Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (2 Viewers)

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do you know if you can run the SPC upper arms on a LX?
if so, you can move the wheel forward to clear the body mount. DO NOT go more than 3/4" forward movement with the wheel, you will destroy CVs.....I talked with the techs at SPC and they were amazed I was able to get over an inch forward movement. totally wasnt' needed. just told the shop to push it forward. they did....
 
if you are looking at 35s and regearing on the cheap, find a front diff from a tundra or sequoia with the tow package. they can be found on ebay for 300, then get a 99-2007 land cruiser rear 3rd member. they can be found for 350-400 on ebay. both are pretty much a direct swap. you can have 4.30 gears for less than $1000.
 
I saw a member had done that, might have been you? Front and rear for a grand is about my speed.
 
Did the driver side axle today. Missed the action shot of my puller last time. Much faster and easier the seconds axle, less than two hours all in.

Moving on to AHC and the two remaining diffs now.

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do you know if you can run the SPC upper arms on a LX?
if so, you can move the wheel forward to clear the body mount. DO NOT go more than 3/4" forward movement with the wheel, you will destroy CVs.....I talked with the techs at SPC and they were amazed I was able to get over an inch forward movement. totally wasnt' needed. just told the shop to push it forward. they did....


You’d have to find a way to transfer the AHC height sensors. Seems easy but nobody has done it yet.
 
It it just welded to the UCA, doesn’t look like too much in it to grind off and retack. On a steel arm anyhow. An aluminum arm would take somewhat more. Probably a bracket and screw. I’m not doing a ‘lift’ so plan to clear UCA with a spacer or adapter.

Could be a blind spot in my dream plan here I’m no alignment guru and just am assuming that a larger diameter tire can be aligned with stock adjustments. This may not at all be true . . .
 
if you are looking at 35s and regearing on the cheap, find a front diff from a tundra or sequoia with the tow package. they can be found on ebay for 300, then get a 99-2007 land cruiser rear 3rd member. they can be found for 350-400 on ebay. both are pretty much a direct swap. you can have 4.30 gears for less than $1000.

@TexAZ , were you able to get the issue with the rear sway bar contacting the actuator sorted? I'm thinking of tackling this project this fall, though the sway bar setup on the LX is a bit different than the LC sans KDSS so i don't know if its an issue or not.
 
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@richxd87 sorta... I removed the actuator and cut a plate to block off the hole, and clearance the upper corner just a tad, so that I have full use of the sway bar with no contact. Got sidetracked going to Moab/Telluride with LCDC and haven't finished up mounting the actuator.

I still need to machine the hole in the shaft the locking fork rides on, and run an air line back to the axle.
work and weather have not been cooperating with this project lately.
 
Finished up the Trax mount. I have the generic rescue buddy version.
Started with the pax mount made for my bumper. I had previously bought a 1/2” by 4 ft section of square tube for a roof mount I didn’t finish for the trax (this mount will work for that, but I’d likely put it diagonal) anyhow. . .
It’s 1/4 Inch based primarily because the knobs from Amazon are 1/4 20.
Test fitting indicated I needed to be able to screw in the bolt rather than use as a stud. Further sizing showed that the built in hole on the trax is the same as 1/2” copper tubing. Excellent.
The securing item is 1/4 all thread cut to length. Knob, fender washer, jam nut, space, nut, 1/4 regular washer. The copper tube ride still on the nuts and is between the two washers. Fit isn’t perfect, could put a bushing in there’s but it’s fine. Am screwing it together with a second knob. Super easy on off, which was my goal. Some vibrations but nothing a bungie around the pax wouldn’t fix.

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Was adding tpms into my road set yesterday. The sidewall scuffed from the clamp. Thought it was weird looked at the build date, was 07. So crap. I won’t be using those tires at all.

I’d be more bummed but they came with super clean wheels, I was just gonna runa couple 32nds off them are highway trips. Oh well.

So then I looked at the build date on my duratracs. I really should pay more attention when i buy stuff. These are 11 so getting long in the tooth too. They won’t make it thru the winter in any case. All this is to say that tires just moved to the top of the list.

Had already been comparing the ridge grapplers and cooper discoverer at3 xlt. Then the st maxx got involved for a bit. It’s super close, people love the ridge grapplers, people love the at3, but not it’s sidewall, and the xlt probably fixes the sidewall issue. I decided the st maxx wasn’t just right for me.

Still up in the air.
Discoverer is 295/70r18 61 lbs, 34.25, ridge grappler is 285/70r18 60 lbs, 33.98. Can get five xlt for four ridge grapplers. However these are likely the last (AT) tires I buy for this rig, and price isn’t really an issue.

What I know for sure is that the 1” spacers I had that weren’t wheel centric have been returned, and new 1” spacers that’s are hub and wheel centric are inbound.

If you have experience with the xlt let me know!
 
I ran their predecessor, Cooper Discover ATPs on my Suburban and they were quieter than my Falkens. They were also on the less aggressive end of an AT tire.


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I would have went with STT Pros if they weren’t $300/tire.
 
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The stt pro tread gaps scare me a bit. I think they’ll be a touch noisy. No experience with them though. It seems most everything 34” and up is pushing $300.

Sweet pics thanks for sharing @tbisaacs
 
Best I can do tonight on ridgies is 1640 with a 100 mail in. So 1540 assuming the rebate clears. That’s for 5 and includes the Local taxing. Install is either a couple hours of sweating or 130 more.

I’m in no real rush, may watch the prices for a few weeks.
 
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Agonized over tires all week.
The top two are 34” 285/70r18 NITTO ridge grapplers, 33.4” 275/70r18 milestar Patagonia mt. Also looked at the Atturo trail blade xt in 295/70r18.

I ended up not buying any. My new plan is to buy the arb twin and run my duratracs which have 7/32 thru the winter. For hwy use I have the 20”s still with the latitudes with 8/32 on them. Next spring I’ll revisit. I really just want 35” or so, and figure I might fall into some gears over the winter, and thus be prepared and do it up right.

Also might be some new 17” rims in my future.
 
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Had a flat battery today and got to use the lithium jumper I bought a couple months ago. After I figured out how to use it fired right up. Had 82% after sitting in the truck for 45 days of summer.

Drove 30 min and had to jump again. It got there but with some cranking this time down to 70% after second jump.

Drove about 45 min. At home batt was 12.0v. Reservoir was an inch or so low, so filled it up, measured 12.3v. Then started (no jump) and idled for 10 min. Up to 12.5v. Think it was just low water in the batt, but taking this as fair warning and adding the Slee dual kit to my shopping list.
 
Battery was down to 10 v this morning. Figure it was a goner, was a duralast gold 27f 3 years and 3 months old.

I looked at the group31 update and Slee tray, but decided to just get a 27f optima yellowtop instead.

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Spent some of the afternoon addressing a backup reverse camera for my rlc bumper. I couldn’t come to terms with taking the hatch apart and I didn’t find a good way to splice a camera into the Headunit another way. Was looking at captive monitor solutions, and saw a WiFi only option, kind of like an IP camera. Only $35 so gave it a try.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DH6KVD2?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Hooked it into the trailer wiring breakout box I put in a few weeks ago. Hacked up a mount from a galvanized shingle I had laying around and zip ties. If it seems solid I’ll paint and formally mount with some tapped screws.

I don’t use the reverse camera a lot, switching to the camera WiFi and turning on the app is a about 10 sec.

It also has video recording.

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