Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (1 Viewer)

[AnyMal]

Local o’reillys not carrying the Deka rebrand 31T any longer. Now a made in Mexico. Claims to still have all the good vibration treatment internals. I guess we’ll see. It has a nice handle at least.
Tender says it has 75% charge. 2/22 date.
I wish it was a LTO.
Yellow top was struggling to maintain 12v. It’s been installed less than four years.
I look forward to removing the pull up diode from the alts circuit.
Will be making the extended battery clamps from some AL bar and fittings I got for the LTO project.

View attachment 2929142

Part # 31-5 manufactured in PA for me bought last weekend with same date stamp.

Its the 31P post model, yours looks to be threaded top. I see none in stock in seattle though… did i get lucky for once?

Can you still order from lowes?

 

[grinchy]

Yeah they took the Deka rebrand down and it’s special order now. I want the threaded posts, so all good.
I’m not too worried as long as it goes for three years. I still hope to replace reasonably soon with an LTO once stocks normalize again.

 

[AnyMal]

Yeah they took the Deka rebrand down and it’s special order now. I want the threaded posts, so all good.
I’m not too worried as long as it goes for three years. I still hope to replace reasonably soon with an LTO once stocks normalize again.

Did you ever make those terminals? Ill take a set of your handywork! I need to order some but my ghetto clamp is working fine and completely cool to the touch even in hot engine bay. Eh.

 

[grinchy]

Got a foot of 3/16” by 1” copper bar at the metal distributor. $20. Used about 3” of it.
Am painting it with liquid electric tape now just for giggles.
Measurement revealed an extension of 1.25” was required.
Bent up the bar so the nut under the post would clear.
Putting a disconnect on the negative so no fab required for that side.

 

[DirtNap]

Unfortunately I like AL for this and I don't have an AL welder. Is there a good AL epoxy that could deal with these non strength/cosmetic matching? It would be labor intensive, but my time is free

I was looking into this recently, and 3M has some products that would fit the bill. Designed for structural repairs for autobody. Thought I saved more links, but peep this 3M Collision Repair YouTube video. The stuff is legit.

 

[grinchy]

Fit the group 31. Side with the disconnect(neg) no real drama.
Positive I learned that although the post was in the right place, there wasn’t any slack in the pos wire to elevate it.
Maybe possibly there might be room to slide the bar (3/16), but not the new post I had which had wrench flats on it.
So I just made a new bar (3 1/2” hole to hole) and used the existing pos screw terminal.
Put a kink in this bar too so it would fit flat to both terminals.
Flattened and redrilled the stock battery clamp.
Cut one short edge (toward engine) off the battery tray.
Removed the diode on alt-s.
Car running like it should.
We will see if the new bat takes a charge, if it does all is well with the world.
I have some vinyl to cover the posts coming soon.

 

[grinchy]

New battery was 75% when I picked it up. Didn’t think much on it. Charged it up and installed it.
It’s been 30 hours in the truck, including 3 hours of driving, and it’s now at just 50%.
I have a voltmeter in the car and it shows what I would think are correct alternator voltages, but I’m beginning to suspect that the alternator might be in the way out.
I’ve got the battery back on a tender and if it tanks again I’ll be returning it and swapping for another. If that one tanks it will be new alternator time.

 

[grinchy]

Deposit placed on a Rival4x4 2008-2015 aluminum front. Should be in country in April.
Thanks to @xhrix123 for walking thru the potential fit difficulties with me (he did a Rhino 2016+) on a gen1 LX.

 

[kwelhand]

Deposit placed on a Rival4x4 2008-2015 aluminum front. Should be in country in April.
Thanks to @xhrix123 for walking thru the potential fit difficulties with me (he did a Rhino 2016+) on a gen1 LX.

View attachment 2941466

Nice… how much did it cost you?
Really love the look!

 

[grinchy]

Nice… how much did it cost you?
Really love the look!

$1699 includes powdercoat and shipping

Note that this is not a bolt on installation for an LX570, additional trimming of the front plastic bumper and probably the Rival4x4 bumper will be necessary to fit.

The winch plate will bolt up no issues.

Here are the install instructions if you want to take a look. <fixed attachment>

It is a bolt on installation for the TLC, different SKU for the 2016+ and 2008-2015.

 

[kwelhand]

$1699 includes powdercoat and shipping

Note that this is not a bolt on installation for an LX570, additional trimming of the front plastic bumper and probably the Rival4x4 bumper will be necessary to fit.

The winch plate will bolt up no issues.

Here are the install instructions if you want to take a look.

It is a bolt on installation for the TLC, different SKU for the 2016+ and 2008-2015.

I have been following your build for many months and always find your thread informative!
Can't wait to see your transformation! keep us updated.
That price is really good... I might have to consider.

 

[grinchy]

I have been following your build for many months and always find your thread informative!
Can't wait to see your transformation! keep us updated.
That price is really good... I might have to consider.

We will see if it’s a bargain or a nightmare bargain!

Good deal for a TLC in aluminum for sure.

 

[tbisaacs]

We will see if it’s a bargain or a nightmare bargain!

Good deal for a TLC in aluminum for sure.

You should come check out the cutline on my ironman to give you an idea. You might have some headlight interference and will likely have to trim the bottom row of the grill for that body line.

 

[BVE]

Does that Rival bumper sit just below the front of the headlights? Looks like it mounts a little high and could cause more damage in front collision. I‘ve eyed these but can’t tell, they look great though.

 

[grinchy]

Does that Rival bumper sit just below the front of the headlights? Looks like it mounts a little high and could cause more damage in front collision. I‘ve eyed these but can’t tell, they look great though.

On a TLC it's a full bumper cover replacement, should have the necessary 1/2" or 5/8" gap all around. On an LX570, this is still to be determined.

 

[grinchy]

You should come check out the cutline on my ironman to give you an idea. You might have some headlight interference and will likely have to trim the bottom row of the grill for that body line.

I'm hoping it comes in about 1/2" below the headlights like the render shows, but it may snug right up to them and have to be contoured.
For the grill the rival has a wide flat there, similar to a traditional bull bar. Not sure which will get cut, the grill or the bumper. One reason I went with the 2008-2015 bumper instead of the 2016+ was that this area was wider on the gen1/gen1 and I thought it would be easier to cut if I have to trim in the bumper. Not sure how I feel about having the grill overbite the bumper.

 

[xhrix123]

I'm hoping it comes in about 1/2" below the headlights like the render shows, but it may snug right up to them and have to be contoured.
For the grill the rival has a wide flat there, similar to a traditional bull bar. Not sure which will get cut, the grill or the bumper. One reason I went with the 2008-2015 bumper instead of the 2016+ was that this area was wider on the gen1/gen1 and I thought it would be easier to cut if I have to trim in the bumper. Not sure how I feel about having the grill overbite the bumper.

With a bit of patience in the install it should all work out!!!!

Regarding the overbite in the pics that you sent I could see based on the area next to the headlight that has the original bumper there was a bit of pressure causing some lifting. Maybe a tiny bit of widening the bumper a couple of mm should fix this.

Cheers!!!

 

[grinchy]

I know we all run a bit . . . heavy . . . but writing it down makes it real.
Net weights:
Sliders - 150 lb
Rear - 100 lb
Front - 60 lb
Skids - 100 lb (front to back plus RLCA and rear shocks)
Tires - 100 lb
Winch - 50 lb
Drawer - 40 lb
Fridge - 30 lb
SubTank - 30 lb
Misc - 30 lb
-----
690lb added
100lb removed (3rd row)
——
590lb
<edit update a bit and add 3rd row)

The LX has 7400 GVWR against 6000 lb empty. So 1400 lbs of payload. That doesn't include people.
If my family of five drives to the grocery store, we're at GVWR.

 

[xhrix123]

I know we all run a bit . . . heavy . . . but writing it down makes it real.
Net weights:
Sliders - 150 lb
Rear - 100 lb
Front - 100 lb
Skids - 100 lb (front to back plus RLCA and rear shocks)
Tires - 100 lb
Winch - 50 lb
Drawer - 40 lb
Fridge - 30 lb
SubTank - 30 lb
Misc - 30 lb
-----
730 lb added

The LX has 7400 GVWR against 6000 lb empty. So 1400 lbs of payload. That doesn't include people.
If my family of five drives to the grocery store, we're at GVWR.

I think you have all the plus but not the minuses.

Unless you ket the 3rd row, I would say those seats weight 150lbs, and I took carpet and everything underneath out so minus another 20.

Remove about 50 lbs from the front, about 10 for the rear.

40lbs from the original sliders

Original skid plates depending how much you took off could be about 80lbs

I removed all the AHC and went with Kings. Must have been at least net 200lbs removed.

Maybe your is different, but I am guessing maximum you are +500lbs NET increase.

For sure on mine I am probably at that MAX with the AHC changes.

Cheers

 

[grinchy]

Yeah it varies by application. I have actual net weights there for everything but front bumper (60lb net 40 removed 100 total for Al front). But most aren’t running a Al front bumper.

Good point on the seats, 3rd row I think is 100 lbs (50 each, maybe less?)
The middle row is probably 125 or so, the 2/3 side I bet is 75 lbs.

My sliders are super stout but they are the heaviest addition, even more net than the front + winch!