g-man
SILVER Star
Also download the 1984-1990 chassis-body fsm. the wiring schematics are much clearer than the one's in the 84 body and chassis.
Builds "TEDDY" Build - 1987 FJ60
- Thread starter BisonCruiser
- Start date
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g-man
SILVER Star
download these and read them like the bible and use them whenever you need directions, torque specs, schematics...
Use acrobat reader to open these files so you can copy and paste pages on mud to ask or answer questions.
Use acrobat reader to open these files so you can copy and paste pages on mud to ask or answer questions.
- Thread starter
- #24
I actually already grabbed all of those except for the 84 Body and Chasis.
g-man
SILVER Star
Not much difference between the 84-90 body and chassis and the 84 body and chassis except the schematics appear more clear in the newer version.
- Thread starter
- #26
Good to know! I've got the cruiser jacked up now. Planning to get a decent amount done here soon.
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- Thread starter
- #27
Lots of rain here lately, so I have Teddy sitting on some sturdy 12x8s. Tarped up to protect the cancer spots from getting taking on any more water.
I got the wheels off during a torrential downpour. Dropping them off at Discount Tire in the AM for some cheap highway tires. The tread on these Grabbers are great, but they were produced way back during Bush's first term... time for them to go. Found a nice hole in one of the hub covers tonight as well.
I got the wheels off during a torrential downpour. Dropping them off at Discount Tire in the AM for some cheap highway tires. The tread on these Grabbers are great, but they were produced way back during Bush's first term... time for them to go. Found a nice hole in one of the hub covers tonight as well.
- Thread starter
- #28
Over the past week and change, I've made a few small improvements.
With the wheels off I decided to wire brush them. They were pretty gnarly on the backside and to ensure proper seating, and to keep them looking better I cleaned them up as best I could. Eventually I'll give them a vinegar soak to remove all of the rust, but for now, the rotor seating surface is spotless.
I decided to take another look under the hood. Looks like along with fixing the vacuum line mess, I'll be doing a super flush on the coolant system.
My side-view mirror situation was pretty bleak. My driver's side mirror was completely broken off at the base with no way of reattaching it without Bondo or something like it. Also, the 60 mirrors are tiny. My Lexus SC300 mirrors are almost the same size... So I purchased and installed some Specter Off-Road FJ62 series chrome side-view mirrors. Cost me just under $100 if I remember correctly, but the new visibility is much improved.
Anyways. Yesterday I dropped off my wheels at Discount Tire and had some cheap ($610 out the door) Falken Wildpeak highway tires put on. Not too long from now, I hope to buy another set of wheels with and put some offroad tires on them. That way I'm not wasting good tread if I know I'm not going offroad for a bit.
I'm happy with them for now. And with that, Teddy is back on the ground.
More in Pt.2
With the wheels off I decided to wire brush them. They were pretty gnarly on the backside and to ensure proper seating, and to keep them looking better I cleaned them up as best I could. Eventually I'll give them a vinegar soak to remove all of the rust, but for now, the rotor seating surface is spotless.
I decided to take another look under the hood. Looks like along with fixing the vacuum line mess, I'll be doing a super flush on the coolant system.
My side-view mirror situation was pretty bleak. My driver's side mirror was completely broken off at the base with no way of reattaching it without Bondo or something like it. Also, the 60 mirrors are tiny. My Lexus SC300 mirrors are almost the same size... So I purchased and installed some Specter Off-Road FJ62 series chrome side-view mirrors. Cost me just under $100 if I remember correctly, but the new visibility is much improved.
Anyways. Yesterday I dropped off my wheels at Discount Tire and had some cheap ($610 out the door) Falken Wildpeak highway tires put on. Not too long from now, I hope to buy another set of wheels with and put some offroad tires on them. That way I'm not wasting good tread if I know I'm not going offroad for a bit.
I'm happy with them for now. And with that, Teddy is back on the ground.
More in Pt.2
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Looks good. Enjoy! I’m green for your green! Still have a layer of snow here from last week and what ground is peeking through is covered in dead grass.
- Thread starter
- #30
I also decided to clean out my rear louvers as they were filled up with fallen rust debris from the hole in my roof.
Lastly, I know when I get Teddy up and running I'll need a little extra horsepower. So I decided to call up the good guys at RedBubble and order my Rough Rider some stickers.
When I apply stickers I can get pretty methodical (...or anal) about application, so I'll share my process.
RedBubble stickers come on a sheet so, I like to cut the stickers as close as necessary to make visible the outlines. After doing this, I apply painters tape to the back so I can play around with the sticker placement without ruining the stickers. Once I'm happy with the placement, I clean the section where I plan to apply the stickers. I always ensure the stickers are level, I don't break out a level or anything, but I won't fully place the sticker until everything looks proper. I use a card to smooth it out as I peel away the backing to ensure there are no bubbles.
All that to say, now I have new window art.
Lastly, I know when I get Teddy up and running I'll need a little extra horsepower. So I decided to call up the good guys at RedBubble and order my Rough Rider some stickers.
When I apply stickers I can get pretty methodical (...or anal) about application, so I'll share my process.
RedBubble stickers come on a sheet so, I like to cut the stickers as close as necessary to make visible the outlines. After doing this, I apply painters tape to the back so I can play around with the sticker placement without ruining the stickers. Once I'm happy with the placement, I clean the section where I plan to apply the stickers. I always ensure the stickers are level, I don't break out a level or anything, but I won't fully place the sticker until everything looks proper. I use a card to smooth it out as I peel away the backing to ensure there are no bubbles.
All that to say, now I have new window art.
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- Thread starter
- #31
Would anyone happen to know what the screw size is for the two screws that hold on the gas panel door?
- Thread starter
- #32
Here is a link to a video under the hood of my 60. Hopefully, this is helpful to anyone trying to help me haha. The air cleaner assembly was removed for filming.
Stoked for you, welcome to the Cruiser fam, fam. I am new to Land Cruisers myself, purchased my first truck a year ago as of 3/16/18.
I can only impart advice based on my personal experiences thus far. I have learned a lot by reading the FSM, getting my hands dirty, and most importantly - asking a lot of questions on MUD. Wealth of knowledge to be had from this forum. I would suggest the desmog be at the top of your list, unless you are in a location where emission regulations require that you have all the smog equipment.
This is for a couple of reasons. A lot of the hoses and components left on from a half-assed desmog will create numerous vac leaks. I am literally in the throws of this process right now. The vac leaks were abundant. The upside is that once the work is done, you will have ample space under the hood to see things more clearly. Secondly, you will become real familiar with 2F, real quick. The process has been laid out very well in the "my desmog thread" and folks are adding input from their experiences often. I watched your video, and from what I can tell, a lot of the issues could be solved with the desmog process. No more spaghetti of hoses. You will be able to work around your carb better, and this may help get your idle problem fixed with most if not all, vac leaks plugged up.
My suggestion would be to visit the TLC Performance website, and get the Desmog Plug Kit, the aux Pulley to replace the smog pump, EGR Block off plate for the J-Pipe, and the Screw on plug for the end of EGR piece that connects to intake manifold for starters.
If any of your smog components are still usable, I recommend selling to someone out West who may need the parts due to emissions regulations. Then use that money to buy more new parts for your truck.
The hose that you grab at 2:36 of your video is the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation). As I understand, it recirculates the warm air from your crankcase back into the intake manifold, to aid in faster warm up. Routing this correctly may assist you from having to hold down the accelerator until the truck is warm, or at least be a move in the right direction. It connects to the EGR (exhaust gas re-circulation) system, which also works in a similar fashion, recirculating warm air back into the intake manifold. It's basically a large vac leak in its current form...
I have photoshopped some images from my truck when I was working on it - hopefully this will help. I am totally an amateur mechanic, so please someone correct me if I am wrong.
I can only impart advice based on my personal experiences thus far. I have learned a lot by reading the FSM, getting my hands dirty, and most importantly - asking a lot of questions on MUD. Wealth of knowledge to be had from this forum. I would suggest the desmog be at the top of your list, unless you are in a location where emission regulations require that you have all the smog equipment.
This is for a couple of reasons. A lot of the hoses and components left on from a half-assed desmog will create numerous vac leaks. I am literally in the throws of this process right now. The vac leaks were abundant. The upside is that once the work is done, you will have ample space under the hood to see things more clearly. Secondly, you will become real familiar with 2F, real quick. The process has been laid out very well in the "my desmog thread" and folks are adding input from their experiences often. I watched your video, and from what I can tell, a lot of the issues could be solved with the desmog process. No more spaghetti of hoses. You will be able to work around your carb better, and this may help get your idle problem fixed with most if not all, vac leaks plugged up.
My suggestion would be to visit the TLC Performance website, and get the Desmog Plug Kit, the aux Pulley to replace the smog pump, EGR Block off plate for the J-Pipe, and the Screw on plug for the end of EGR piece that connects to intake manifold for starters.
If any of your smog components are still usable, I recommend selling to someone out West who may need the parts due to emissions regulations. Then use that money to buy more new parts for your truck.
The hose that you grab at 2:36 of your video is the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation). As I understand, it recirculates the warm air from your crankcase back into the intake manifold, to aid in faster warm up. Routing this correctly may assist you from having to hold down the accelerator until the truck is warm, or at least be a move in the right direction. It connects to the EGR (exhaust gas re-circulation) system, which also works in a similar fashion, recirculating warm air back into the intake manifold. It's basically a large vac leak in its current form...
I have photoshopped some images from my truck when I was working on it - hopefully this will help. I am totally an amateur mechanic, so please someone correct me if I am wrong.
- Thread starter
- #34
So, life has hit me like a brick.
June 2nd, I traded my 1995 SC300 daily for a 2000 Subaru which promptly blew up a week later. So, I had to get Teddy up to daily status. Needless to say, this has been a struggle. For the time being, Teddy is running and driving, but with plenty of oil blow-by.
I got some help from Marshall and the guys over at @Trollhole 's Cruisers and had a new carb installed. They tuned my setup to be compatible with the desmog and everything seems to be running at least ok for now. No more starting issues! I have performed a cooling system flush and am looking to do another one soon as things are not quite perfect yet.
So the largest task still remains: fixing the roof cancer. My plan is to cut away the rot, use high-density foam, then body filler to ensure no leaks. (Not that I've had any yet, but I wouldn't want to risk it)
Unfortunately, I'm looking to sell Teddy in order to get a reliable daily. Preferably another SC300 or 91-93 Celica.
Check back with post #1 to keep up to date with all the new parts. I'll try to post pictures soon.
June 2nd, I traded my 1995 SC300 daily for a 2000 Subaru which promptly blew up a week later. So, I had to get Teddy up to daily status. Needless to say, this has been a struggle. For the time being, Teddy is running and driving, but with plenty of oil blow-by.
I got some help from Marshall and the guys over at @Trollhole 's Cruisers and had a new carb installed. They tuned my setup to be compatible with the desmog and everything seems to be running at least ok for now. No more starting issues! I have performed a cooling system flush and am looking to do another one soon as things are not quite perfect yet.
So the largest task still remains: fixing the roof cancer. My plan is to cut away the rot, use high-density foam, then body filler to ensure no leaks. (Not that I've had any yet, but I wouldn't want to risk it)
Unfortunately, I'm looking to sell Teddy in order to get a reliable daily. Preferably another SC300 or 91-93 Celica.
Check back with post #1 to keep up to date with all the new parts. I'll try to post pictures soon.
- Thread starter
- #35
I've decided not to sell Teddy for the time being. Working on the fuel system issues at the moment.
Should have a full update soon.
Should have a full update soon.
- Thread starter
- #36
As I mentioned in my last post, I'm no longer looking to sell. I will be rebuilding Teddy with some connections I've made in my line of work. i.e. I'm getting free parts 
and paid to write about the build. (I work as a content/copywriter for the auto industry) I'll be checking in from time to time to give updates, but my work will be featured as an exclusive on a new trucks/SUVs site.
Updates will be coming soon. In the meantime, here's a sneak peek.
and paid to write about the build. (I work as a content/copywriter for the auto industry) I'll be checking in from time to time to give updates, but my work will be featured as an exclusive on a new trucks/SUVs site.Updates will be coming soon. In the meantime, here's a sneak peek.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
Wohoo, not selling 
good decision.
Bigger tank going in?
good decision.Bigger tank going in?
Hi, Looks like a fun project when we are all grounded at home . Find a high school student who's been in body shop class to help with that top. Mike
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
“May the FORCE be with you”
