Sway bars and quick disconnect questions....

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May 9, 2016
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Location
St. Croix
What is the consensus about using or not using the factory sway bar. I have heard some say lose it and others say its unsafe and use quick disconnects for sway bar when off road. I am running the 2-3in lift from toytec with bilstein 5100s and eibach springs. Does anyone out there have pictures of sway bar quick disconnects and their operation. Or just remove the whole sway bar and links? Help me out here a little. I stay under 40mph 80% of my driving time.
 
No help here but curious to see if this takes off. A long-time LC guru here in Az. (@LandCruiserPhil) used to sell some quick disconnects, he might wander over with an opinion or two but I've got nothing to personally offer on the topic.

Sorry to drag you to the dark side Phil :).
 
What is the consensus about using or not using the factory sway bar. I have heard some say lose it and others say its unsafe and use quick disconnects for sway bar when off road. I am running the 2-3in lift from toytec with bilstein 5100s and eibach springs. Does anyone out there have pictures of sway bar quick disconnects and their operation. Or just remove the whole sway bar and links? Help me out here a little. I stay under 40mph 80% of my driving time.


Here is a link to a couple pages on the subject Front swaybar quick disconnects revisited and tested
 
No, 80 is completely different.
 
I deleted my front and rear sways (factory) and added the FJ antirock sway to the rear with valved secondaries front and valved primaries rear. I dial them to hard for on road to reduce body roll and the rear antirock does a good enough job.
 
To resurrect this thread ……
I hear differing opinions on sway bar disconnects for our vehicles. Disconnects obviously make a lot of sense for slow offroading on solid front axles (SFA) for flex and keeping tires contacted to dirt/rock. However, I hear other opinions for independent front suspension vehicles (IFS). I’ve been told that it really provides little to no benefit for IFS vehicles. To me, it still seems intuitively like it might provide some benefit, but I would like to hear some personal experience for those that offroad their GX (formerly KDSS preferred) and have tried disconnecting front or rear sway bars.

For reference, my 04 GX came stock with KDSS with the height adjusted rear bags. It now has the KDSS delete (conversion) to 2.5” lift with the front on Toytech adjustable struts with SPC upper control arms, rear bag-conversion to IronMan hi-load 600lb rear springs (increased weight of MetalTech bumpers and gear) with extended rear ICON shocks.

If anyone has any personal experience ( not “I heard….” or “a buddy of mine said ….”) I would appreciate some information.
 
If you have a KDSS rig, your best bet is to go back to KDSS. The benefits of KDSS far outweigh those of swaybar disconnects.
 
Me and my buddy go out all the time, his is a 2005, mine 2003 . Neither have kdss. Same lift, he is on 285s, I’m on 265s. He took his front sway bar off right before this trip and we were amazed on the difference. Taking the same lines he was planted were I was lifting. Night and day off-roading.. BUT driving in his truck is just about scary. The body roll is tremendous. There is company’s making bigger rear sway bars that may help. IMO.. I don’t think it’s worth it on a daily driver with IFS.
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Me and my buddy go out all the time, his is a 2005, mine 2003 . Neither have kdss. Same lift, he is on 285s, I’m on 265s. He took his front sway bar off right before this trip and we were amazed on the difference. Taking the same lines he was planted were I was lifting. Night and day off-roading.. BUT driving in his truck is just about scary. The body roll is tremendous. There is company’s making bigger rear sway bars that may help. IMO.. I don’t think it’s worth it on a daily driver with IFS. View attachment 3750045

View attachment 3750046
I have a HD Nolathane 24mm rear sway bar and it helped quite a bit to stabilize the front which has the sway bar removed.

I also have HD front coilovers Bilstein 6112s and rear long travel ICON 56550 shocks and Dobinson C59-675V springs with spacers (equivalent to the 677V).

It drives stable on curves at highway speeds and curvy mountain roads. I would say that it’s like 80% back to normal as if I had both sway bars.

When I had the stock oem rear sway bar and no front sway bar…it was sketchy driving on the street and highway. This is why I upgraded the rear sway bar.
 

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