T Fitting on Heater Hose (1 Viewer)

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ljlc

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Feb 5, 2009
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I have a 1999 Series 100 with about 201k miles on her. She has been a great, great truck. My wife pulled into the driveway the other day and started losing coolant. A quick check revealed that a t-fitting on the heater hose junction had broken. The only source was the dealer, nobody carried a 3/4 by 3/4 by 5/8 t-fitting. If you are getting up in miles, you may want to order a couple of t-fitting and either change them out as a precaution, or keep them in the glove box. Had I been out in the boonies or on the highway, this could have ended up ugly. Good luck, hope this helps. Phil
 
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This is the first reported coolant hose system failure on the board. IIRC.

Thanks for telling us where to look.
 
ljlc, can you confirm it is 87248X in the picture? Is the part plastic? The part number is 87248-60460 for 98-07 UZJ100's.
1.jpg
 
those are the ones. The one on the driver's side was the one that failed on our LC. The engine side wing snapped off right at the T. I suspect that it had been leaking, albeit very slightly for a couple of weeks. I could smell coolant but couldn't track down any leaks. Pretty easy to change out, except that every spring clamp was facing in the exact opposite direction of where I needed to apply the pliers.......The remanants of the pipe were very brittle, however, I doubt that they had ever been changed, 12 years and 200,000 miles mostly in Southern California, although plenty of trips to Utah, Wyoming, Idaho and Montana in desert heat and winter cold.

Can't say enough about the LC, absolutely wonderful vehicle. Now as for our two Land Rover Discoverys......well, they have provided plenty of father and son, quality time, bonding experiences.........Phil
 
Plastic, the old ones almost looked like a bake-a-lite type material. The part that broke off in the hose that goes to the engine was very fragile, it started to break apart when I tried to pry it out of the hose. Be careful that no debris falls down the hose and into the engine.......Best to remove the hose and then pry the old plastice fitting out of the hose. Ask me how I figured that out.......All the best. Phil

I checked with Autozone, Kragen/Orielly's and Napa and nobody had the proper part. Ordered it from Mossy Toyota in Pacific Beach, San Diego Area. Retail was around $18, they charged me just $10 for each of them, two required. Ordered them on Wednesday afternoon and had them early Friday morning. By the way, I had the cooling system flushed and refilled last summer, along with a new water pump (cautionary, it was still working great) timing belt and some other associated maintenance items. Lost about a gallon of coolant. I can tell you this was much eaiser to work on and to bleed the cooling system than the Discovery IIs that I own......wow, what pains in the tails those are to bleed......In fact, I have one that is nigh onto impossible to get the air out of.
 
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Thanks for the tip! I agree...I would hate to have it blow while on a trail!
 
ljlc said:
those are the ones. The one on the driver's side was the one that failed on our LC. The engine side wing snapped off right at the T. I suspect that it had been leaking, albeit very slightly for a couple of weeks. I could smell coolant but couldn't track down any leaks. Pretty easy to change out, except that every spring clamp was facing in the exact opposite direction of where I needed to apply the pliers.......The remanants of the pipe were very brittle, however, I doubt that they had ever been changed, 12 years and 200,000 miles mostly in Southern California, although plenty of trips to Utah, Wyoming, Idaho and Montana in desert heat and winter cold.

Can't say enough about the LC, absolutely wonderful vehicle. Now as for our two Land Rover Discoverys......well, they have provided plenty of father and son, quality time, bonding experiences.........Phil
Click to expand...
This why I try to replace the factory clamps with traditional screw type hose clamps whenever I do work that requires removing them on any of my Land Cruisers.

I spent two hours getting on of those stupid clamps off the smog pump on my FJ60 last weekend. It was probably installed at the factory before the engine was in the truck. :mad:
 
rusty_tlc said:
This why I try to replace the factory clamps with traditional screw type hose clamps whenever I do work that requires removing them on any of my Land Cruisers.
Click to expand...

These are much better than most screw type clamps and provide more evenly distributed pressure. I find they remove easily with a properly sized Visegrip. Just reinstall in a position for better access.
 
this just happened to me last week, luckily I was only stranded a few blocks from home. after visiting 8 parts houses with no results i had to order from local toyota dealer and received the next morning. was an easy fix with the proper parts, but you wouldn't want this to happen to you out of town....:hmm:
 
wonder how hard it would be to source a metal one... looks like a simple design. I need to check mine tomorrow.
 
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Well...when I installed my original Helton hot water heater years ago I used the 90* plastic elbows from then Kragen auto parts. They were designed for coolant use: Right and Not! I noticed within a year or two at the most, at home fortunately, they were in the process of cracking/seeping. So I replaced them with SS from MMC. No more problems/worries about those. I've wondered about the plastic OEM tees you are having issue with...

The SS tees are spendy for sure but the brass are tolerable especially given the peace of mind they'd bring. I'm relatively certain the OEM hoses are 15/16mm at that point so 5/8" should do the trick.
 
spressomon said:
Well...when I installed my original Helton hot water heater years ago I used the 90* plastic elbows from then Kragen auto parts. They were designed for coolant use: Right and Not! I noticed within a year or two at the most, at home fortunately, they were in the process of cracking/seeping. So I replaced them with SS from MMC. No more problems/worries about those. I've wondered about the plastic OEM tees you are having issue with...

The SS tees are spendy for sure but the brass are tolerable especially given the peace of mind they'd bring. I'm relatively certain the OEM hoses are 15/16mm at that point so 5/8" should do the trick.
Click to expand...

Interesting, I may give these a shot. I will try to source some that aren't as pricey. I have seen something very similar at Home Depot and Lowes in the plumbing section. I'm almost positive they have metal and brass ones sitting on the shelf that will work perfectly.
 
I bought those brass T fitting and installed them today - what a PITA. The OEM hose clips were all upside down making it nearly impossible to get them off.

If they had been more accessible, it would have taken maybe 30-45 minutes for both - instead if took about 2 hours.
IMG-20110416-00033.jpg
 
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