Underside looks great. Those Total Chaos LCAs must have ran you a pretty penny!
Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570
- Thread starter grinchy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #442
Stock photo. I just ordered the skid. Someday it will arrive and I’ll get a in situ shot.
- Thread starter
- #443
Finished up the rear camera relocate to the RLC bumper swingarm. It was time consuming, but I'm pretty happy with the results.
If I want I can bend it down a little and see the tips of the lug nuts as well as have good view 20 feet back or so.
If I want I can bend it down a little and see the tips of the lug nuts as well as have good view 20 feet back or so.
- Thread starter
- #444
last one
- Thread starter
- #445
Belt tensioner, idler pulley, and ribbed v belt (serpentine belt) replaced. Used the Dayco kit.
Some grit in the idler pulley, a faint whirr in the belt tensioner. The new tensioner, which replaced a Dayco tensioner, noticeably stiffer pressure.
Put the 6mm and 12mm tensioner bolts at 15 lb ft. the Idler pulley at 31 lb ft.
If you put the new belt on and it won't tension, you need to loop the tensioner the other direction. Saying for a friend.
Much much quieter engine bay.
Previous belt no cracking, I've added to my on car parts bin.
Some grit in the idler pulley, a faint whirr in the belt tensioner. The new tensioner, which replaced a Dayco tensioner, noticeably stiffer pressure.
Put the 6mm and 12mm tensioner bolts at 15 lb ft. the Idler pulley at 31 lb ft.
If you put the new belt on and it won't tension, you need to loop the tensioner the other direction. Saying for a friend.
Much much quieter engine bay.
Previous belt no cracking, I've added to my on car parts bin.
- Thread starter
- #446
Working on the roof mounted front light. Clearly a lot of opinions on if this is the best place for a light. I absolutely see the logic of having the light lower, in the front fascia somewhere. However Santa didn't bring me a front bumper this year, so in a weak moment when I was flush with success from getting the TLC rack on, I ordered a set of the stainless brackets for the TLC roof rack . . . and then a generic 42" lightbar to drop in them.
It's a (let me read this again) Rigidhorse. I absolutely need to consult with China on naming, I have some rechargeable batteries called Arupoo. Some stuff just doesn't translate. Anyhow:
Amazon product ASIN B07MCNYV6P
No power up there yet to test with, but it looks like it will make light. There are some more expensive brands that have fancier optics (I guess) and throw better light (probably), but I'm pretty confident this will be fine. WIll report on actual performance when I see it.
As for mounting the brackets are tricker than trick. A few min on the drill press to drill the necessary holes.
The light required four padding washers (4mm, 3/16") to bolt up, so nearly an exact fit for width. Bolt up a true PITA, as I did it with the cross bar on the car.
I'm going to drive this (and the associated scene lights when they come in) with another bluetooth relay mounted on the roof. That wiring is still pending.
It's a (let me read this again) Rigidhorse. I absolutely need to consult with China on naming, I have some rechargeable batteries called Arupoo. Some stuff just doesn't translate. Anyhow:
Amazon product ASIN B07MCNYV6P
No power up there yet to test with, but it looks like it will make light. There are some more expensive brands that have fancier optics (I guess) and throw better light (probably), but I'm pretty confident this will be fine. WIll report on actual performance when I see it.
As for mounting the brackets are tricker than trick. A few min on the drill press to drill the necessary holes.
The light required four padding washers (4mm, 3/16") to bolt up, so nearly an exact fit for width. Bolt up a true PITA, as I did it with the cross bar on the car.
I'm going to drive this (and the associated scene lights when they come in) with another bluetooth relay mounted on the roof. That wiring is still pending.
sweet! I may get one for my rear lighting
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Looks great, and that price is nice.
Wildyoats brackets are awesome, and I highly recommend them. Saves a a lot of fabrication and screwing about.
I went with the Black Oak, but probably should have done what you did. The lightbar is way more light than I need, especially given the rare use it will see.
The only thing I've found as a tradeoff is a bit more wind noise, but with the sunroof liner closed it is hardly noticeable.
- Thread starter
- #449
Shipping update on the fuel skid. It's on the slow boat from Australia, should be here in June.
- Thread starter
- #450
Proof of concept on a flip design for my scene lights. Using a random hinge. Have lots of improvements to go, but the basic answer is: Yes.
I see that you too have that thick blanket of pollen EVERYWHERE.
- Thread starter
- #452
Three pollen mothers in my yard. They drop something piney every season. Just PNW life
- Thread starter
- #453
New dsp came in today. Got 7 of eight channels repinned have to flip the negative on half the channels to match to the dsp connector to my home brew connectors. Looks like it will fit with one oF the soundstream stealth but not two Without rebuilding the platform. I was hopeful for two the dsp is only 25w rms per channel, the stealth is 90.
I think I just convinced myself to cut some plywood and do it right.
Now I’m considering rewiring the sub to bridge one voice coil per side on the 4 channel amp. That would get around 500 w to the sub. I do like this idea. I can use the other soundstream for the four woofers, and that leaves only tweets and some small full range on the 25w dsp.
it does require pulling the sub to rewire the coils.
planning!
I think I just convinced myself to cut some plywood and do it right.
Now I’m considering rewiring the sub to bridge one voice coil per side on the 4 channel amp. That would get around 500 w to the sub. I do like this idea. I can use the other soundstream for the four woofers, and that leaves only tweets and some small full range on the 25w dsp.
it does require pulling the sub to rewire the coils.
planning!
Let us know how that lightbar holds up through weather, etc!
- Thread starter
- #455
Will do! So far all sunny days since I put it up there. I'll have it down a couple more times as I wire and paint. The weatherstrip I put on the bottom (it contacts the roof for six inches or so) that isn't actually in contact with the roof is already peeling in the heat . . . have to figure something else out.
I went with roof contact as I thought it might minimize whistle and I wanted it as low as possible. Right now only a few mm taller than a roof bar.
- Thread starter
- #456
Lots of trial fitting, but got the two blind holes (template failed me) in for the plywood base.
Definitely fits two amps and the dsp and the RSE. RSE turns out to be the source of a pretty strong ozone smell that I was having after about 90 min of driving; odd as it's been in since 2010. I wish now that my positive wire was about 16" longer, but you can't have everything.
Unlike the last configuration, I should be able to get to the amp gains (still have to pull the seat but not disconnect everything). This may or may not be useful.
Going with this setup initially:
Subwoofer - 3ohm bridged at 250ish w. The amp is rated at 4 ohm bridged, so this may be a short experiment.
Front tweeters - 4 ohm 90 w each
Front woofers - 2 ohm 125 w each
Rear woofers - 4 ohm 90 w each
Center, Rear Tweeters, Rear Door speakers - 4 or 6 ohm, 25 w each
I have the extension kit but might have lost my willpower to pull the rear interior again and put an amp back there for the 500x1 experience. I'm going to see how it sounds with above configuration first.
Definitely fits two amps and the dsp and the RSE. RSE turns out to be the source of a pretty strong ozone smell that I was having after about 90 min of driving; odd as it's been in since 2010. I wish now that my positive wire was about 16" longer, but you can't have everything.
Unlike the last configuration, I should be able to get to the amp gains (still have to pull the seat but not disconnect everything). This may or may not be useful.
Going with this setup initially:
Subwoofer - 3ohm bridged at 250ish w. The amp is rated at 4 ohm bridged, so this may be a short experiment.
Front tweeters - 4 ohm 90 w each
Front woofers - 2 ohm 125 w each
Rear woofers - 4 ohm 90 w each
Center, Rear Tweeters, Rear Door speakers - 4 or 6 ohm, 25 w each
I have the extension kit but might have lost my willpower to pull the rear interior again and put an amp back there for the 500x1 experience. I'm going to see how it sounds with above configuration first.
- Thread starter
- #457
Balances set. Definitely don’t need to dedicate an amp to the sub, but may to get the rear tweets off the dsp, that 25w doesn’t go far.
sounds a plus. Even got my moldy old radio shack spl meter out to make it official. Sub kicks in around 30hz and I’m flat out to about 18.
some nice sound generators and sine sweepers on iOS.
the dsp has a digital in. F18 has a digital out. so I have bit perfect cds. DVDs don’t work audio or video, as the dsp isn’t licensed for dts or dd. However I do get the 2 channel from cd/dvd/DVDs via the f18 line level. Pass thru on the aux and radio unaffected As before.
no ground loop yet . . .
it will almost all fit under the seat too, very close just have to puzzle over it a Bit.
sounds a plus. Even got my moldy old radio shack spl meter out to make it official. Sub kicks in around 30hz and I’m flat out to about 18.
some nice sound generators and sine sweepers on iOS.
the dsp has a digital in. F18 has a digital out. so I have bit perfect cds. DVDs don’t work audio or video, as the dsp isn’t licensed for dts or dd. However I do get the 2 channel from cd/dvd/DVDs via the f18 line level. Pass thru on the aux and radio unaffected As before.
no ground loop yet . . .
it will almost all fit under the seat too, very close just have to puzzle over it a Bit.
- Thread starter
- #458
Testing
- Thread starter
- #459
Here are the amps buttoned up and with the space hog rse. I rolled the dice and left the spidf connected. It has a shield ground on it that isn’t at the same potential as the other grounds I think I can put a cap on it, or maybe just orphan the hurl and use the digital signal only With th other ground. Sometimes it buzzes very slightly sometimes not. No alternator whine now, so that is good.
it was some work to get the controller into the ashtray, but it is friction fit and folds away hidden Now. Very clean. So close to just dropping in, maybe a 1/16 or 1/8 “. I removed the controller casing and it fit.
it was some work to get the controller into the ashtray, but it is friction fit and folds away hidden Now. Very clean. So close to just dropping in, maybe a 1/16 or 1/8 “. I removed the controller casing and it fit.
- Thread starter
- #460
Update from Israel, the transfer case skid has shipped.
Also finally got the skid paint I ordered five weeks ago over the weekend, so I can treat/paint the Trail Tailor Rear LCA and shock skids.
Also finally got the skid paint I ordered five weeks ago over the weekend, so I can treat/paint the Trail Tailor Rear LCA and shock skids.
