Builds The Journey Begins...

[doug720]

Correct on the hose types and locations.

The cooler is optional, but I think is a good idea. I replaced the stock bare steel PS lines, which act like a cooler, with the braided and rubber hose which don't cool as well.

 

[bluehawk]

Doug, are you using any type of fuel pump mounted to the frame to get fuel from the tank to the firewall mounted fuel filter? Also, what size hose are you using from the thermostat housing to the heater control on the firewall?

 

[Pacer]

Doug, are you using any type of fuel pump mounted to the frame to get fuel from the tank to the firewall mounted fuel filter? Also, what size hose are you using from the thermostat housing to the heater control on the firewall?

I don't think any of these trucks used an extra fuel pump. My Fuso never had one and I did not install one in my swap either. I think the injection pump pulles fuel just fine. Lots of Cummins folks add a lift pump, supposedly to help keep up with all the added power but just seems to add problems...

 

[bluehawk]

Thanks Pacer....Doug, on the fuel lines in the rear on the tank. Are all of those ports on the gas tank needed? Do you just need a supply and return port?

 

[doug720]

Thanks Pacer....Doug, on the fuel lines in the rear on the tank. Are all of those ports on the gas tank needed? Do you just need a supply and return port?

No added fuel pump on mine.

On the fuel tank, I used the stock supply, return, one small veny and the large vent to the fill pipe, which has a small vent line also...as I recall?

I think the heater hose size is 5/8"

 

[bluehawk]

Thanks a million Doug. Makes mine one step closer with all of your information.

 

[doug720]

The machine shopped called me today...

My new engine parts are ready to pick-up Monday! Yea!

Block was hot tanked with new cam bearings installed. All rotating parts balanced - crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, adapter, pressure plate and balancer. The stock crank is titanium nitrate coated and was just polished after balancing.

New OEM graded pistons, liners and rings. Brand new loaded head had valves lapped in and tested for leakage. Delta cam did the cam, lifters and rocker arm assembly. I have an OEM gasket set and new clutch/pressure plate ready to go.

Hope to have it assembled and installed in a couple of weeks.

Nothing wrong with the Isuzu 4BD2 I have now, but I bought it used with unknown history over 50K miles a go. I found another complete 4BD2 with a bad piston for $275.00. I found 4 OEM piston/liner kits for $400, oem gasket set for $125 on ebay, new loaded head for $560 shipped, engine bearings for $140, new clutch for $175, new Hayes billet steel flywheel off craigslist for $125, rebuilt 4 injectors for $125.

With the engine, all the parts and machine shop work, I should be into the rebuild around $2000.00. Not too bad.

I deburred and de-stressed the block, matched and ported the oil pump, oil and water passages, intake and exhaust manifolds already. I'm going to use the IP and turbo off the current engine as I overhauled them recently.

I also decided to use Dustins crank style adapter this time, as it is centered on the crank flywheel locating pin for precise alignment. Originally, I used an Isuzuswappers adapter, which bolts to the stock Isuzu flywheel and an aluminum second flywheel as I was concerned with adding too much weight to the rotating assembly. Turns out more weight is better. Plus, I can use the stock Isuzu roller bearing pilot bearing instead of the bronze bushing I have currently, which replaced the needle bearing that went bad after a few thousand miles.

With the new adapter, Hayes billet steel flywheel and a 4BD2 cast iron auto trans flywheel, I should gain around 28+ pounds of rotating mass. This weight combined with the balanced engine parts should make an already smooth engine, really smoooooth!

I'll post some pictures as I go.

 

[bluehawk]

Doug, that sounds like a ton of work at a dang good price. Great work....

 

[bluehawk]

Here are a few shots of the PS lines and connections. Check pages 2-4 in this thread for more info.

View attachment 1218472 View attachment 1218473 View attachment 1218475 View attachment 1218476 View attachment 1218477

Doug, I'm in the process of getting my power steering lines made and have one question. In the first picture the lines are one way and the last picture they are reversed. Which way is the right way?

 

[gerg]

I think you will like the extra 28lbs. Dougal said the stock Isuzu flywheel is much lighter than comparable sized engines and contributes to the vibration under load at lower rpms. I'm going to have to hire you to source me 4bd1 parts! You got some amazing deals. Nice job.
g

 

[doug720]

Thanks G

Old Blue, the second picture is correct. It does not work well the other way...

 

[bluehawk]

Thanks G

Old Blue, the second picture is correct. It does not work well the other way...

LOL, thanks Doug.

 

[doug720]

ask me how I know!

 

[bluehawk]

Are you running a rear heater?

 

[serenity]

Nice engine swap! I just added this to the new FAQ.

 

[doug720]

Thanks. The FAQ section is a nice addition.

On the heater, no rear heater on mine. SoCal does not get cold...But I did keep the heater just in case!

 

[bluehawk]

Thanks for replying on the heater. Just trying to figure out the routing on the heater hose lines. You have any pictures of the gas pedal? Would like to see how you solved this problem

 

[doug720]

I used a pedal, cable and hand throttle from a 62.

I modified the pedal mount where it bolts to the firewall by grafting the 60 mount to the 62 mount. It bolts right to the stock 60 firewall now. The hand throttle just bolts in then with no mods.

On the cable, I had to drill a new hole in the firewall a couple of inches higher than the 60 linkage oval hole. I used the stock 62 firewall cable mount.

The 62 cable has the correct end to attach to the Isuzu IP arm also, so it works well. With this set up, I have full throttle movement and easy pedal effort, and it looks stock.

I don't have any pictures here today, maybe some at home if needed.

 

[bluehawk]

Looked back thru your posts and see that your using the stock LC receiver for the A/C. Is this right? How did you do the wiring on the alternator? Just finished up all of the dash wiring and just need to find a way to run the stock alternator wiring over to the Isuzu alternator.

 

[doug720]

On the AC, stock or aftermarket works.

The alternator connection was straight forward. I ran a 6g from the charge post to the battery. The plug wiring was easy also, but I don't recall the pin arrangement off hand. I will check my notes for it, but on 4BTswaps, a guy posted the Isuzu alt layout. When I wired it, everything worked perfect, including the charge light.

I'll check tonight.

Looking good!