Builds The Journey Begins...

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Here are a few pictures -
 
Doug, what oil filter are you running? Went and picked one up today. It's a Purolator L46066, and Holy Crap it's a big son of a gun.
 
There are two filters that work on the stock 4bd2 filter head - a long and a short version. Sounds like you have the long one. Both are the same diameter.

I run the short filter on mine, as it makes it easier to change.

The short filter comes on the newer 4H motors, but is an alternate on the 4BD1/2's per Isuzu. I buy my filters from the Isuzu dealer, but don't know the number off hand. The ones I buy are all black and are industrial versions that cost around $20. I have seen them on ebay.
 
Engine build update:

The parts are at the machine shop. The brand new loaded head is being fully inspected and pressure checked. The cam and lifters are back and ready. All the rotating parts are being balanced, including the new steel flywheel and new double flywheel adapter as an assembly. This where I ran into a problem with the connecting rods, well at least I think it's a problem.

It appears that most diesels, no mater the manufacturer, are not balanced very precisely due to their relatively low maximum RPM levels. When my rods were weighed, there was 3 ounces difference between the heaviest and lightest rods! Far too much to remove material from to balance. So I'm hunting more rods to weigh and use.

After talking to the balancing people and reading up on diesel balance, this amount of variance is not unusual, in fact its common. The Isuzu is pretty smooth already, but I want a really smooth engine, so I'm trying to get things as close to balanced as reasonably possible.

All the other parts are really close, just the rods are out.

I'm meeting someone next week who is letting me weigh several rods to hopefully find the ones I need. I also bought one that is being shipped to me currently. I hope this works.

A bummer: To balance the stock rods, they were already penned and new factory Isuzu little end bushings were installed and sized to the new factory piston pins...Dam!

I have nearly all the other parts already, so the engine build should be underway soon.
 
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Looking for a place to run a ground from the starter to the motor or frame. Where did you put yours Doug?
 
I ran ground cables from both batteries to the the body, frame and engine block, with one directly to the starter.

On the passenger side, I used the stock 60 ground cable which has a body connection, and connected it to the front of the engine at the thermostat housing. Same point as the stock Isuzu ground and from frame to engine.

On the drivers side, ran ground to body, frame, block and starter.

Grounds are good.
 
Doug, trying to start mY motor and having a few problems. With the adapter from 69rambler, and 12V battery it is very slow to turn over. Even hooked up a battery from a running vehicle and turns over a couple of times and then runs out of gas. Took at the glow plugs and that helps some. Any suggestions?
 
I used the stock Isuzu starter on mine, but I do have a Ford 7.3 though.

I know both starters takes a lot of juice, and don't like jumper cables. I tried them on my Isuzu and it was slow to crank. When I wired it correctly, it spins fast. I just replaced the starter on my 7.3 as it was spinning slower than normal with a new NAPA unit. I forgot how fast they turn over the engine, even faster than the Isuzu starter.

Hope this helps
 
Discovered the problem. With using jumper cables and a bunch of wires, I wasn't getting a good connection. When I wired the battery right to the starter, it spun a lot quicker. I had to bleed the air out of the injection pump. After that, she fired right up. Got some video but can't figure out how to rotate it correctly so it will be at the right viewing point. Later on when I get it all figured out, I'll post the video up. Got to small oil leaks. One at the back side of the block off plate and one from the fitting on top of the oil filter where I welded the number 12 fitting on. Thanks for all of your help and letting me rob ideas from you.
 
Here she is Doug. I'm so excited right now.
 
I saw the first start post on the 60 side, outstanding!!!

The leak on top of the oil filter fitting is common, as they distort a little. Most places that have the aluminum AN style fitting sell aluminum crush washers that will seal the fitting. They are called conical washers.
 
Thanks for the heads up Doug. I'll definitely check into it for sure.
 
There are two filters that work on the stock 4bd2 filter head - a long and a short version. Sounds like you have the long one. Both are the same diameter.

I run the short filter on mine, as it makes it easier to change.

The short filter comes on the newer 4H motors, but is an alternate on the 4BD1/2's per Isuzu. I buy my filters from the Isuzu dealer, but don't know the number off hand. The ones I buy are all black and are industrial versions that cost around $20. I have seen them on ebay.

I have been using WIX 51673. I have no idea if that is the tall or short one. It is about 6 inches tall and $35 on amazon. I would love to find a source for one for $20!
 
I have been using WIX 51673. I have no idea if that is the tall or short one. It is about 6 inches tall and $35 on amazon. I would love to find a source for one for $20!

Like Doug, I went to the Ford/Isuzu dealership and got one for $21. Dazed, did you have any problems with the block off plate on the side of the motor leaking?
 
Which block off plate? I have had an issue with a leak somewhere on the IP side that I havent been able to chase down since day 1.
 
The block off plate that Dustin (69rambler) had to redesign. Just behind the starter.
 
I dont have one of those. The adapter I have is from the Isuzu block to the 2F bellhousing.
 
I dont have one of those. The adapter I have is from the Isuzu block to the 2F bellhousing.

I'll send you a PM so we don't clog up Doug's thread.
 

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