.
