TECH Question: Mechanic says my LX450 might have a blown head gasket (1 Viewer)

[BBLX450]

Let's try this again and frame it as a TECH question which will force me to be more candid with my situation...

In the summer of 2022, my car was totaled by a hit and run drunk driver outside my house. Insurance gave me a total loss check for $12,000. Used car market was so high that I couldn't even buy what I had. So I bought my friend's 1997 Lexus LX450 (currently 252k miles) in August 2022 for $7,500. Probably paid a little too much for it but he was a friend.

I'm not off-road guy, I don't work on cars, I've just always loved driving / riding in my friend's J80's since high school. I figured, why not give this a try... Hopefully it doesn't need too much mechanical work.... But since buying it... I've spent a little over $3,000 on the following:

- New Battery
- New Denso Alternator & Belt
- New Spark Plugs, New Thermostat, and Distributor
- New Denso Radiator
- New Front Brake Pads & Rotors
- New Rear Brake Light Socket Assemblies
- Brand New BFG All Terrain K02 Tires 275/70/16

Here's the TECH Question: Today, I picked up my LX from my mechanic and he's concerned I may have a blown or cracked head gasket. My coolant was low and so we did a pressure test. No leaks detected, he said it hardly dropped any pressure. But, after filling up with coolant, when he started it up, he noticed the engine struggle and then run smooth. Mechanic said he's seen this before... His theory: there was anti freeze in the cylinder when he started it up, and anti-freeze cleared out, it ran smooth.

Questions:
- The LX still drives fine. Is it okay to continue driving? Or do I need to consider fixing this before it goes down?
- Could it potentially do worst damage if I keep driving it till the engine dies?
- Do y'all recommend repairing head gasket? VS. should I consider an LS swap?

Feeling a little in over my head and discouraged. Had really hoped I was getting this into a more dependable spot.
Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

Other Flaws:
- Needs a new after-market radio installed. The one it had was wired wrong, and drawing on the battery (hence the new battery and alternator.)
- Leather is Sub Par Condition (Front Seats, Steering Wheel, Middle Console need to be recovered/replaced, back seats are passable, but not great)
- Automatic windows work but slow down, sometimes to a stop, occasionally, and you have to wait til they wake up.
- Needs new, OEM style hood support struts.
- Exterior Body (a little paint damage on front hood, I don't mind it though)

 

[ajax1]

2k for head gasket work since you are paying someone prob little more depending how deep you wanna go
Ls swap by hood shop prob 25k and up

You can prob do head gasket, some new seats, new radio hood struts, paint for less than 25k possibly

 

[tmxmotorsports]

In your for sale add you should mention this. You won't get much out of it with a potential headgasket problem. I would recommend replacing the headgasket with oem gasket and associated parts by a mechanic that knows what they are doing. Probably 3 grand depending on while your in there parts.

 

[Broski]

You didn’t pay to much your in 10k I think you should fix it.

 

[Fj80oregon]

How about getting a proper diagnosis his theory doesn’t hold any weight, either it’s blown or not. Maybe he could like you know do some investigating like a good mechanic shop would, start with bore scooping the cylinders through the spark plug tubes and looking for a steam cleaned piston or two, or do a test for hydro carbons in the coolant. It’s very possible to have a slight coolant leak on the head gasket and it be just fine but it will eventually fail completely.

 

[Marvelicious]

There are more than a few reasons it could stumble on startup that have nothing to do with the headgasket. You have a good leakdown test vs his theory. I think @Fj80oregon has the right idea with the borescope, and maybe have that done by a different mechanic if you aren't going to tackle it yourself. Not saying he's definitely wrong, but a second opinion is always worthwhile.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Get a new mechanic. A exhaust gas test takes 10 minutes and the kit costs less than $100.00. Black and white. Run the exhaust gas test on the radiator. Blown head gasket = bite the bullet and get it fixed. Head gasket is good = continue to drive and baseline the rig.

Even if you end up $30,000 into the rig over the next few years it will he worth it. You will have a rig as dependable as any new vehicle for $30,000 - $40,000. Much cheaper than a new truck or 4 runner

 

[Rusty Marlin]

A blue tooth cell-phone-borescope with a snake is like $20 on Amazon. You can check for a steam-cleaned piston yourself...its obvious if you find one, like really obviouse, there will be zero question in your mind.
If there's coolant in your oil you'll have carmel coloured goo under your oil cap and if its bad enough you'll have a moca shake for oil. Again really obvious.

As for general maintenance, down load a free copy of the maintenance manual. If you can read and follow instructions, you can work on these trucks; they're tractor simple. There are videos from OTRAMM and others that show how to rebuild the knuckles and do most other mechanical things in detail so you can see it first and not go in blind.
Electrically they are OBDII, get a reader and it pops a code, the reader will tell you where to start looking. And the free downloadable manual will help with the diagnosis.

As Leonard said, you can put a PILE of money into these, and you'll still be ahead in the long run.

 

[CrabCake]

As others have said, there are tests to do that aren't too difficult to get past the speculation...if your mechanic doesn't want to do these, try to find someone else for a second opinion. I know this can be easier said than done depending on your location, but Knoxville should have a pretty good off road contingency of knowledgeable people. Have you looked through the Clubhouse section for a local area group? I'm in the MD/DC/VA group and there is always excellent advice floating around that's free for the asking from your local Land Cruiser enthusiasts.

TN- STLCA

forum.ih8mud.com

Also, for your budget spent so far, I'd take out the tires from the $$ out as they are just a wear item, not a "repair"...so in the big picture, you've really only spent about $1500 on "repairs" which is nothing, especially if you are paying someone to do it. $3k for a pro head gasket job if it needs it will keep your rig rolling along for many years to come as long as you can put up with the cosmetic issues to pick away at.

Edit: And yes, try to get this diagnosed properly before you run it too long.... keep an eagle eye on your temp gauge... if you overheat it, the head gasket job gets a lot more expensive!

 

[Fj80oregon]

Good luck getting a head gasket done for 3k in Oregon Land Cruiser shops are quoting 6-10k depending on what else you replace and 6 month lead times. I need to open a shop!

 

[BBLX450]

Thanks for all the responses y'all. I'll use the Clubhouse to find another mechanic for second opinion. And ask about / see about getting a borescope.

 

[RiverCityDave]

The thing with the headgasket work (And I'm not saying its legit, just what it is) when you get that far into things on a 30 year old vehicle, there will be many complicating factors that add to the time required. You will almost certainly break electrical connectors. Numerous sensors are delicate (knock sensor comes immediately to mind at 150.00 each, and there are two in vulnerable positions) and many ways for a shop to get themselves in deep without trying if they aren't pretty comfortable with these vehicles. When you pull the intake manifold, you have to decide if you're going to just rest the lower manifold aside, which is definitely risky for the sensors and other delicate plastic bits in the area, or unplug and pull the wiring harness from under the trans across the top and snake it out of the manifold so you can take it entirely off.
I said all that to reinforce the statements above about 2k being low. I've done a few of these, and in the end, that ends up being roughly a realistic parts bill unless you focus ONLY on changing the gasket itself. Even then, you're in close to a K. Once you have it that far apart, you can see everywhere oil is leaking, or PS fluid, etc, and you start down the "well, this will be easier if I do it now than later" road, which is solid, but consumes time and money.
I look at it this way, If I'm dropping 6K on my engine, I want everything perfect. In ANY shop, they aren't going to do the "while you're in there" work for free, but NO ONE will do it for 2K.

You might consider getting the manual, and watching the @OTRAMM videos, you might just decide you can do it yourself. For 2K, you could solve a LOT of old truck problems.

New gasket, new oil cooler, new cam chain and sprockets, new water pump, all new hoses, thermostat, radiator, fan clutch, oil pressure sender and wires/connectors. Fuel injectors were cleaned, and new connectors, orings, and associated gaskets were installed. New P/S pump and hoses (I may regret not doing the gearbox, but hey...), distributor rebuild, cleaned up hardlines, and removed EGR and ABS "while I was in there."

The Tarantino foot-in croc pic is free for your enjoyment.

You can do it yourself, especially if you have even one mechanically inclined friend.

But, it all starts with a proper diagnosis.

 

[COYS]

Even if you end up $30,000 into the rig over the next few years it will he worth it

He will NEVER get that time and money back building on this bucket of an 80.

He’s not into off-roading. He doesn’t wrench. He’s in $10k and already sweating bullets.

Owning a quarter century old vintage truck isn’t his jam. Dump it and get a vehicle built for the masses.

 

[Broski]

Mine done at a shop was 3k in 2015 now that same shop (friend of mine) is 5k with all while your in there stuff.

 

[Trollhole]

Mine done at a shop was 3k in 2015 now that same shop (friend of mine) is 5k with all while your in there stuff.

That sounds about right.

 

[manofthewoods]

The thing with the headgasket work (And I'm not saying its legit, just what it is) when you get that far into things on a 30 year old vehicle, there will be many complicating factors that add to the time required. You will almost certainly break electrical connectors. Numerous sensors are delicate (knock sensor comes immediately to mind at 150.00 each, and there are two in vulnerable positions) and many ways for a shop to get themselves in deep without trying if they aren't pretty comfortable with these vehicles. When you pull the intake manifold, you have to decide if you're going to just rest the lower manifold aside, which is definitely risky for the sensors and other delicate plastic bits in the area, or unplug and pull the wiring harness from under the trans across the top and snake it out of the manifold so you can take it entirely off.
I said all that to reinforce the statements above about 2k being low. I've done a few of these, and in the end, that ends up being roughly a realistic parts bill unless you focus ONLY on changing the gasket itself. Even then, you're in close to a K. Once you have it that far apart, you can see everywhere oil is leaking, or PS fluid, etc, and you start down the "well, this will be easier if I do it now than later" road, which is solid, but consumes time and money.
I look at it this way, If I'm dropping 6K on my engine, I want everything perfect. In ANY shop, they aren't going to do the "while you're in there" work for free, but NO ONE will do it for 2K.

You might consider getting the manual, and watching the @OTRAMM videos, you might just decide you can do it yourself. For 2K, you could solve a LOT of old truck problems.

View attachment 3573619
New gasket, new oil cooler, new cam chain and sprockets, new water pump, all new hoses, thermostat, radiator, fan clutch, oil pressure sender and wires/connectors. Fuel injectors were cleaned, and new connectors, orings, and associated gaskets were installed. New P/S pump and hoses (I may regret not doing the gearbox, but hey...), distributor rebuild, cleaned up hardlines, and removed EGR and ABS "while I was in there."

View attachment 3573625

View attachment 3573626

The Tarantino foot-in croc pic is free for your enjoyment.

You can do it yourself, especially if you have even one mechanically inclined friend.

But, it all starts with a proper diagnosis.

Especially well put!
When I did mine @372k miles. My end goal was basically a new "old" beast. Even though it was working good, I PM'd everything. Pulling the engine to do seals, bearings, pistons, etc. was faster. Including everything else ~15k$. my labor was "free."
Result? A vehicle I know inside and out, and trust equal to my 200. WAY worth it.

 

[RiverCityDave]

Especially well put!
When I did mine @372k miles. My end goal was basically a new "old" beast. Even though it was working good, I PM'd everything. Pulling the engine to do seals, bearings, pistons, etc. was faster. Including everything else ~15k$. my labor was "free."
Result? A vehicle I know inside and out, and trust equal to my 200. WAY worth it.

For me, a massive part of it is building intimate knowledge with my vehicle. I tend to keep things. I have a 2000 Ducati 996 that I know every quirk of. I've done all the maintenance (save for once, when I had a guy replace the clutch hub because I broke my clutch holding tool).
Same with my wife's cars. We just had a Buick Enclave go 200,000 miles. Look up the incidence of issues with the GM 3.6 "Hi Feature" V6 . But anytime something happened, I knew what it was and how to fix it. In turn, I had the thing towed precisely zero times.

It's not for everyone, but it works for me.

 

[sonocruiser]

@BBLX450 you might want to take a look at jakeofallterrains on instagram. I've never used him so I can't speak for him or his work (he left his card in my door while I wasn't home a couple months back, probably having seen my LX parked outside), but it looks like he's an 80 series / toyota guy based in Knoxville. He's on this forum too, I found him but can't remember his username.

Also, if you plan on keeping your rig, I highly suggest investing in some tools if you're in a situation where you have the time and space to work on it yourself. They don't have to be expensive tools, harbor freight and amazon are dirt cheap and do just fine. Probably wouldn't skimp on parts. The 80 series is a breeze to work on in comparison to pretty much any other vehicle I've owned, and the cumulative experience in this forum is pretty much endless--just search before you ask, otherwise they will be d*cks to you again. Just type the following into the google search bar, the search function here sucks imo: [insert your keywords] site:forum.ih8mud.com . Don't be afraid to be a noob, I mean look at my post history, some dude hooked a quarter turn ball valve to my cooling system and deleted the EGR plugin with electrical tape and a resistor, among other fun little surprises I've found the past year.