Man, looks great! I want a Troopy!
Tearing down my HJ47 troopy (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter gswest
- Start date
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looking slick.
couple ?'s for ya.
What tires are those, me encanta! Are you running the split rims or are those the 16" steelies?
Multiple part question; saw your install thread on your turbo, a)did you keep the 4:11 gearing in the 3rd member? With the 4spd? How has it managed speeds with the turbo?
seriously lookin' good.
couple ?'s for ya.
What tires are those, me encanta! Are you running the split rims or are those the 16" steelies?
Multiple part question; saw your install thread on your turbo, a)did you keep the 4:11 gearing in the 3rd member? With the 4spd? How has it managed speeds with the turbo?
seriously lookin' good.
- Thread starter
- #83
Those are the original split rims, 16 inch. They are going away, i'll probably go with a 33" mud terrain with a nice black rim. I haven't changed the gearing or tranny yet. I'm considering a 5 speed tranny and new transfer case. For around $3500 you can get a rebuilt 5 speed and transfercase. That being said, I'm running out of $$$$. So, the 5 speed and possible power steering upgrade are ???? Also, my new motor mounts, the motor is getting a new coat of paint as soon as I get it torn down.
- Thread starter
- #84
Intake manifold removal and fuel rail
After i took these items off, I tried to remove the fuel injection pump. It didn't want to come out, so I took another look at the 2h engine manual and it mentions removing the timing cover first. I can't see why that's important but I'll try it tomorrow.
After i took these items off, I tried to remove the fuel injection pump. It didn't want to come out, so I took another look at the 2h engine manual and it mentions removing the timing cover first. I can't see why that's important but I'll try it tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #85
Fuel Injection pump
She won't come out, but atleast her teets are covered.
She won't come out, but atleast her teets are covered.
Hi, new here. This thread is what made me join! It's looking real good!
I'm almost out of college and my first purchase with my new job (hopefully) will be a second car (project car in this case). I'm hoping to get a troopy to drive around the blue ridge mountains (SC/NC/TN)
I'm almost out of college and my first purchase with my new job (hopefully) will be a second car (project car in this case). I'm hoping to get a troopy to drive around the blue ridge mountains (SC/NC/TN)
- Thread starter
- #87
There is no better place to get info about these trucks. No matter what issue you're dealing with, someone else has already encountered it.
+1 counting on it!
I also liked this place because you guys seem to share a lot of "For Sale" links and ads about these trucks
So hopefully I'll find a good one on here and not have to leave the country to get one.
Sweet build! Keep the pics coming.
- Thread starter
- #90
The head is off.
I'm taking the head over to a machin shop in Port Salerno. I found a little coolant dripping out when I drained the oil. I don't think the head is warped and I don't think the head gasket is blown, but I might as well get it checked while the motor is on the stand.
I'm taking the head over to a machin shop in Port Salerno. I found a little coolant dripping out when I drained the oil. I don't think the head is warped and I don't think the head gasket is blown, but I might as well get it checked while the motor is on the stand.
- Thread starter
- #91
If anybody can tell me what is normal for these diesel engines as far as carbon build up in the cylinders, I'd appreciate it. The cylinder walls don't appear to be scored, but there is carbon build up at the top of each wall where the piston stops. That space between the top of the cylinder and the highest point of the piston travel.
- Thread starter
- #92
First new part installed
Small progress, but it is progress!
Small progress, but it is progress!
- Thread starter
- #93
Old locking hubs were plastic?
Strangely, the old locking hubs were 80% plastic, who knew? I'm happy with the all metal Warn locking hubs!!
Strangely, the old locking hubs were 80% plastic, who knew? I'm happy with the all metal Warn locking hubs!!
It is normal for engines to have a carbon ring at the top of the cilinder.
If the engine is used for small distances at a time you will see a bigger build up then when it runs longer distances with high speeds and cleaner combustion.
With worn piston rings and or valve guide caps you wuild see a little more carbon build up from engine oil.
- Thread starter
- #95
Carbon build up
Is there anything gained by cleaning the carbon off if the motor isn't getting rebuilt? I'm getting the head serviced (the pre-combustion chambers are cracked). I see these cylinder honing tools around, but I'm assuming you don't try that unless the engine is completely disassembled.
I guess it's obvious I'm no engine guru.
Is there anything gained by cleaning the carbon off if the motor isn't getting rebuilt? I'm getting the head serviced (the pre-combustion chambers are cracked). I see these cylinder honing tools around, but I'm assuming you don't try that unless the engine is completely disassembled.
I guess it's obvious I'm no engine guru.
No problem there just put a rag at the bottom of the cilinder and use some honing oil with the tool. Just run it up and down, it doesn't do much to the metal just breaks the "glaze" in the cilinder and removes the carbon. If you are nit comfortable with that you can always use waterproof sand paper (fine) to clean the carbon from the top. It is always good to clean it out. If you rev the engine more then the PO it could damage the piston rings and piston.
- Thread starter
- #97
I'll clean up the carbon
If those honing gadgets work and won't scratch the sleeve, I'll give it a try. I already planned to clean up the piston tops and top of the block so the head mates up cleanly.
Thanks for the help.
If those honing gadgets work and won't scratch the sleeve, I'll give it a try. I already planned to clean up the piston tops and top of the block so the head mates up cleanly.
Thanks for the help.
- Thread starter
- #98
Finally got the timing cover off
I got the 45 mm socket the other day so I finally got the crankshaft pulleys off and removed the timing cover. Then took off the fuel injection pump. Also took the side access covers off to reveal that freeze plug that's probably the source of that liitle bit of coolant in the oil pan.
I got the 45 mm socket the other day so I finally got the crankshaft pulleys off and removed the timing cover. Then took off the fuel injection pump. Also took the side access covers off to reveal that freeze plug that's probably the source of that liitle bit of coolant in the oil pan.
- Thread starter
- #99
Fuel injection pump
Don't know if I should have the pump looked at or just clean it up and re-install it. It seemed to work fine, but it seems a waste to have it out and not get it checked.
Don't know if I should have the pump looked at or just clean it up and re-install it. It seemed to work fine, but it seems a waste to have it out and not get it checked.
THIS BUILDUP IS TITTIES!!
Can't wait to see more progress!
How long will it take for the body to be blasted and repaired? The rust didn't look to be that bad - but you didn't show rear door sill or the normal cancer spots.
Lookin nice! I hope you rebuilt that center steering arm before you painted 'er all up nice 'n pretty! That's the cause for 60% of sloppy steering in the 40-45's.
Can't wait to see more progress!
How long will it take for the body to be blasted and repaired? The rust didn't look to be that bad - but you didn't show rear door sill or the normal cancer spots.
Lookin nice! I hope you rebuilt that center steering arm before you painted 'er all up nice 'n pretty! That's the cause for 60% of sloppy steering in the 40-45's.
