The 2H/12H-T/1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Gturbo Alternative Tech Thread (1 Viewer)
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- #782
I got to the point personally with the time and money I would be investing trying to get all of this little custom stuff done the benefits might not be worth it at least for me.
My turbo 1HZ in the scheme of things runs great with the supporting mods I have done.
My turbo 1HZ in the scheme of things runs great with the supporting mods I have done.
I've spent conciderable time with vnt's on and idi diesel with no electronics . In my opinion unless you have electronics to input into somthing like a unichip you are better of with a standard wastegate turbo . Just to many compromises . Compound turbos is where it's at !
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Yeah, compounds is the dream. Probably a pipe dream for me though. Too much of it is over my head!
Yeah, compounds is the dream. Probably a pipe dream for me though. Too much of it is over my head!
Lol takes a bit of maths and need to know exactly what your goals are befor you start .
For the time and effort unless your really fussy the UFI options are hard to beat but not unbeatable compounds will do that
Had a chat to old mate today re: BW EFR. He thinks it may be feasible to obtain a supercore and do some magic to make it work in a CT26 housing. This could be a bit of a game changer, he reckons they are miles ahead of the competition both response and performance wise thanks to the turbine technology and good compressor design. Also says the cores are really well designed and will hold up to a lot of load. Will keep you posted 
Those have titanium wheels, nice. Too bad the 1HDT has a cast block, or we'd be able to get away with way higher EGTs by using a Ti turbo wheel.
Any luck with the video?
Any luck with the video?
Haha you don't give up. Don't worry, you're not alone! I'll get one maybe next week, will stick it on youtube so everyone can see. And yeah, melting pistons is the biggest issue. But the improved turbine means you can run a bigger set of wheels and still get the same response as before, but better overall performance. Results on petrols are promising to say the least, 1000+ rpm drop to hit peak boost was one I saw
Titanium wheel has nothing to do with egts.
Not in this application, but in aluminum block diesels with better piston cooling, running a Ti wheel removes the turbo as the EGT limiting factor given its high melting point.
I dabble in TDIs, and it's nice not having to worry about the block/pistons before the turbo. At least not until ~1,650 F
I thought you were talking about this application. This thread is about this application mind you.
You're very observant. I simply said "it's too bad the 1HDT has a cast block". If you would prefer, I can run all my comments by you first in the future, so that you can judge their appropriateness for this form and thread.
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- #793
Clearly he doesn't know what he wants. Remember a 1hd-t isn't going to be as robust to egts as say a cummins...
Ti wheel would take less to spool compared to it.
I'll lay it out as best as I can.
Absalom. I get the vibe that you should try and stick to straight bolt in performance. Gturbo will probably be your best route if you don't want to worry about adapters to fit a MHI style core. It will be the least amount of headache for you.
Now you have to ask yourself where you want power.
You'll do 200atw hp if tuned correctly out of a Grunter Xtreme or a Badboy.
Do you have a 3" exhaust? It wouldn't be of benefit to go one of these turbos if it can exhale.
Next question is how much boost do you want to run? Your airflow will suffer a bit at the 25lb mark in my opinion. It's going to want to breath with the least amount of restriction.
How's your fuel injection system. Is your pump set on the bench for the appropriate fuel delivery level to your horsepower goals? This isn't a matter of turning your max fuel screw.... have your injectors been gone through? Believe it or not if they are in bad shape a weeping injector can burn a hole in your piston.
Intercooling. Well do you want simplicity? Go air to air, front mount would be your best choice. HPD would probably be your easiest route. Water to air is better if you want to get complicated with a bunch of fab work to make something fit and have a large enough fluid tank to constantly keep your surcharge cooled. Just remember if your core leaks were is that fluid going....
If you want to do this right this turbo job or upgrade can cost you a pile of money.
So let's tally this up without labour for products you don't have to custom make. Bolt in for simility sake.
Turbo 2k
3" mandrel bent exhaust will be 1k plus depending if you want stainless.
Airbox will be $650
Injectors $650
Injection pump $1200
Intercooler 2k
$7500. Not installed. Now that's just an estimate as you are going to run into duties, taxes and have to ship a bunch of oversized items.
is the cost for your goals make sense? You have to ask yourself that.
Ti wheel would take less to spool compared to it.
I'll lay it out as best as I can.
Absalom. I get the vibe that you should try and stick to straight bolt in performance. Gturbo will probably be your best route if you don't want to worry about adapters to fit a MHI style core. It will be the least amount of headache for you.
Now you have to ask yourself where you want power.
You'll do 200atw hp if tuned correctly out of a Grunter Xtreme or a Badboy.
Do you have a 3" exhaust? It wouldn't be of benefit to go one of these turbos if it can exhale.
Next question is how much boost do you want to run? Your airflow will suffer a bit at the 25lb mark in my opinion. It's going to want to breath with the least amount of restriction.
How's your fuel injection system. Is your pump set on the bench for the appropriate fuel delivery level to your horsepower goals? This isn't a matter of turning your max fuel screw.... have your injectors been gone through? Believe it or not if they are in bad shape a weeping injector can burn a hole in your piston.
Intercooling. Well do you want simplicity? Go air to air, front mount would be your best choice. HPD would probably be your easiest route. Water to air is better if you want to get complicated with a bunch of fab work to make something fit and have a large enough fluid tank to constantly keep your surcharge cooled. Just remember if your core leaks were is that fluid going....
If you want to do this right this turbo job or upgrade can cost you a pile of money.
So let's tally this up without labour for products you don't have to custom make. Bolt in for simility sake.
Turbo 2k
3" mandrel bent exhaust will be 1k plus depending if you want stainless.
Airbox will be $650
Injectors $650
Injection pump $1200
Intercooler 2k
$7500. Not installed. Now that's just an estimate as you are going to run into duties, taxes and have to ship a bunch of oversized items.
is the cost for your goals make sense? You have to ask yourself that.
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Hmm, I think we are seeing some classic miscommunication here.
Had a chat to old mate today re: BW EFR. He thinks it may be feasible to obtain a supercore and do some magic to make it work in a CT26 housing. This could be a bit of a game changer, he reckons they are miles ahead of the competition both response and performance wise thanks to the turbine technology and good compressor design. Also says the cores are really well designed and will hold up to a lot of load. Will keep you posted
BW EFR was done for a Cummins 4BT recently and the turbine wheel fell off. Seems they have some issues with the gamma-ti turbine wheels sticking to the shafts in high boost applications. This miata video shows the same failure:
So I'm not sure what experience your mate has with them. But that cummins application (which I verified the mapping for) left me a bit gun-shy.
TDI's do not like 1650F EGT either. Plus you're into retarded smoke levels before things get that hot. There is literally no reason to run that hot and smokey. It's bad tuning.
I really like BW turbos but that new turbine issue has turned me off bigtime. Too bad. I still think their a good company but Ill need a few more years to see where the dust settles. Doesn't help either when guys post that they drop the ball on warranty too. As if the catastrophic fail isn't bad enough you also get to eat the over priced turbo. Leaves me with the feeling that their margin of safety is right on the edge.
Thanks for the PM Abs. No need to bury the hatchet. I think your a nice guy trying to figure stuff out. Some of the things you post I happen to not agree with.
Thanks for the PM Abs. No need to bury the hatchet. I think your a nice guy trying to figure stuff out. Some of the things you post I happen to not agree with.
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- #797
It's all good boys, my bad for the comment. Internet miscommunication
I did a rough calculation on a BW awhile back and thought it would be a good option. Sucks about the Ti, better just stick to inconel. The company I dealt with was doing 5 axis milled CNC turbine wheels.
I was really sumalya would deliver their turbo option that I proposed to them. At $1200USD it would have been a direct bolt in. Anyone that saw the wheels and comp housings I did a run of saw the quality. I got a ton of compliments from the parts.
The warranty thing is something that I seriously concider before I buy any big ticket item because as well all know s*** happens even with reputable companies.
I did a rough calculation on a BW awhile back and thought it would be a good option. Sucks about the Ti, better just stick to inconel. The company I dealt with was doing 5 axis milled CNC turbine wheels.
I was really sumalya would deliver their turbo option that I proposed to them. At $1200USD it would have been a direct bolt in. Anyone that saw the wheels and comp housings I did a run of saw the quality. I got a ton of compliments from the parts.
The warranty thing is something that I seriously concider before I buy any big ticket item because as well all know s*** happens even with reputable companies.
Is this a widespread issue? My quick searching indicates there some issues with the earliest batches (around 2012) but I have not heard of problems since. There seem to be a lot of people using them. I am considering a 6758 or 7163 for my Audi and hear nothing but glowing reviews although I don't see anyone using them above 30psi as they seem to perform best under that threshold.
Well Im not sure about other models, but I was interested in the specific sizes that failed and read several failures that I felt were way out of the realm of normality and were left in the customers hands to deal with. Since there are more then one choice on the menu I thought better to go with a percent or two less efficient turbine and compressor for designs that never ever fail ever. As in never.....ever.....ever....I like MHI turbos for many reasons, that being one if them.
Ok so that is an exaggeration but the BW turbine issue left me with a bad taste overall.
Ok so that is an exaggeration but the BW turbine issue left me with a bad taste overall.
Bw efr have a few nice bits, nice compressors and fullback turbines on most models . The wastegate design is better flow wise than the tried n true mhi design. From the limited testing on the td42 that I've seen with the 6758 suggests that with good electronic boost control ( like an eboost ) you can achieve quite good spool while maintaining 1-1.1:1 drive pressure. Transient response is very good . Spool pretty good but not the best I've experience in a turbo this size . By the time you by it plus all associated parts your out out of pocket about the same as a UFI kit so probable the same as a gturbo too. But then you have to adapt it to fit .
I have a contact who is doing testing on a td42 at the moment. I'll post the result When the testing is complete
I have a contact who is doing testing on a td42 at the moment. I'll post the result When the testing is complete
