Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (11 Viewers)

[04UZJ100]

How has your AHC held up with the mods and that many miles? Also, what’s your oil of choice and interval?

Thanks!

Beautiful LX!

 

[grinchy]

@04UZJ100 ahc is fine. I drove some lx470s before buying the 200 ride is similar. I basically stole this lx so I have kind of figured of the globes go flat I am priced in to replace. I do have the fluid exchange on my pm list but haven’t gotten to it yet.
I used valvoline full syn 0 20 high mile. Also the Trd filter. Went ahead and put on the metal filter holder while I was at it. I haven’t had to change again but figure 7500.

Rig runs very sound for the miles.

Thanks!

 

[grinchy]

This is what I 'traded' in for the ARB twin.

I hadn't used it much the last year or so, but I will miss the shots.

happy to have the counter space back. So I guess it's a win win?

In all worthwhile pursuits sacrifices must be made.

 

[krice118]

if you are looking at 35s and regearing on the cheap, find a front diff from a tundra or sequoia with the tow package. they can be found on ebay for 300, then get a 99-2007 land cruiser rear 3rd member. they can be found for 350-400 on ebay. both are pretty much a direct swap. you can have 4.30 gears for less than $1000.

FYI only the 98-02 100series came with 4.30 gears. When the 5 speed was introduced in 2003 the diffs were changed to a 4.10

 

[grinchy]

Thanks @krice118 . I’m up in the air between the 4.3 and 4.88, am tracking that 98-02 they’re like 1k for the axle now. A 4.88 lsd new third is 1700. Don’t know yet if there is resale in the 3.9.

Lots to consider for sure and definitely can use help.

 

[krice118]

@grinchy i have enjoyed watching your build progress. Thanks for keeping this thread up to date.

From reading others posts about gearing to 4.88s I think if you really want 35s you would be happier if you did it right and went 4.88s

 

[grinchy]

Now it’s on!

 

[grinchy]

Hood alignment got you down? My driver side fender gap was 1/8 low, and I could see it all the time. Right in my field of view. Turns out it’s an easy easy fix.
Screw the large bumper in or out to adjust. Voila!

 

[tbisaacs]

Hood alignment got you down? My driver side fender gap was 1/8 low, and I could see it all the time. Right in my field of view. Turns out it’s an easy easy fix.
Screw the large bumper in or out to adjust. Voila!

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Holy crap I noticed this too. Can’t wait to adjust.

 

[grinchy]

Are either of these rear mount positions for the twin advised?

1 by the rear ac unit?

2 by the driver side axle and frame corner above the soon to be deleted resonator?

I’m gonna get a 2 gal tank too to stick back there

Any pics of a rear mount would be appreciated!
I’m ok with relocating the breathers. But I don’t want it scraped off by the first trail run either.

 

[mcgaskins]

I would imagine the compressor would get super dirty and take some direct shots of mud and water at high speed over time under the truck potentially causing issues and shortening its life. I’ve considered mounting one inside the cabin on the back of the drawers facing the second row seats or under the hood in the “traditional” spot.

 

[grinchy]

Ok thanks. Yep just looking at options. I guess the under hood temps are not really a concern as the twin gets above 200deg while operating anyhow.

I think I’ll order that bracket and the 2nd battery kit and get on with it.

I did quote out the AUS sourced interior rear mount, it was priced like other ARB stuff, just on the range of too much, in the end decided I didn’t want the noise in the rig.

 

[grinchy]

I’m revising the WiFi camera rating up. I finally followed the full phone configuration setup. The WiFi can be made static IP and the app can be started with Siri. It now is just as frictionless as shifting into reverse. So easy.

 

[grinchy]

Why do I always feel like the last one to the party? Sorry about that... Assuming you have access to the parts, you can make one of these adapters in about 15 minutes. That said, I know do it yourselfing something like this isn't for everyone but I wanted to do a quick "how to" for anyone interested: I started with a 30 amp factory type fuse as I wanted the filament portion to be as robust as possible for soldering to. I whittled away a little of the plastic case and soldered in my fuse holder and diode. The orientation of the diode is critical and the band of the diode should be closest to the front of the vehicle/fuse to work correctly. Here are a few progress pics:

View attachment 1606785

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Followed this approach and built the Alternator Sensor wire <diode> update.

I used a Mini Fuse, 40 A as the body (not a LP mini, which is the regular fuse in the LX570). A Mini fuse inline holder as @619TOY did, and a 1 A <diode >. Honestly the hardest part was getting access to the blades on the sacrificial fuse. It took around 30 min start to finish.

For orientation, mine worked with the <diode > on the blade toward car front / battery. And the <diode> should show the band toward the fuse.

Before: (cold idle) 14.07
After: (cold idle) 14.56

So I got 0.5V on cold alternator.

My battery after a few weeks of driving was at 12.55 V. I have the Optima Yellow Top 27F.

I'll watch this for a few weeks, and if it doesn't perk up will get an additional maintenance charger.

 

[grinchy]

I've got maybe 8 hours on the truck since the <diode> mod on the alternator sensing circuit. My battery now reads 12.76.

That's good, but not great - hoping to see 13.0. I'll check again in a couple weeks.

 

[grinchy]

Onboard air bom

Compressor
1 arb twin with internal pressure regulator
3 8 gauge 3/8 copper crimp lugs
1 16 gauge 3/8 crimp lug
1 latching toggle switch (or use the supplied panel switch)
(Opt) Bluetooth remote relay
(Opt) smartphone with Bluetooth control app
1 Slee Mount
1 hammer crimper
8 gauge heat shrink

Piping
1 0.25 npt m f 90
1 0.25 npt m f check valve
1 0.25 m to 6an hose
12 feet 6an hose (steel braid over ptfe)
1 6an hose to 0.25 m npt 90
1 air tank
1 6an hose to 0.25 m npt 90
3 feet 6an hose
1 6an hose to 0.25 m npt 90
1 0.25 npt bulkhead f f
1 0.25 npt 45 m to f
(Opt) 1 0.25 npt tee m f f
(Opt) 1 0.25 m npt 150 psi liquid filled gauge
1 high flow 0.25 npt F quick connect
1 permatex high performance thread sealant

Air tank
1 Air tank 5 port
1 pressure release 175 psi
2 0.25 npt plugs
4 m8 rivet nuts

Rivet nut tool home brew
1 m8 10.9 3 inch bolt
1 1x8 3/16 steel flat, 8mm hole
1 10.9 m8 nut

Hose
1 high flow 0.25 npt m quick connect
1 poly or hybrid 3/8 hose, 25 ft, 0.25 npt m m
1 high flow 0.25 npt f quick connect

Inflator
1 high flow 0.25 npt m quick connect
1 Milton inflator with gauge, swivel foot, locking

It’s best if we don’t talk cost.

 

[grinchy]

So I was going to just not address electrical due to cost, but since I’m already crying decided to go ahead and do it up

Adding a fuse block bom
1 mounting surface
3 feet 1/0 red
3 feet 1/0 black
1 150 amp waterproof breaker
10 1/0 3/8 crimps and shrink
1 4 post 3/8 distribution plate red
1 4 post 3/8 distribution plate black
1 blue sea six fuse with negative and cover

Used compressor wiring harness and fuses.

There is one position left on the positive distribution plate.

I’m looking a a scrap piece of 1/4 ply as the mounting surface, probably directly over the battery. Fuse box top is also in play.

Not sure if I should run the neg to the frame ground or the battery neg. Thoughts?

 

[grinchy]

Resonator delete completed!

I deconstructed the resonator today. It has three layers of steel a thinner gauge steel outer layer (what we see) and two pipe layers.

If you cut right behind the weld you can use the inner pipe layers to shape the flow a bit.

I’ll post up the final look soon.

 

[grinchy]

Yeah for weight reduction and clearance gains

 

[grinchy]

Six month report on the Hikari Phillips low beams. They’re boss. Love them. Get some.