I run sbc 350/th400/ dana 300 with 4:1 and really like how it performs. But I am still on leaves...
Builds The honey badger build (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Firemedic831
- Start date
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- #62
Would you happen to have some pics of you engine compartment ? Are you running electric fans ect
- Thread starter
- #63
As it sits I would have about a inch of space to the Radiator 
. From the firewall to the distributor I have 6.5 inches .
. From the firewall to the distributor I have 6.5 inches .As it sits I would have about a inch of space to the Radiator
View attachment 2969997
View attachment 2969998
The nice thing about th400/Dana 300 is that once you put in a 32 spline input on the Dana 300 it bolts up perfectly without an adapter. Just need a 3/8-1/2 inch clocking ring. I have run this setup in 2 FJ40s. I will try to post pics of both shortly.
First build had SBC with v belt accessories. Aluminum squarebody radiator and dual electric fans. Worked well. No overheating in Chico 100+ degree weather climbing Skyway up into paradise. Unfortunately, it burned in Camp fire. Built second with mechanical fan. Had to move engine back about 2.5-3 inches.
Both run Toy CV rear shafts machined to operate at 35 degrees but first build operated at about 18-20 degrees at ride height. Second build is operating at 22 degrees at ride height.
Dana 300 needs one bolt hole moved on clocking ring...
Both run Toy CV rear shafts machined to operate at 35 degrees but first build operated at about 18-20 degrees at ride height. Second build is operating at 22 degrees at ride height.
Dana 300 needs one bolt hole moved on clocking ring...
Water pump pulley fit right between the two twelve inch fans with 2 inches of clearance.
Current build is Mechanical fan..has again about 2-3 inches of clearance from fan clutch and blades to radiator. Unknown radiator-4 core copper came with body...
Current build is Mechanical fan..has again about 2-3 inches of clearance from fan clutch and blades to radiator. Unknown radiator-4 core copper came with body...
- Thread starter
- #69
Test fit. All
Looks good
Looks good
- Thread starter
- #70
I finally mocked up
My rear Full Float axle.
My rear Full Float axle.
- Thread starter
- #71
Funny i have 3 Rollaway tool boxes 1 being Snap on all filled with Snap on tools. and here i have a pic with a adjustable wrench lol. i am not even sure what i was using that for haha. Anyways. Ifs hubs turned down. and will use FJ cruiser front Rotors and Calipers
- Thread starter
- #73
3rd. So. I have my current Diamond axels that are being reworked . 9.5 diffs. Mini truck outers. RCV 300m shafts. Rear is a FF With 32 spline Shafts . Then i have a Diamond. with. a HI 9 diff and Dana 60 outers And the rear is being made. but will have a Tundra diff FF . I. have 3. 40s 1 is stock and 2 are crawlers. 1 is more extreme than the other .
Edit : When i say Dana 60 outers. Really its nothing to do with Dana 60 . They are Spidertrax Ultimate Knuckles and 40 spline unit bearings .
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EWheeler
GOLD Star
What are the details on the Tundra diff FF rear axle you're building? All custom except for the 10" diff assembly? I have one, but am undecided on how I want to finish it. It's far too wide in stock configuration in my opinion, but I'm too cheap to go all custom housing and new shafts and yada yada yada. I think i'm going to spool it and see if I can just shorten the factory axles and housing. There is a guy on east cost that makes a spool for this diff, I'm not finding his website right now. It was $400 when I was researching these axles and options last summer.
- Thread starter
- #75
Yes Custom Diamond Housing . I am not 100 percent certain you can cut down oe axle shafts . I believe they may neck down but would have to look . My RCV shafts do not. They can be cut but RCV will not warranty them because they would have to re heat treat . I talked to Brian at Front range and he can do them for me its just hard on the tooling so not something he would do everyday . . I have 2 Tundra Diffs 1 is factory e lock the other is open . But ARB makes a locker for it . I will put up pics after the 27th i need to go pick the front up but can not drive just yet .
- Thread starter
- #76
The housing is not difficult at all to narrow . I have Diamond housing and have change them from a Front Driver drop to a Rear Pass Drop and my rear center to a Pass. No one would ever be able to tell that it has been done . I used a sleeve on the ID of the tube just to keep everything inline and thought it would make it stronger .
EWheeler
GOLD Star
Are you building two 10" tundra axles, or just one? Have thought about also building a front axle using the tundra diff, but not sure what I would do about the outters or shafts. 10" diff with 80 series outters would be neat (and probably a huge waste of money in a lot of peoples eyes), but I don't think you can get the diameter of axle needed for the tundra side gears through the center of the 80 series knuckle ball. Everything gets expensive quick on custom front axles! Thanks for sharing your builds.
- Thread starter
- #78
No just the rear. . I have a Diamond Housing with a Hi 9 front. with Spidertrax Outers ( kinda Dana 60 but race stuff ) I was going to do the Tundra up front but had the opportunity To get the Hi 9 in a trade its got all the bells and whistles .
- Thread starter
- #79
Oh you can get the housing. my axle tubes are 3.5 OD I could have got the 80 Balls and knuckles. in fact i will be getting them as that was part of our deal . I just decided that if i am going this deep go all in and get the 60 outer stuff Overkill sure but i will never wonder what if .
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- #80
Been working on little things while I heal up . The PO added a lock to the glove compartment 
