Check Your Heater Valve (1 Viewer)

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Check your heater valves. I proactively replaced mine as I was suspicious it might be getting brittle. Good thing I did as one end of it was deteriorating under the hose.

Could this be the new PHH, that fails when we least expect it?

h valve.jpg
h valve.jpg
 
Could you post a part number for that? I suspect mine isn't closing off completely, causing my ac to not be as cold, and my vent to run warm.
 
oh boy. that doesn't look so good
 
All hoses were replaced (including PHH), although a few years ago already. Heater valve looked fine at the time.

Part number is 87240-60140 and is available from your favorite CPartsMan.

Good news is, it takes less than an hour to replace and I didn't drain an ounce of coolant. Just remove actuator cable, loosen the hose clamps, remove mounting bolts, keep the valve closed, pull off left side and insert in new valve, then right side, slightly snug clamps, attach mounting bolts, re-adjust clamps, attach cable and Bob's your uncle. Make sure to properly adjust cable so closed is closed and open is open.
 
LOL at the "and then bob's your uncle" comment! :)

great find and thanks for the post!
 
Sounds good to me.
 
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My point was in post#4 was to not assume that just because hoses look good, doesn't mean they are good. When you pull hoses off, it's the perfect opportunity to check out hose condition, connections, passages, clamps and backflush the whole system. There is no way to predict failure, you can only use good judgment and experience and be a pessimist. When in doubt, replace. And use distilled or at least filtered water to mix with the coolant.
 
My point was in post#4 was to not assume that just because hoses look good, doesn't mean they are good. When you pull hoses off, it's the perfect opportunity to check out hose condition, connections, passages, clamps and backflush the whole system. There is no way to predict failure, you can only use good judgment and experience and be a pessimist. When in doubt, replace. And use distilled or at least filtered water to mix with the coolant.

I totally agree. Hoses and clamps are most always neglected.
 
where is this located in the bay?
 
Top center of fire wall, just behind the engine. It's got hoses leading to it from either side and has two bolts securing it to the firewall.
 
Actually, this is an excellent graphic example why you should be draining and flushing your coolant system every other year at minimum. The coolant turns into a substance that can attack a lot of materials. So don't neglect!!

DougM
 
mine was leaking or some bad business when i picked up my truck. replaced it as well. pretty reasonably, dan rocks them for less than 70. mighta been 50 even, not sure, but its a bargain
 
Actually, this is an excellent graphic example why you should be draining and flushing your coolant system every other year at minimum. The coolant turns into a substance that can attack a lot of materials. So don't neglect!!

DougM

Amen to that. There was another recent thread where the guy was tearing into his rad, and many of the holes in the header plate were blocked/clogged. Not only does the coolant degrade over time, but so do (does?) the interior walls of the hoses, which then circulate and accumulate that sludge in other places. Hence the directive to flush every couple years or so.

I encountered a similar situation with my heater valve, my short hose has had pink crusties for years, started really leaking a couple weeks ago (all original, with those Toyota brand clamps and all), had it replaced, and the mechanic tells me the heater valve is "gone." "Gone?" "Gone." Handed me a small piece of mushy formerly plastic bulge. I actually used the search function here on MUD, and there was nothing at that time...until this post.

Excellent and timely thread. :cheers:
 
All hoses were replaced (including PHH), although a few years ago already. Heater valve looked fine at the time.

Part number is 87240-60140 and is available from your favorite CPartsMan.

Good news is, it takes less than an hour to replace and I didn't drain an ounce of coolant. Just remove actuator cable, loosen the hose clamps, remove mounting bolts, keep the valve closed, pull off left side and insert in new valve, then right side, slightly snug clamps, attach mounting bolts, re-adjust clamps, attach cable and Bob's your uncle. Make sure to properly adjust cable so closed is closed and open is open.

OK, I should clarify this. It only takes a few minutes when you don't have to replace hoses and clamps and therefore don't have to drain the system. I would say if you still have OEM hose clamps on the heater hoses on your truck, you need to replace all the hoses and all the clamps and the heater valve. I wouldn't begin to trust a hose so old it still has the orginal "cotter pin" style clamps on it. That's just begging for failure at the worst possible time.
 
Thanks for the part number. I appreciate it. When you discuss, "Make sure to properly adjust cable so closed is closed and open is open." what do you mean?

Roger
 
bump
my heater valve failed- one nipple was 75% gone to corrosion/age.
trying to source one from a 75- they assume no rear heater so the routing slightly better. If I find it, I'll post up pics and part #.
 
I had to replace the one on my '97 last year. One of the nipples crumbled to pieces when I pulled the hose off.:mad: IIRC, the mileage was around 115K. I'm pretty sure the same thing is happening to the LX because I see a little bit of dried up antifreeze around the hose.:rolleyes::)
 

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