Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570

[grinchy]

Wired up the new rear lights. Took some time to address several years of various accessories wiring at the back, now all nicely buttoned up again. They work, but I’ll probably add an additional reverse light. I got spoiled by the two dedicated reverse spots.
Swapped an engine skid to @raincityrider for a tire winch. My stock brackets have gone missing, so I made a couple from 2” aluminum 1/4” angle. Still in process, but I’ve got a dry fit done so not much left. Fingers crossed the spare will fit . . .
I want to use the tire swingout as a dedicated bike rack mount.

 

[grinchy]

Clearances very tight with the sub tank installed, but was able to find a mix of short sockets, stubby wrenches and patience and got the tire winch back up.
Winch tool were still in the oem toolkit, though I thought I’d never need them again.
Tire runs about even with the diff pumpkin.
Could be worse
That’s a well worn 35x10.5r17. It has about 6/32nd tread in the center.
You need to cut quite a lot off the top of the winch channel to clear the tank.
If I was to do this again I wouldn’t mess with the rivnuts and just bolt and nut it.

 

[grinchy]

Looking at putting in different studs, only getting 5 or 6 turns on the front lug nuts.
Picked up an OEM size stud from Oreilly's, $4, to verify measurements
Length - 50.94mm
Knurl - 16.5mm
Threaded length - 29mm
Marked 10.9
Dorman Part - 610-528

I'm looking at Dorman 610-004 (L=60mm, Knurl - 16.0mm) for the replacement. Have a box of those on order and will be comparing. Should be able to pick up 10mm threaded (6 turns). Word in another forum these were running 16.3mm knurl, which should be close enough.

 

[grinchy]

dorman 610-004
Knurl: 15.95 mm (spec 16.0)
Length of thread - 48.25mm
Overall 65mm

So they are running about 0.6mm less wide. Is this too much difference?

 

[grinchy]

Two wheel studs seem available with 16.3mm knurl and long enough length to make it worth while.
Nice Products S-6330 - can't seem to find a distributor to ship to US
KYO-EI HUB BOLT M14xP1.5 SBLC - $9 each

I just went out and checked my extended lug nuts, which don't have the McGuard spinning washer, but do have 9 turns of engagement on the front (McGuard had only 4+ - yikes). I'm just going to put the Extended lugs back on.

Full set of 20 McGuard lugs and the 22 mm socket will go to eBay.

 

[grinchy]

it's no wonder that most tlc bumpers will fit the lx with minor changes. some amateur hour overlays

 

[TeCKis300]

Thinking about an identity change? What pronoun shall she identify with? All kidding of course.

Yeah, I'd bet the changes are pretty minor to hang the LC facade off the front end. Or go straight into a 300-series conversion - This kit turns your Land Cruiser 200 into an LC 300 lookalike - Auto News - https://www.autoindustriya.com/auto-industry-news/this-kit-turns-your-land-cruiser-200-into-an-lc-300-lookalike.html

 

[grinchy]

Thinking about an identity change? What pronoun shall she identify with? All kidding of course.

Yeah, I'd bet the changes are pretty minor to hang the LC facade off the front end. Or go straight into a 300-series conversion - This kit turns your Land Cruiser 200 into an LC 300 lookalike - Auto News - https://www.autoindustriya.com/auto-industry-news/this-kit-turns-your-land-cruiser-200-into-an-lc-300-lookalike.html

No, looking to see what the work might be to use a full replacement front bumper. The kind that contours the TLC lights and grill.

 

[bigezvol]

Looked at the options for new front and engine skid:
Asfir 4x4 (AL) - looked at the diesel skid, the coming petrol may be different. Diesel didn't have the reinforcement I was looking for. Otherwise it looked good. I run the transmission skid and like it.
ARB (steel)- didn't seriously consider, had already decided against in previous shopping for differential skid options
Ironman4x4 (steel) - looked like it wouldn't match up to my existing stuff
Budbuilt (1/8", 3/16", Stainless, AL) - Front skid Double reinforced where the TC skid deformed. Available in a lot of materials. Front skid requires engine skid purchase. Looks like I can make it work pretty easy with my existing transmission skid. Pricey.
Dissent (AL)- Shows unavailable, probably would have some trouble mating to my transmission skid even if available. Front skid is a novel design which I kind of like.
Gobi (AL)- not a lot of info, probably vaporware
Rival 4x4 (AL) - like their products, run the fuel skid. Didn't like how the engine skid is mated to the transmission skid, looked like it might be a tough match for my existing skid. No reinforcement for the front to engine skid joint. I did like that the Rival front has oil filter access.
Victory 4x4 (Steel) - seems to have the same design as the TC skid, no reinforcement at the bend. Looked like a bear to put on and off for filter change.

Ordered a Budbuilt stainless front and 3/16" PC Red engine skid. I think due to the PC this is about 12 weeks leadtime. Will continue to run the old busted upness until it comes in.

Why didn't you seriously consider the ARB? Shopping for skids so...

 

[TeCKis300]

No, looking to see what the work might be to use a full replacement front bumper. The kind that contours the TLC lights and grill.

Gotcha. I could be wrong but the majority of the profile difference and challenge may be how the LX facade is projected further forward.

 

[grinchy]

with the bumper

 

[TeCKis300]

^Ah, now I'm understanding! All y'all are leveling up your rigs.

 

[grinchy]

Why didn't you seriously consider the ARB? Shopping for skids so...

originally I put a lot of search (and acquisition) effort into 1/4" aluminum. I thought it would be good enough for my use case re: impacts, and I loved the lower weight. Unfortunately I'm a terrible driver, so I had an impact that the AL protected componentry, but wrecked the skid. So I had new requirements in the replacement search (front and engine skid only), I was after a specific type of reinforcement to address the failure I experienced in a certain impact, and compatibility with my existing skid investments for transmission back thru transfer case.

Things I didn't like about the ARB (from original search): Not aluminum, didn't really see it as much different from front skid in gauge or reinforcement. Most important to me, it was NOT weight bearing for the Transfer Case (no crossmember behind the transfer case to support the TC skid), and it wasn't going to be compatible with the transfer skid I did select, as they use the same holes. @tbisaacs among many others are running the ARB and would have more useful feedback than mine on it's actual performance.

 

[grinchy]

Gotcha. I could be wrong but the majority of the profile difference and challenge may be how the LX facade is projected further forward.

Yep. It would seem to me that simply removing the top horizontal that matches the TLC profile and adding a new horizontal to match the LX profile (and address the fender wing differences) would be pretty straightforward.
It could also possibly address the 1/2" to 3/4" depth difference at the same time.
Unfortunately I like AL for this and I don't have an AL welder. Is there a good AL epoxy that could deal with these non strength/cosmetic matching? It would be labor intensive, but my time is free

 

[bigezvol]

originally I put a lot of search (and acquisition) effort into 1/4" aluminum. I thought it would be good enough for my use case re: impacts, and I loved the lower weight. Unfortunately I'm a terrible driver, so I had an impact that the AL protected componentry, but wrecked the skid. So I had new requirements in the replacement search (front and engine skid only), I was after a specific type of reinforcement to address the failure I experienced in a certain impact, and compatibility with my existing skid investments for transmission back thru transfer case.

Things I didn't like about the ARB (from original search): Not aluminum, didn't really see it as much different from front skid in gauge or reinforcement. Most important to me, it was NOT weight bearing for the Transfer Case (no crossmember behind the transfer case to support the TC skid), and it wasn't going to be compatible with the transfer skid I did select, as they use the same holes. @tbisaacs among many others are running the ARB and would have more useful feedback than mine on it's actual performance.

Didn't see Slee's on your list... I assume because it likely wont' match up with what you already have. Also, IronMan doesn't appear to have anything on their site for any 200 series.

 

[grinchy]

Didn't see Slee's on your list... I assume because it likely wont' match up with what you already have. Also, IronMan doesn't appear to have anything on their site for any 200 series.

Slee was Out of stock . . . and is sold as a full package, I only needed the first two pieces.
Ironman does have 200 skids, they are similar to the ARB product in gauge, but don't even bother with anything for the transfer case.
They also had a fuel skid.

 

[tbisaacs]

originally I put a lot of search (and acquisition) effort into 1/4" aluminum. I thought it would be good enough for my use case re: impacts, and I loved the lower weight. Unfortunately I'm a terrible driver, so I had an impact that the AL protected componentry, but wrecked the skid. So I had new requirements in the replacement search (front and engine skid only), I was after a specific type of reinforcement to address the failure I experienced in a certain impact, and compatibility with my existing skid investments for transmission back thru transfer case.

Things I didn't like about the ARB (from original search): Not aluminum, didn't really see it as much different from front skid in gauge or reinforcement. Most important to me, it was NOT weight bearing for the Transfer Case (no crossmember behind the transfer case to support the TC skid), and it wasn't going to be compatible with the transfer skid I did select, as they use the same holes. @tbisaacs among many others are running the ARB and would have more useful feedback than mine on it's actual performance.

I do believe the design of the ARB skids are flawed but it a) can be mostly mitigated and b) is fine for the price.

The big criticism most people have is around the transfer case area. The skids ship with a mount for the rear of the trans skids that has thick aluminum spacers. If you use these spacers the trans skid overlaps with the transfer case skid. I could absolutely imagine jamming something hard up there to cause enough deflection to damage the transfer case.

Good news, you absolutely don’t need the spacers. I took mine out, no overlap.

As for weight bearing transfer case skid -
For better or worse it’s using the same mounts as the OEM steel cage that goes around the case. So it’s no better but certainly no worse.

Last complaint is no access hole for oil filter. This is honestly not a big deal but do think other skids solve this better.

 

[TeCKis300]

Yep. It would seem to me that simply removing the top horizontal that matches the TLC profile and adding a new horizontal to match the LX profile (and address the fender wing differences) would be pretty straightforward.
It could also possibly address the 1/2" to 3/4" depth difference at the same time.
Unfortunately I like AL for this and I don't have an AL welder. Is there a good AL epoxy that could deal with these non strength/cosmetic matching? It would be labor intensive, but my time is free

There are some AL brazing product on the market but IMO, they're actually pretty hard to use. You could try at the risk of distorting the bumper Maybe you could use an epoxy putty to get what you want with some shaping and sanding?

For the amount of fabrication you seem to enjoy doing, you might consider stepping into welding. There's never been a better time and the barrier and cost to entry is far lower than before. A $450 120V 140amp MIG welder from HF, add $150 spool gun to do aluminum, a $100 tank of gas and you could be in business. Add in the many youtube videos and it's totally doable. You'll be armed to do practically any steel or aluminum project going forward.

 

[grinchy]

There are some AL brazing product on the market but IMO, they're actually pretty hard to use. You could try at the risk of distorting the bumper Maybe you could use an epoxy putty to get what you want with some shaping and sanding?

For the amount of fabrication you seem to enjoy doing, you might consider stepping into welding. There's never been a better time and the barrier and cost to entry is far lower than before. A $450 120V 140amp MIG welder from HF, add $150 spool gun to do aluminum, a $100 tank of gas and you could be in business. Add in the many youtube videos and it's totally doable. You'll be armed to do practically any steel or aluminum project going forward.

Oh I'd love to be able to weld aluminum, but based on my results in steel, I am very far from that skill level.

 

[grinchy]

Local o’reillys not carrying the Deka rebrand 31T any longer. Now a made in Mexico. Claims to still have all the good vibration treatment internals. I guess we’ll see. It has a nice handle at least.
Tender says it has 75% charge. 2/22 date.
I wish it was a LTO.
Yellow top was struggling to maintain 12v. It’s been installed less than four years.
I look forward to removing the pull up diode from the alts circuit.
Will be making the extended battery clamps from some AL bar and fittings I got for the LTO project.