Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (2 Viewers)

[grinchy]

Have a few more hours on the Kenda Klever RT at 35 psi.
I like it a lot. Quiet tire. Wha to mean is quiet in impacts, it’s fine for that white noise, but still far too new to know how loud that will get. I mean quiet when the sidewall is compressed for a ridge, pot hole, manhole cover etc.
At this psi they run a bit more than 10% higher on freeway (40 or 41).
Also it can do this fancy mud art.

 

[dubyahard]

Have a few hours on the Kenda Klever RT at 35 psi.
I like it a lot. Quiet tire. Wha to mean is quiet in impacts, it’s fine for that white noise, but still far too new to know how loud that will get. I mean quiet when the sidewall is compressed for a ridge, pot hole, manhole cover etc.
At this psi they run a bit more than 10% higher on freeway (40 or 41).
Also it can do this fancy mud art.

View attachment 2899067

They finally have these back in stock in the size I want, 285/75R18. Have you had them in the snow at all?

 

[grinchy]

They finally have these back in stock in the size I want, 285/75R18. Have you had them in the snow at all?

a few miles around town on six inches of snow, then later in the week that snow became snow/compaction ice. Excellent, but I could make them slide if I wanted to on the compaction ice.
Some roadside bank play in 18” or so. I wasn’t out to get stuck, so nothing committing. Was fine.
My opinion is they’ll be fine to excellent. Just don’t have the data to back it up. Internet says they’re good in snow

I’ve done rain, dry, downpour, etc. all good. Good inroad manners too, better than my 129load AT for sure, but I think that is load and possibly weight related.

 

[grinchy]

They finally have these back in stock in the size I want, 285/75R18. Have you had them in the snow at all?

I'm a fan of the RT tire, but I specifically went to this size to get a lighter D/121 load. I had the AT in the 275/80r18 (also 129 load). It was fine but that load was pretty narrow in the PSI it was happy at. Like 36, 37 psi was good. but 35 too soft (porpoise), and 38 too hard. Just something to think on . . . I don't know if the RT will act the same way or not.

If you want to drive up and borrow my 129load ATs for a couple weeks to see what I mean you're welcome to it.

 

[dubyahard]

I'm a fan of the RT tire, but I specifically went to this size to get a lighter D/121 load. I had the AT in the 275/80r18 (also 129 load). It was fine but that load was pretty narrow in the PSI it was happy at. Like 36, 37 psi was good. but 35 too soft (porpoise), and 38 too hard. Just something to think on . . . I don't know if the RT will act the same way or not.

If you want to drive up and borrow my 129load ATs for a couple weeks to see what I mean you're welcome to it.

Thanks for the offer. I might just do that. I'm more interested in the R/Ts for now as I've been happy with the Ridge Grapplers and the blurred zone between AT and MT. Only others I was really considering we the Toyo Open Country A/T III and Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT.

 

[grinchy]

Thanks for the offer. I might just do that. I'm more interested in the R/Ts for now as I've been happy with the Ridge Grapplers and the blurred zone between AT and MT. Only others I was really considering we the Toyo Open Country A/T III and Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT.

I'm not trying to sell them to you (I mean I am trying to sell them, but not in this way for sure, the RT is straight up better, even in 129 load). They're just sitting here, so if that helps you make an informed decision with $1500 no problem for me, they aren't going anywhere . . .

I mean it should factor in your decision that 129load is a hefty tire. I imagine that in he 285/75r18 size all the loads will be the same anyhow, so might as well roll the RTs you want.
I had previously run 125load (Duratracs) and that was no where near as hefty as the 129load. The tire shop whined a lot when they saw the 129 load, for example.

 

[grinchy]

I see the nearest flotation size for the RT is 35x12.5x18 E 123load.

 

[DirtNap]

I already had larger diameter on here before, so I’m ‘preclearanced’...I have a mild sensor lift in front, maybe 1/2”.

I did remove the front mud flaps. I have moved the front of the front wheel liner forward one z clip space. I also did some very mild heat reshaping of the front wheel well above the body mount. Also removed the side steps front mount.

@grinchy, just want to check that this is the extent of your clearance work to make the 35x10.5's work. Thinking about going this route instead of my 315/70/17s

I'm keeping the stock wheels/tires for daily driving, but want to get a second setup for the occasional off-road trips. I have a set of 315/70r17s (nominally 34.4" x 12.4") & Rock Warriors left from my 2008LC. They are about the same size as the 35x12's TeCKis300 has, and I don't quite have the appetite for everything he had to do to get his to work. I was hoping that the 10.5 would mean it fits better with less rubbing, so less cutting. Any idea how my offset (RW=50) factors in vs. yours @+35 or TeCKis at Xmm plus spacers?

The LX is still in its "new to me" honeymoon and life is super busy, so if the 35x10.5 will fit much more easily, I'd rather spend the money than spend the time cutting up my new baby to try to get the 315/70/17s to work.
TIA/DN

 

[grinchy]

@grinchy, just want to check that this is the extent of your clearance work to make the 35x10.5's work. Thinking about going this route instead of my 315/70/17s

I'm keeping the stock wheels/tires for daily driving, but want to get a second setup for the occasional off-road trips. I have a set of 315/70r17s (nominally 34.4" x 12.4") & Rock Warriors left from my 2008LC. They are about the same size as the 35x12's TeCKis300 has, and I don't quite have the appetite for everything he had to do to get his to work. I was hoping that the 10.5 would mean it fits better with less rubbing, so less cutting. Any idea how my offset (RW=50) factors in vs. yours @+35 or TeCKis at Xmm plus spacers?

The LX is still in its "new to me" honeymoon and life is super busy, so if the 35x10.5 will fit much more easily, I'd rather spend the money than spend the time cutting up my new baby to try to get the 315/70/17s to work.
TIA/DN

I don't think that a 35" (or 34.5") tire will fit without reducing the offset below 50mm. The tire sidewall will be high enough to get into the UCA otherwise. You can of course confirm by just putting a ruler and level on your existing tires to see.
So I will assume you decide on the minimum spacer that will work with our lug nuts, 0.75" (19mm). Now your offset is 31mm.
At 31mm you will have no problem fitting skinny 35" tires. I have fit both 35.3" (manufacturer spec on a 275/80R18) and 34.75" (35x10.5r17) with minimal trimming at the similar 35mm offset.
The trimming details are earlier in this build, but it's basically pushing the front of the front wheel liner forward and resecuring (using existing HW and screws), and doing some minor work behind the front wheels with the stamped metal supports for the factory steps, some heat gun plastic shaping, and removing the mud flaps on the front wheels. Others have found a way to keep or replace the mud flaps.
Also removing the mud flaps on the rear wheels, though I have since replaced these with a generic mud flap cut to fit kit using mostly the stock attachment points.
I had the necessary clearance in a couple of hours, and I'm famously slow at all this stuff. Most would take 30 minutes probably.

I am currently fully in love with the Kenda Klever RT 35x10.5r17. Great tire and easy fitment for our rigs. Don't underestimate the benefit of a 121 load / D ride combined with AHC.

<edit: I should also say that I wouldn't recommend more than a big 33" without doing a gear ratio change . . .>

 

[DirtNap]

I don't think that a 35" (or 34.5") tire will fit without reducing the offset below 50mm. The tire sidewall will be high enough to get into the UCA otherwise. You can of course confirm by just putting a ruler and level on your existing tires to see.
So I will assume you decide on the minimum spacer that will work with our lug nuts, 0.75" (19mm). Now your offset is 31mm.
At 31mm you will have no problem fitting skinny 35" tires. I have fit both 35.3" (manufacturer spec on a 275/80R18) and 34.75" (35x10.5r17) with minimal trimming at the similar 35mm offset.
The trimming details are earlier in this build, but it's basically pushing the front of the front wheel liner forward and resecuring (using existing HW and screws), and doing some minor work behind the front wheels with the stamped metal supports for the factory steps, some heat gun plastic shaping, and removing the mud flaps on the front wheels. Others have found a way to keep or replace the mud flaps.
Also removing the mud flaps on the rear wheels, though I have since replaced these with a generic mud flap cut to fit kit using mostly the stock attachment points.
I had the necessary clearance in a couple of hours, and I'm famously slow at all this stuff. Most would take 30 minutes probably.

I am currently fully in love with the Kenda Klever RT 35x10.5r17. Great tire and easy fitment for our rigs. Don't underestimate the benefit of a 121 load / D ride combined with AHC.

<edit: I should also say that I wouldn't recommend more than a big 33" without doing a gear ratio change . . .>

Thanks for the quick and helpful reply. I have a couple of follow up questions:
1) Where in the 51-page epic that is your build thread is your first round of fitting? Do you remember roughly when you did it?

2) What are you suggesting with the level and ruler? I'm guessing you mean using the level to span the top and bottom (or left and right) sidewalls and then using the ruler as a depth gauge to measure distance to the rim's mounting surface? And maybe the reverse on the vehicle's wheel mount surface and distance from that plane to the UCA?

3) Since the 10.5" tires = 267mm (18mm less than stock) and the RW offset is 10mm less as well, I would have thought that a spacer wouldn't be needed (at least as it relates to hitting the UCA). Am I missing something here? (And I actually mean that, not in the "wtf are you thinking moron?" way that it may often be used online!) Or does the spacer push the wheel out enough to clear something in fender liner during travel or steering?

4) I'm still using the factory steps for now, so maybe this is all moot until I get some sliders/steps to replace them. I'm pretty interested in the MetalTech ones you have on. I'd prefer something more "stealth" like the Slee SliderSteps, but they don't appear to protect the front of the rocker panel. The Slee tube steps on my 08 were the same way, and I've come down slowly off a rock and landed on the rocker/mudflap area and sustained some damage there. Also, I know the AHC globes take some working around, but from what I could see, the MT ones seemed to have the stoughtest mounting situation. Still loving them? Any insights into your decision process? (Or a rough 'time stamp' on your build thread?)

Thanks!

 

[grinchy]

Thanks for the quick and helpful reply. I have a couple of follow up questions:
1) Where in the 51-page epic that is your build thread is your first round of fitting? Do you remember roughly when you did it?

2) What are you suggesting with the level and ruler? I'm guessing you mean using the level to span the top and bottom (or left and right) sidewalls and then using the ruler as a depth gauge to measure distance to the rim's mounting surface? And maybe the reverse on the vehicle's wheel mount surface and distance from that plane to the UCA?

3) Since the 10.5" tires = 267mm (18mm less than stock) and the RW offset is 10mm less as well, I would have thought that a spacer wouldn't be needed (at least as it relates to hitting the UCA). Am I missing something here? (And I actually mean that, not in the "wtf are you thinking moron?" way that it may often be used online!) Or does the spacer push the wheel out enough to clear something in fender liner during travel or steering?

4) I'm still using the factory steps for now, so maybe this is all moot until I get some sliders/steps to replace them. I'm pretty interested in the MetalTech ones you have on. I'd prefer something more "stealth" like the Slee SliderSteps, but they don't appear to protect the front of the rocker panel. The Slee tube steps on my 08 were the same way, and I've come down slowly off a rock and landed on the rocker/mudflap area and sustained some damage there. Also, I know the AHC globes take some working around, but from what I could see, the MT ones seemed to have the stoughtest mounting situation. Still loving them? Any insights into your decision process? (Or a rough 'time stamp' on your build thread?)

Thanks!

1) 275/80r18 tire fitment
2 and 3) I'm suggesting you go up from the inside of the tire vertically to determine how much vertical you have before the UCA. Then you can calc if the new height will rub or not. Toss in the narrowing of (285 (I assume) - 270 (KK RT has an aggressive sidewall)/2 -> 7.5mm (1/4"?). But based on my experience with 275/65r18 in a Duratrac, I'm not hopeful. The other reason to run spacers is the scrub radius, which needs to be adjusted as the wheel diameter increases. Coincidentally +35mm is a good scrub radius for 34 and 35" tall tires. I haven't tried to fit 35" tires without lower offset, so I don't know if it'll go or not, or how clearanceing would need to change. I used a piece of cardboard cut to a 35" diameter to try out fitment in the driveway when I was considering the 35s originally, as at that point not much was documented on 35" fit for the LX.
4) Very happy with the Sliders. Look at page 25 and 26, they were on during the skid fitment. There are also pictures on the Metaltech page that are better showing the coverage and build. I am completely biased as I worked with the Metaltech 4x4 team on the creation and my vehicle was one of the test mules. So perspective for me is lacking. But I'll do my best. They are super stout, five legs per side, more mounting length (they attach all the way back at the rlca mount), as well as 'L' shaped against the side and bottom of frame, it's more than any other slider for TLC or LX. Further, the cover over the globes makes a second 'box' section, so that also amps up the stiffness of the legs. The step portion is large but not too large, and is very similar as the other MT step designs (proven over much time). It is the strongest per FEA that MT has done. And they have a very long time in the armoring game. The drawbacks are weight, cost, and the fitting process is more involved as there are some holes to rivnut under the frame, and the AHC components are unbolted to put the vertical slider frame plate BEHIND them. All those drawbacks are the result of it being such a bombproof design. I'll never do anything that deserves such a bomber component, but I am a famously poor line selector, and tend to drive a bit faster than I should offroad, so I like have my bases covered. I've been very careful where I invested weight, and for sure wish they were lighter. But lighter has other tradeoffs I didn't want to make.

 

[grinchy]

so maybe this is all moot until I get some sliders/steps to replace them

I think you can run factory steps and 35s, there will be just one bracket in the front to cut and move out of they way. The step should still have plenty of other attachments and be fine. It has been about 4 years since I took those steps off, though, so factor that in. It was the first thing I did

 

[DirtNap]

I think you can run factory steps and 35s, there will be just one bracket in the front to cut and move out of they way. The step should still have plenty of other attachments and be fine. It has been about 4 years since I took those steps off, though, so factor that in. It was the first thing I did

Thanks for the links & the additional ideas and info. I'll check it out. I should probably mount up one of the 34.4's and use it as a test mule to give me a better understanding of what hits (or might hit) where vs. the 35/10.5.

 

[grinchy]

Oil change today. I’ve now used 6 oil filters in 23000 miles, I must be doing something wrong. I did use a couple for an oil flush and another for the ceratec, I guess it’s ok.

Front skid is super fubared. Had to jack it up to fit it, that will never do. The dent is a good two inches deep. No damage to the front diff bracket / carrier things, or anything else, so did its job.
Think I’ll replace with the Asfir when they get the petrol 200 parts on the market.

changed to new mcguard spline lug nuts to go with the new wheels. Shiny.

 

[tbisaacs]

These trucks are too heavy for an aluminum belly plate IMO. One hit and they are done.

 

[grinchy]

These trucks are too heavy for an aluminum belly plate IMO. One hit and they are done.

Maybe. I think it more the lack of internal reinforcement structure at the bend point (design instead of material issue). It was a heavy, truck stopped now! kind of hit, going about 20. I was glad the airbag didn’t deploy.
I was on the brakes but most of it went into that material.

 

[grinchy]

Looked at the options for new front and engine skid:
Asfir 4x4 (AL) - looked at the diesel skid, the coming petrol may be different. Diesel didn't have the reinforcement I was looking for. Otherwise it looked good. I run the transmission skid and like it.
ARB (steel)- didn't seriously consider, had already decided against in previous shopping for differential skid options
Ironman4x4 (steel) - looked like it wouldn't match up to my existing stuff
Budbuilt (1/8", 3/16", Stainless, AL) - Front skid Double reinforced where the TC skid deformed. Available in a lot of materials. Front skid requires engine skid purchase. Looks like I can make it work pretty easy with my existing transmission skid. Pricey.
Dissent (AL)- Shows unavailable, probably would have some trouble mating to my transmission skid even if available. Front skid is a novel design which I kind of like.
Gobi (AL)- not a lot of info, probably vaporware
Rival 4x4 (AL) - like their products, run the fuel skid. Didn't like how the engine skid is mated to the transmission skid, looked like it might be a tough match for my existing skid. No reinforcement for the front to engine skid joint. I did like that the Rival front has oil filter access.
Victory 4x4 (Steel) - seems to have the same design as the TC skid, no reinforcement at the bend. Looked like a bear to put on and off for filter change.

Ordered a Budbuilt stainless front and 3/16" PC Red engine skid. I think due to the PC this is about 12 weeks leadtime. Will continue to run the old busted upness until it comes in.

 

[DirtNap]

I am not one to stand between a Mudder and upgrades, so looking forward to seeing the new skids. But have you tried beating it back into shape with a BFH?

 

[grinchy]

Thought about it. But decided it wasn't likely to come off again until the replacements show up.
Was a bit leary about fatigue on AL (bend and rebend). Not sure how much I trust it in that situation. Probably would be fine though.
If I had a brake I certainly would have flattened it out, not sure though if it would be 'as good as new' though.

 

[grinchy]

Added some combination lights to the rear bumper. Was all set to cut a hole and mount them behind the bumper, but there wasn’t space on the spindle side. Drilling four holes for surface mount decidedly easier.
Not wired up yet, but waiting for a five core stranded cable.
I’ll be making a cover plate for the old reverse light cutout.

Also fixed my license plate light.