Tearing down my HJ47 troopy

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I got a new heater control valve which was not inexpensive. It's final position will be slightly right of where it is now, so the cable goes directly thru the firewall. After I installed it, I realized it was just another job I'll re-do correctly on the second or third try. The heater control pull knob cable seems to have been cut by the previous owner, so I guess I'll be ordering that part as well. Here in Florida, the heater doesn't get used that often, but we may end up further north some day. More $$$ more $$$! Oh, I forgot to get a pedicure before I took the first pic, sorry.
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GS,

you're just about to run into the same problem i had with the valve and cable. I obtained a new valve from Australia (I suspect you may have done the same), however the HJ47 uses a unique heater pull cable with an end which looks like a version of a ballpoint pen spring, about an inch long. Every other 40 series from the same era uses a cable with an end turned in a simple double loop, like a lasso. You can't - at least I haven't been able to - make that type of heater pull cable work on the 47's valve. It could be done with some Tig welding and metal fab work I imagine.

The correct heater cable is unobtainium I'm afraid. I've checked everywhere, Australia, Japan, Europe. And I've checked two or three times trying different suppliers. I've looked at a box of 100 cables that Cruiser Parts has in NH and none were in the 47 style. It's just NLA. I've tried to get people in Australia who run wrecking yards to send me a picture of a heater cable as I'm sure they can be found in many a truck there - but I may as well ask them to cut off their left nut for the difficulty it seems to present them. I've gone through 6 wreckers so far and it seems a pic with a digital camera is simply beyond their capability. As a result, i have developed a rather low opinion of Aussie wreckers.

I've been trying to find one of these friggin' 'warm pull' cables for 4 years, on and off. At present I turn the valve on and off by popping the hood and moving the valve actuator arm manually. Hardly convenient of course.

If you find a solution, or a source for a cable, let me now!
 
I was afraid of that. Down here in Florida the heater isn't needed much, but as I mentioned, I may be relocating one day and the convenience of that heater controller may come in handy. IF I come up with a solution, you'll be the first to know. On another topic, I'm now realizing, the side slider windows and rear 1/4 windows are a different size than the 40 series. Have you found a source for these window gaskets/ weather stripping? I've been told, one has to use 2 of the smaller gaskets to make up one for our larger slider windows. And the larger 40 series 1/4 window gaskets look like they may work if they are cut down and glued back together smaller. I guess the question is, are the correct ones available anywhere?
 
I just restored my hard top and installed it for the first time. I learned the hard way... you need to leave the sides of the hard top either not bolted to the body, or leave the bolts extremely loose. Attach the roof to the side panels first. Then you'll have much better luck getting everything to fit correctly. I was actually convinced I had incorrect parts because nothing was lining up after attaching the side panels to the body first.

Keep up the good work, it's looking awesome.
 
Got some jewelry in today, and got one seat installed. On another note, I found out that the 1/4 window seal I recently ordered does fit my window, so I have no idea what this other seal I have is for. It looks like the shape of the 1/4 window but is too big. Maybe its for one of the rear ambulance door windows. I ordered it so long ago, I've forgot what its for. Anyway, the only window seal I have to modify (according to everyone I've talked to) is the 4 side (slider) windows. I just have to buy an extra seal and glue some pieces to make them longer.
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I went to hook up the A/C hoses and found out I had the wrong Dryer/receiver. The hose flanges don't match up. I found the right one on E-Bay and ordered it. The one on the left has the right nipple. $13 dollars plus shipping. I hope the quality isn't reflective of the price! I'm insulating the copper line hoping it somehow helps the cooling efficiency. We'll see.
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Thanks Tmarx.
I got a new Toyota badge for the front grill and did a restore on the original Diesel badge which apparently isn't easily available. The screen itself got sanded and resprayed. Post #668 shows the before pic.
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GSWest,


Question on your condenser lines, did you flare the copper lines and if so, what degree flare, 37 or 45. Is that a 6n or 8n fitting. I'll have to do this soon.


Thanks,
 
The copper lines are flared, the actual degree I'm not sure of. I would assume it's a standard flare, but not sure of the specifics. The first dryer I got was not the type that accommodated a flared hose connection. I got the impression that the connections may have changed after the 1980-1981 models. ??
 
Aussie Wreckers

Henry James the 47th said:
GS,

you're just about to run into the same problem i had with the valve and cable. I obtained a new valve from Australia (I suspect you may have done the same), however the HJ47 uses a unique heater pull cable with an end which looks like a version of a ballpoint pen spring, about an inch long. Every other 40 series from the same era uses a cable with an end turned in a simple double loop, like a lasso. You can't - at least I haven't been able to - make that type of heater pull cable work on the 47's valve. It could be done with some Tig welding and metal fab work I imagine.

The correct heater cable is unobtainium I'm afraid. I've checked everywhere, Australia, Japan, Europe. And I've checked two or three times trying different suppliers. I've looked at a box of 100 cables that Cruiser Parts has in NH and none were in the 47 style. It's just NLA. I've tried to get people in Australia who run wrecking yards to send me a picture of a heater cable as I'm sure they can be found in many a truck there - but I may as well ask them to cut off their left nut for the difficulty it seems to present them. I've gone through 6 wreckers so far and it seems a pic with a digital camera is simply beyond their capability. As a result, i have developed a rather low opinion of Aussie wreckers.

I've been trying to find one of these friggin' 'warm pull' cables for 4 years, on and off. At present I turn the valve on and off by popping the hood and moving the valve actuator arm manually. Hardly convenient of course.

If you find a solution, or a source for a cable, let me now!
Click to expand...


I dont have a high regard for them either :bang:
 
Well done gswest. That is one of the better refurbs i've seen. Credit to your patience and especially for documenting those trying moments. This will be a valuable archive for others in future.

Look forward to the remainder of the refurbishment
 
Hi! Great thread! I have spent a few hours trawling thru it today.

I am currently doing my own build on a 40.

I was interested to read your posts on your seats and use of the SOR upholstery. I see your passenger seat is the 1 1/2 sized, typical of oz and Nz (I am in NZ). Are the seat covers for the 1 1/2 sized passenger seat a stock item at SOR or is it a custom? Thanks!
 
Thanks for the input Bushpig and Hotpoker.
The upholstery kit for the Troopy was from SOR as you mentioned and the part number is part # 310-45RE, $325.00. It does come with both sides sized appropriately. It fitted perfectly although I paid a shop to install it.
As far as the heater control valve and push/pull cable, I ordered these parts from SOR. Part # 186-10E is the after market control valve which mounts on the fire wall and part #186-08A-A which is the push/pull cable and knob. Today I'll find out if they fit together. The SOR website seems to indicate the cable works with the valve designed for the 40 series and the valve I have is specifically noted as for the HJ47. I'll post up the finished result once I attempt the install. As HJ the 47th states, the end of the cable may not match the valves connection point. At least not without modification.
The pics show how much longer the new cable is compared to the original, but I don't know how much was cut off the original. It is much longer, which is a concern. If the cable is the right length, it looks like I can attach it by drilling small holes in the receiver part and placing a pivot pin of some sort.
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Yes, the end of the cable was not meant for the control valve I got. The control valve is correct, but as you well know (Henry James) the correct push/pull cable for the 47 isn't available.
So, I drilled small holes thru the piece that receives the cable on the control valve arm. I shortened the sheath of my new (too long) cable to the correct length. I used 2 cable stops on each side of the new control valve's swivel piece. The cable passes thru this piece and the cable stops are on each side to hold it tight. Then I shortened the cable to the correct length. On pic # 2, you see the cable passes thru the receiver, but not the way it actually goes thru it in the end pic. The receiver actually gets clocked 90 % so that the holes I drilled allow the cable to pass thru it.
It may not be the most elegant solution, but it seems to work. If I had a TIG welder, I would have done something different, but this fix is reversible and if someone comes up with a better solution, I'll modify it. But for now, I'm calling it done.
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SOR's shift boot replacement kit installed. The original shift boot was torn and this replacement boot was relatively cheap ($13.00), I think. You do have to install it which is a bit of a chore, but easily done by people like us who may be slightly obsessive. The rubber inner boot had holes in it, so I fixed that with some silicone caulk and duck tape. I reluctantly ordered a new cigarette lighter for the truck, the original one was frozen and couldn't be unscrewed. We need our smokes.. not really. Also, a milestone has occurred, the vehicle ID plate has been re-installed..... Yes!
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I'm attempting to install the rear 1/4 windows. The idea that I'm going to break this window at any minute keeps me from really trying to stretch the seal around the window. I'm assuming you put the seal on the window and then install it in the window frame. There has to be a trick, so if anyone knows this trick, let me know. I have the OEM W/S kit so the windows should fit. I put the gasket on the window frame just to see that it actually fits the space, but I couldn't get that gasket on the glass to save my life.
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