John McVicker
SILVER Star
The Coleman Thread (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter rusty_tlc
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reddog90
SILVER Star
@John McVicker I borrowed my old man's check valve tool and removed it last night. Talk about the right tool for the job. It's soaking now.
Maybe I am misunderstanding you, but how will a cleaned up check valve prevent hissing here after I close the main valve though:
Maybe I am misunderstanding you, but how will a cleaned up check valve prevent hissing here after I close the main valve though:
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Here is a good read on your check valve. Hope it solves your problem!
The check valve is a small brass housing that has a check ball near the bottom, about the size of a BB. The check ball moves up and down inside the housing which equates to the check valve being open or closed.
When the check valve is open, the check ball is down and air can flow into the fount from the pump. When the check valve is closed, the check ball is up and it
blocks air from leaking back out of the fount.
The common fault of check valves is for them to leak. Any foreign substance on the check ball or its seat will cause a leak, because it cannot seat properly. This can happen because of dirt, oil from the pump, or from fuel reaching it from inside the fount. It is not safe for pressure to leak from an appliance while it is burning.
With few exceptions, all Coleman® check valves are supplemented with an "air stem" which provides a second layer of protection against pressure leaks. It threads into the check valve and blocks air flow when turned fully clockwise. The air stem is turned by rotating the pump handle.
Most lanterns and stoves will have one of the check valve / air stem combinations shown above.
How to Remove and Clean a Check Valve
The check valve can be a huge problem. It is very difficult to reach and nearly impossible to remove if you don't have the right tools. It is, by far, the single most difficult part to work with in a lamp, lantern or stove.
When the check valve is open, the check ball is down and air can flow into the fount from the pump. When the check valve is closed, the check ball is up and it
The common fault of check valves is for them to leak. Any foreign substance on the check ball or its seat will cause a leak, because it cannot seat properly. This can happen because of dirt, oil from the pump, or from fuel reaching it from inside the fount. It is not safe for pressure to leak from an appliance while it is burning.
With few exceptions, all Coleman® check valves are supplemented with an "air stem" which provides a second layer of protection against pressure leaks. It threads into the check valve and blocks air flow when turned fully clockwise. The air stem is turned by rotating the pump handle.
Most lanterns and stoves will have one of the check valve / air stem combinations shown above.
reddog90
SILVER Star
I got the check valve cleaned up and functioning properly and reinstalled it. The tank definitely pumps up better and holds pressure. But I still get a hissing out of the generator tube once I turn the main valve off after the stove has been burning a few minutes. I also noticed a drip of fuel come out of the valve near the valve wheel. I think the valve assembly just needs to be disassembled and rebuilt with fresh packing. And I don't really want to do that before the trip.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Old Coleman Parts > Categories
- Coleman Gear in Action - Daryl says it looks like spring in Southern California!
www.oldcolemanparts.com
I will be camping in KOA #47 A, bring it on over & we can take a look at it.
.In the meantime check out the Coleman link above. They have a technical section where they ask/answer questions. Has helped me a lot.
See you at SAS 6!
reddog90
SILVER Star
Alright I'll have to join over there and post up my question. Thanks. I'm splitting #111A RV site with a friend, see you there.
Today's Haul. And some insanely priced appliances that needless to say, did not come home today.
Was this Warren Buffett's yard sale?!?
Looks like you ended up with quite a few 220s and a few 228s, as well. My wife-unit picked up a 228E at an estate sale a few weeks back, and I dont think it got burned much. Cleaned up very nicely, with only a minor chip in the ventilator, which is hard to see. Here it is on fire;
Everything original, though I need to replace the fuel cap gasket (*3-piece fuel cap with the dangerous hole...), and have a few replacements on the way. In the meantime, I'm burning it with a modern 1-piece fuel cap to hold pressure. Apart from sticking Fuel Valve and Tip Cleaner packing - which popped free with a little torque - for a 1955 model year, it's running amazingly well. The old fuel still burned clean and bright, and has to be decades old.
Keep them alive,
Looks like you ended up with quite a few 220s and a few 228s, as well. My wife-unit picked up a 228E at an estate sale a few weeks back, and I dont think it got burned much. Cleaned up very nicely, with only a minor chip in the ventilator, which is hard to see. Here it is on fire;
Everything original, though I need to replace the fuel cap gasket (*3-piece fuel cap with the dangerous hole...), and have a few replacements on the way. In the meantime, I'm burning it with a modern 1-piece fuel cap to hold pressure. Apart from sticking Fuel Valve and Tip Cleaner packing - which popped free with a little torque - for a 1955 model year, it's running amazingly well. The old fuel still burned clean and bright, and has to be decades old.
Keep them alive,
I didn't really want any 220's but in order to get other lanterns cheaper I had to package deal on some of them. Didn't get anything rare or really even that nice. Probably going to make some of these into parts lanterns. Passed up probably 50 or more 220's and several 200A's that were stupid priced. I've never paid more than $25 for a lantern in my life, and I've bought some really nice ones. These were all from the 127 yard sale.
Just picked up a 1962 228E big hat, a 1986 288A, and a 1997 288. One will be a gift. The others will join my 1972 220F in the garage. Nothing too special but they are in good shape should be some good camping and ice fishing in the future for these. The seller also threw in a recent propane lantern that I did not need or want but it was the last of the lanterns they had and they were cleaning out the garage.
Here's an update pic of how the estate sale 228E ended up; new 3-piece fuel cap gasket, a new 252 sticker (a la MilSpec), period correct chain for the filler cap, and swapped in an Amber globe for the rest of summer to keep the bugs at bay. Once it gets colder at night, I'll reinstall the Coleman clear Sunshine of the Night globe that came on it. Threw a period correct sparker on it, and will be burning tonight when the sun goes down:
This one burns so brightly and lights so well, it's become my go-to...
This one burns so brightly and lights so well, it's become my go-to...
A cooler that was gifted to us many years ago. It’s in amazing shape.
It’s still hard to believe I found one of these in the wild last week…for $38.00.
Keep looking guys, you never know what you will stumble upon!
Keep looking guys, you never know what you will stumble upon!
I also completed the “Purdy Pink Pic-nic” collection a while back.
This one is just for looks…for now.
There’s supposed to be a dohickey a guy could find, and some shade tree techniques, that…allegedly…allow you to fill an empty LP can with butane…and then use in these stoves or an LP lantern.
If I come across a legit, field proven technique I will share here.
I've got several of these picnic stoves from the 60s. they're not a barn burner at 14,000ft but they get the job done. cool kitsch. they look good on the shelf too. the do-hickey you mentioned allows you to use the more common lp cans like this. got the doo-hickey on Ebay they work just fine.
MrMikeyG
SILVER Star
Are any of you into the Coleman 129's? the table lamp style ones? I have some literature and some small parts that are doing me no good. I will take a picture of the stuff tomorrow.