The build of the red Fox cruiser (1 Viewer)

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Feb 7, 2009
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I have had a 80 series since 2006. I picked up a 94 in 06, I had a built out tacomA and traded a dealer straight up title for title. I loved my 94 and the places it took me. Built it fully out and drove the doors off. Truck has been all over Colorado and Utah. Fourteen years later the engine is tired, it has had valve noise piston slap for the last 25k. I have a motor I was gonna swap into it, then just started thinking how I wanted a obd2 truck and something cleaner and newer to sink money into. Long story short after looking for about 8months I found my 96.
Went and picked it up few weeks ago in Utah and drove her back to Colorado. Inside I found a red toy Fox with foxy the red cruiser written on it. Well I guess that’s her name.
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Joined
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So once I got her home and looked it over real good I scored. Truck has damn good paint no clear coat peal. Interior is super nice leather is in good shape. Dash is perfect. This truck is almost a time capsule.
First order pull the factory alarm. Took about thirty minutes.
Step 2 start the swap of parts. I have a newer modded 25k fluid blue hub that I pulled from the 94 and put on the 96.
Tossed my bowfin rack that Patrick brought to me from Michigan back in 18 I think it was? At sas2.
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Joined
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With easy stuff out of the way here is what has been done on the engine
1. Blue hub 25k fluid
2. Plug wires
3. Distributer cap and rotor
4. Valve cover spark plug seals, gasket and painted
5. New master, brake booster
6. Leds retro fitted into stock headlights( total game changer) did the dims and brights
7. All metal CSF radiator with yota red
8. Engine harness wrapped (going to change out and put in new harness while there still out there)
9. All heater hoses and lines
10. Vacuum lines
11. PVC and hose
12. HP power steering hose
13. power steering pump
14. Belts
15. Water pump
16. Thermostat
17. Oil cap gasket( yup there is a gasket under your
cap inside it)
18. Battery cable and lug on negative
All parts yota except the radiator
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Joined
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Next up is the transfer of my axles and links and all suspension.
So I have rebuilt my front and rear axles back in 18 that i did, I had to do couple bearings that looked crappy and used rebuild kit from cruiser outfitters. I worked for Robbie back in 15 and set bearings his way by feel. In 2010 I had Slee install 5.29s from nitro that I got on group buy from mud back then and arb air lockers. So I was definitely going to use my axles from the 94.
Front shocks are Slee’s, Dobinson 4 inch flex springs
Rear shocks are king with adjusters 2.5 resi. Dobinson springs 4 inch
Brakes consist of power stop rotors and pad front and rear.
Rebuilt calipers back in 19. Slee brake lines full kit
Slee front arms
Metal tech rear upper and lowers
Slee drag link and tie rod
Slee front adjustable panhard
Delta bracket on the rear
37 inch copper stt tires on 17x8 wheels
Bump stops front and rear on the frame have been lowered.
Also installed a front cv shaft cut down from a taco and retubed
Rear shaft is stock
Installed my Bump it Offroad front bumper from the 94 and winch

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Joined
Feb 7, 2009
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2,534
Next up was pulling the compressor for the air locker and wiring and switches over to the 96.
Was pretty simple and trick. The way the compressor is set up you run all off the trucks existing wiring that’s already there.
Step 1 drill and mount compressor.
Step 2 pull the lower dash and center section under
under the dash. You need to knock out the
blank dash plates and diff lock blank
Step 3 I pulled the old wiring and clipped it out on
the diff switch connection( basically made a
pig tail
Step 4 run the wiring from the compressor through
The fire wall.
Step 5. You need the compressor switch and hook
It up as shown, in wiring diagram
Step 6. Now you are gonna use the existing diff
Wiring, it is in every truck
Yellow wire off the arb harness goes to the
Green and black Toyota diff switch wire
Green wire off the arb goes to the red black
Diff wire
Red yellow wire that plugs into your arb
switch needs to splice off to the yota diff
Blue black wire. This is your ignition power
Connection
Doing it this way you do not hook the compressor to the battery or use the arb relays. Everything works off your diff switch wiring for power. Now this way truck must be on or acc to turn on compressor and diff activates off the dial.
I have the little arb cmka12 compressor. I am using the rear locker switch cover cause I broke the one that said compressor on it. All the switches and covers you get are the same. If you want the switch to light up when your lights are on then plug the illumination wire off the arb harness a splice to the green wire on your dimmer. I just didn’t do it to this truck. Switch will illuminate when it is in the on position now with the blue white arb wire not hooked up. Just not when in the off position. If you are now confused study the pics. But once you see the light this is super easy way to do it

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Joined
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Next up is I need new sliders, going with bump it Offroad’s, will have the exhaust shop redo the whole exhaust and go to one cat and run over the frame with 3 inch. Haven’t decided on rear bumper yet( leaning towards Slee)
 

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