Are your RCAs wrapped/shielded with a ground?
Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter grinchy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #422
Yes*
the potion of the signal path inside the oem cableI don’t know the wires themselves are not shielded, but they do run a + and - so I think that means yes.
the rca pigtail i soldered on is not. That will need to be wrapped. Or I may ditch it for a 1/8” female. Aside from this six inch section I can say fully shielded.
dmc
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Looks good. Once the weather warms up I'll see if I can get my friend to make some more, maybe a bit closer to the LX trim color.
- Thread starter
- #426
Used my capacitor jumper today for a neighbor rescue. Worked perfect. They only had a 4 cylinder so it spun over super easy. Very pleased with the whole thing.
they are off to buy the smaller version for their car. I used their “dead” battery to charge it up too. Just love the look of astonishment
Amazon product ASIN B07Q4885P4
they are off to buy the smaller version for their car. I used their “dead” battery to charge it up too. Just love the look of astonishment
Amazon product ASIN B07Q4885P4
- Thread starter
- #427
I have just ordered a 6v generic camera on Aliexpress, to replace my swingarm mounted Wi-Fi camera. The Wi-Fi camera has been non-op since IOS 13 was introduced. IOS 13 had some basic wi-fi security measures in it, and the IOS app was not updated (nor do I expect it to be updated at this point) to include these. I'm going to be working on the swingarm later in the spring to revise my mounting for the rotopax, figured I'd include the camera in the day.
Current plan is to wire it up in parallel to the existing reverse camera, and have a three way switch control which one is live. That way if I have to go sans swingarm I will use the stock, and if not, I can use the the swingarm mount. Not sure yet where the switch will end up . . .
Current plan is to wire it up in parallel to the existing reverse camera, and have a three way switch control which one is live. That way if I have to go sans swingarm I will use the stock, and if not, I can use the the swingarm mount. Not sure yet where the switch will end up . . .
- Thread starter
- #428
Finished the install on the four low pressure accumlators / globes. Details over in the replace thread:
forum.ih8mud.com
LX570 AHC Globe/Accumulator Replacement
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #429
Oil change today 224xxx. Last change had cera-tec in it.
only pm left is the transfer case fluid
then I have a tlc rack to put on.
and one more go around pulling the driver seat to fix a few minor things with the amp.
only pm left is the transfer case fluid
then I have a tlc rack to put on.
and one more go around pulling the driver seat to fix a few minor things with the amp.
- Thread starter
- #430
The cleanest place on my LX is the freshly clay barred and waxed rack channels.
- Thread starter
- #431
So big it takes two pics. Had one chip in the right rear from removal or shipping. They are the devil to get off unbroken. Some black sugru and it is good as new.
So much space.
So much space.
- Thread starter
- #432
Is your Front Seatback Board Assembly LH seat back pocket all saggy because the webbing has lost its elasticity? Do you need to get the front seatback board off because the a-hole who did the aftermarket Rear Seat Entertainment system install didn't leave a service loop, and it is nigh impossible to put the seat back in with the headrest attached? Fear not, because you too can take that sucker off!
Remove the elastic grabbers under the back of the front seat, near the middle seat floor mat from the hooks.
Look for two shiny, vertically oriented screws and take those out.
Pull down.
Remove the elastic grabbers under the back of the front seat, near the middle seat floor mat from the hooks.
Look for two shiny, vertically oriented screws and take those out.
Pull down.
- Thread starter
- #433
Profit! Put in that service loop! Cut a new set of holes and tighten that elastic.
Reassembly the reverse.
Reassembly the reverse.
- Thread starter
- #434
Finally got the transfer case oil done. I've been putting that off for 9 months or so. First time in a long time all the factory skids are buttoned up. I eventually found the bolts, but am missing one of the little fairings that go in front of the tire. It's a 2 x 4 piece of black plastic. I remember pulling it to fit the 35s, but no idea where I put it now. Oh well.
I guess after I pull the driver seat and do one more round on the amps, do some rack fitting for the trax, that I'm done? until the armor is ready . . .
I guess after I pull the driver seat and do one more round on the amps, do some rack fitting for the trax, that I'm done? until the armor is ready . . .
- Thread starter
- #435
couldn't resist the power of the subwoofer thread and ordered a sub. 8" JBL 810 4ohm 88db 4" mounting depth .35cft sealed box. We'll see how similar the ML sub and JBL subs are when I pull the side cover. I hope it is at least an 8".
edit well on another thread I was informed the ML sub is a 10”. So I’ve got a 1000ws club jbl coming. similar char to the other jbl, but one trim higher, and 10”. It’s 3 and some change depth, 89 db and rated for a small sealed box.
edit well on another thread I was informed the ML sub is a 10”. So I’ve got a 1000ws club jbl coming. similar char to the other jbl, but one trim higher, and 10”. It’s 3 and some change depth, 89 db and rated for a small sealed box.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #436
Subwoofer achievement unlocked. It as a pita as the sub I chose really didn’t fit the space, but in the end worked out. It already sounds better (more low end) and I haven’t messed with the DSP or gains.
- Thread starter
- #437
While I had the passenger rear apart thought I’d move the backup camera. Disassembling the rear door is pretty easy, but they used the screw clips from hell to hold the camera in. Got the wire run up to the grommet to the headliner, will start fishing tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #438
Seriously considering ordering a big boy dsp for the sound now that I have a sub in place. Probably will . .
- Thread starter
- #439
Well as anticipated that grommet from hatch to headliner sucked. The final trick I tried was a puddle of lube on the hatch side of the grommet. pushed thru real easy after that. Life lesson there.
Got it down to the right side firewall grommet, which immediately split full length. It exits directly over the ahc fluid tank. Convenient!
Have the wire there and just need to patch in a connector and the final length to the spare.
Got it down to the right side firewall grommet, which immediately split full length. It exits directly over the ahc fluid tank. Convenient!
Have the wire there and just need to patch in a connector and the final length to the spare.
- Thread starter
- #440
In other news I’m continuing the armor portion of the build.
Have decided that I really factor weight (or lack there of) and went all Aluminum except for the rlca and shocks.
Front to cross member Total Chaos Aluminum
Transfer Case Asfir 4x4
Fuel Rival 4x4
Suspension bits Trail tailor
There will be some mild contention at the cross member for one bolt hole, should be easy enough to resolve.
Aside from the suspension which I already have in staging the rear is all lead time ordered.
Total cost was around $1100 for the skids, $300 for the suspension.
Have decided that I really factor weight (or lack there of) and went all Aluminum except for the rlca and shocks.
Front to cross member Total Chaos Aluminum
Transfer Case Asfir 4x4
Fuel Rival 4x4
Suspension bits Trail tailor
There will be some mild contention at the cross member for one bolt hole, should be easy enough to resolve.
Aside from the suspension which I already have in staging the rear is all lead time ordered.
Total cost was around $1100 for the skids, $300 for the suspension.
