- Thread starter
- #401
Here you go...
Builds The Journey Begins... (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter doug720
- Start date
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bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Thanks sir, can't wait to drive it
- Thread starter
- #403
Update:
I have most of my small parts in hand, new thermostat and housing, exhaust manifold, oil pump ball and spring, etc.
Decided to use brass freeze plugs in the engine and head. The new head I bought had plated steel freeze plugs installed. I'm glad I decided to change them to brass.
When I removed the steel plugs, I found a large amount of casting sand and slag in 2 of the water passages. In addition, there was casting webbing in a several areas around the injectors and precups. I removed the slag, broke off the webbing, and smoothed a few areas with a carbide bit. I think this will help with cooling, especially being an IDI engine.
I also found a couple of pieces of wire used to hold mold pieces together when cast iron parts are cast. A couple had slag attached to them. I ended up with at least 2 big spoonfuls of slag, debris and sand from the head.
If I had not opened the freeze plugs, I would never had seen these issues. I did the same to the block, so coolant flow should be good.
In addition, I cleaned up the precup openings a little and radiused the edges a bit. They were very sharp from the final head milling and had a burr around the opening. I smoothed the passage port surface a little also.
I also smoothed the head ports a little, nothing too much, just removed a few casting protrusions. I also matched/blended the intake and exhaust gaskets to the head and manifolds.
The new head was vacuum tested, and they found a couple of vales leaking a little. They said they would likely seal after running a little, but I had the machine shop just do a quick seating job to the valves. The head was apart already to install the factory valve guide seals. Interesting observation - the valve seals removed look exactly the same as the factory parts?
I'm starting the final cleaning of the block and head this weekend - hot water and soap, brushes, air, etc, and hope to start assembly next week.
A question on the freeze plug installation - The new head FP's had a red, soft and really sticky sealer on them. Any ideas what this is? It looked like it would work well.
Sorry no pictures, the head passages are too small to get a look into them.
I have most of my small parts in hand, new thermostat and housing, exhaust manifold, oil pump ball and spring, etc.
Decided to use brass freeze plugs in the engine and head. The new head I bought had plated steel freeze plugs installed. I'm glad I decided to change them to brass.
When I removed the steel plugs, I found a large amount of casting sand and slag in 2 of the water passages. In addition, there was casting webbing in a several areas around the injectors and precups. I removed the slag, broke off the webbing, and smoothed a few areas with a carbide bit. I think this will help with cooling, especially being an IDI engine.
I also found a couple of pieces of wire used to hold mold pieces together when cast iron parts are cast. A couple had slag attached to them. I ended up with at least 2 big spoonfuls of slag, debris and sand from the head.
If I had not opened the freeze plugs, I would never had seen these issues. I did the same to the block, so coolant flow should be good.
In addition, I cleaned up the precup openings a little and radiused the edges a bit. They were very sharp from the final head milling and had a burr around the opening. I smoothed the passage port surface a little also.
I also smoothed the head ports a little, nothing too much, just removed a few casting protrusions. I also matched/blended the intake and exhaust gaskets to the head and manifolds.
The new head was vacuum tested, and they found a couple of vales leaking a little. They said they would likely seal after running a little, but I had the machine shop just do a quick seating job to the valves. The head was apart already to install the factory valve guide seals. Interesting observation - the valve seals removed look exactly the same as the factory parts?
I'm starting the final cleaning of the block and head this weekend - hot water and soap, brushes, air, etc, and hope to start assembly next week.
A question on the freeze plug installation - The new head FP's had a red, soft and really sticky sealer on them. Any ideas what this is? It looked like it would work well.
Sorry no pictures, the head passages are too small to get a look into them.
- Thread starter
- #404
I worked on matching the intake and exhaust manifolds to the head and gaskets. Just blending mostly with polishing any big casting problems.
The pictures shoe the gasket outlines on the parts and the final openings.
On the head, I'm not going to open the parts all the way, as I don't know how thick the castings are. So I'm going to chamfer the ports to help it breath a little better.
I finished cleaning all the interior of the heads water passages. Removing the casting slag and webbing should really help with the coolant flow.
The pictures shoe the gasket outlines on the parts and the final openings.
On the head, I'm not going to open the parts all the way, as I don't know how thick the castings are. So I'm going to chamfer the ports to help it breath a little better.
I finished cleaning all the interior of the heads water passages. Removing the casting slag and webbing should really help with the coolant flow.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
That is looking good. Use to do the same thing to VW engines
TLC Norway
woodwelder
mmmh, it's getting closer!!
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
Wow Great build! Just the description of the power and torque on this engine is a selling point.
Great job on the build. hope i get to see this rig in person sometime. not to far away from you.
Great job on the build. hope i get to see this rig in person sometime. not to far away from you.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Do you happen to have a part number for your lower radiator hose?. Post up a pic also please sir. Getting close to driving mine.
- Thread starter
- #409
I have the part numbers at home and will try to post them before I head out to go fishing for 4 days tonight.
On my swap, I relocated the lower radiator connection about 1.5 inches to clear my steering hose and radiator mount, so yours may be a little different..
The hoses I used came from NAPA, and are basically 2 90 degree hoses with long legs. I used the stock Isuzu metal center section that has the small hose barb that feeds coolant to the turbo.
I cut up the stock Isuzu hose, and used pvc pipe to join the sections until it fit my swap. Clamped this up and took this to NAPA. They let me go through their hoses until I found the ones that worked.
I wanted to keep the hoses simple and something that is always in stock. My upper is a shortened stock 60 2f hose.
On my swap, I relocated the lower radiator connection about 1.5 inches to clear my steering hose and radiator mount, so yours may be a little different..
The hoses I used came from NAPA, and are basically 2 90 degree hoses with long legs. I used the stock Isuzu metal center section that has the small hose barb that feeds coolant to the turbo.
I cut up the stock Isuzu hose, and used pvc pipe to join the sections until it fit my swap. Clamped this up and took this to NAPA. They let me go through their hoses until I found the ones that worked.
I wanted to keep the hoses simple and something that is always in stock. My upper is a shortened stock 60 2f hose.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Doug, on my gas tank I have three ports on top of the tank. One is supply, one is return and the other is a vent line. I think yours is the same, where did you run the vent line to? I don't have any of the original gas lines and parts in the passenger side rear quarter panel.
- Thread starter
- #411
I ran the big vent up the D pillar near the vent with an inline filter at the end with an inline check valve.
https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Safe-RV38-ROLL-VALVE/dp/B003TPHFDS
https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Safe-RV38-ROLL-VALVE/dp/B003TPHFDS
- Thread starter
- #412
Let me know if these show what you need?
- Thread starter
- #414
I spaced the steering box out 1/2"
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Doug, Im having power steering issues. Does the pump on the Isuzu put out enough pressure? Having trouble on and off road. Its almost like manual steering.
I had no issues with mine on or off road.
- Thread starter
- #417
Same here, no issues. Mine works as well, if not better than it did with the stock 2f PS pump.
What size lines did you run between pump and box? Kink? Blockage? Did you use the Isuzu PS reservoir? It has a screen to clean it out.
What size lines did you run between pump and box? Kink? Blockage? Did you use the Isuzu PS reservoir? It has a screen to clean it out.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
I used the same size lines as you Doug. Also used the Isuzu PS reservoir. I did use a after market PS cooler.
- Thread starter
- #419
I used a aftermarket PS cooler also, so no idea why you are having trouble.
Do you have the Isuzu workshop manual? It has some good diagnostic and testing tips for most systems. Let me know if you don't have the manual, and check mine tonight.
Sorry
Do you have the Isuzu workshop manual? It has some good diagnostic and testing tips for most systems. Let me know if you don't have the manual, and check mine tonight.
Sorry
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
I've only got the engine rebuild portion. I'll check it tomorrow
