Lowest EMP by leaking wastegate means slowest to build boost.
What's your lowest AFR?
You still think you're magically dropping EMP while maintaining boost and finding all this extra power that no-one else knows about?
The 2H/12H-T/1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Gturbo Alternative Tech Thread
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Lowest EMP by leaking wastegate means slowest to build boost.
What's your lowest AFR?
You still think you're magically dropping EMP while maintaining boost and finding all this extra power that no-one else knows about?
Yes you are correct, the one with the lowest EMP is slightly slower to build boost. But I have already said this many times. Even though boost builds slower it's actually quicker on the road to gain speed vs time and I'll choose that any day over a better looking boost gauge.
Lower drive pressure and slower to build boost with same fuel = hotter tune.
Yes with the exact same fuelling it would be hotter. But in my case it wasn't because of the way I have my compensator setup. I still get the same fuelling profile which increases in relation to boost so it's basically exactly the same temps but it just happens slightly slower than before. Plus you need to factor in that with the lower EMP you're getting better cylinder fill of fresh intake air so that'll bring down temps a bit also.
So if I understand correctly.... you are saying with less boost coming on slower your fueling is also reduced over that same period of time.
SO with less air density and less fuel your vehicle is FASTER over said period of time??? Seems to defy all logic related to engine thermodynamics.
I would suggest that you start a New thread with that info as it has nothing to do with this one. This is a Gturbo alternatives thread.
Cheers
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Anythings possible if you just believe!
I had a Gturbo and now have an alternative turbo which works in the way I'm trying to explain. My opinions most certainly belongs in this thread!I would suggest that you start a New thread with that info as it has nothing to do with this one. This is a Gturbo alternatives thread.
Cheers
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No I'm not saying that. I still have the same boost and fuel it just spools slightly slower. Fuelling isn't reduced it's exactly that same with respect to boost pressure. I still get the same about of fuel delivered as I did before at the same boost level all the way up to peak boost/peak fuelling. It remains the same as the compensator adjusts fuel according to boost.So if I understand correctly.... you are saying with less boost coming on slower your fueling is also reduced over that same period of time.
SO with less air density and less fuel your vehicle is FASTER over said period of time??? Seems to defy all logic related to engine thermodynamics.
I would suggest that you start a New thread with that info as it has nothing to do with this one. This is a Gturbo alternatives thread.
Cheers
You're still only focusing on one part it the equation. Yes there's slightly less boost/density during spool but there's the other important factor EMP. Just because you have all that boost sitting in the inlet manifold doesn't mean it's all going into the cylinder. Higher EMP will mean more exhaust gas will stay in the cylinder, less air flow during valve overlap and less volume available for fresh intake air to enter during intake stroke. This is why a vehicle can perform better with lower EMP even though it's slightly slower to build boost.
For an example of what I mean;
Doing forth gear pulls/time trails from 40km - 80km. When testing I could reach peak boost as early as 65km/h to as late as 75km/h. Now if this is all I was focusing on there's no way I would choose the latter but when you look at the times it took to get to these speeds the quicker spooling setup would take 7 seconds to go from 40-80km/h but the slower spooling setup took only 6 seconds
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AussieHJCruza
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I struggle to see how the levels of EMP we're talking here could have a measurable difference - if you go from 1.8 to 1.2x boost for example, that's 12 psi at 20 psi boost - I just don't think that's high enough to make a measurable difference. If you for some reason went from 5x to 1.2x, yes sure, probably some difference but yeah...
I'm just letting people know what I have found when testing this. It really didn't take much of a EMP:IMP change to make a noticeable difference while driving. The difference even going from 1.6:1 down to 1.2:1 was really hard to ignore even by just driving it and not measuring any times.
So much circular BS.
Who measures boost in km/h? Seriously? Do you not have a tacho?
1 second difference from 40-80km/h is not accurate enough to measure anything.
Also attempting to measure EMP without EGT is completely useless. It is the trio of boost, EGT and EMP that tells you how much power your turbo is producing, taking out any one of those makes the other two useless.
Well I do, I always measure boost against km/h. Didn't realise there was a set rule on how you are allowed to measure this
or is this just another one of those things where someone does something slightly different to you and you feel the need to make a useless comment about. I've found my two GPS apps I use for recorded time trials to be very accurate.
You guys are being trolled so hard.
Yeah I know tweek but it's interesting. Improving performance by lowering your drive pressure while increasing your egts is not a win. Your turbos getting its energy from a combination of the two. Now lower both while improving performance ....that is a win.
So if you were saying same boost with same fuel but changed from internal wastegate to external and dropped drive pressure I'd buy it as yould be altering internal flow but your not altering anything.
I'd like to see your weak spring at WOT pull a trailer up a hill at 1700rpm vs the stuffer spring. Then your egts would call you out.
So if you were saying same boost with same fuel but changed from internal wastegate to external and dropped drive pressure I'd buy it as yould be altering internal flow but your not altering anything.
I'd like to see your weak spring at WOT pull a trailer up a hill at 1700rpm vs the stuffer spring. Then your egts would call you out.
That's just plain silly, do you not have gears? Lugging a diesel with heavy loads up a hill is a very bad idea. You should change gears to get your RPM up, your EGT will then improve. Short shifting diesels and not utilising the full RPM range is severely limiting your engines ability.
Hah, your funny. It's not about driving style. It's about loading up your engine to see if your tune is safe or not.
Later Kiwi. I'm out.
g
Later Kiwi. I'm out.
g
You're the one who made up some random scenario in which I would never actually do myself. So if my tune matches my driving style it most certainly is a safe tune. If you choose to lug your engine while towing that's up to you but I'd never do that and if I did I would alter my tune to not allow EGT to get out of control so that would also be a safe tune.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
It really doesn't.
You haven't offered any tech in relation to an alternate turbo, simply unsubstantiated opinions on tuning methods
Well that is after all what forums are, not sure why you lot seem to think otherwise. I'm entitled to post my opinion, no one's forcing you to agree with it.
