Swapping in a 700R behind my small block (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Moved it to a different part of my parents driveway last night so the welder would reach... filled the tranny.

checked this evening and FAWK, it's pouring ATF out...

Thought complaining about it on here would be much more fun than working on it out there :flipoff2:

Ih8pulling the t-cases
 
I am so sorry to hear that.....I have pulled my t-cases several times and now have just excepted the minor leaks I have....Those damm things are heavy....and a pain in the ass to install....
 
I just figured out where the leak is.... I didn't RTV it where the adapter plate bolts to the tranny... this sucks. T-cases have to come ALL the way out to even get to the bolts...

Tim, how the heck do you get your tranny or t-cases in and out. It's be all day jobs for me to pull out one or the other.

Thanks
Chris
 
Chris,

I start by pulling the split case apart athen the 203....do what ever I need to do and then put the 203 up and bolt it together...then add the front of the splitcase and then the back....I don't have the upper body strenght to lift the whole thing into place as one piece...I have tried several ways and this seems to work the best until I can find a house with a big enough garage to put a lift in:) :)
 
Progress? What's that? I redid a bunch of stuff that I had already done... chasing leaks. Now I have to wait 24 hrs for the RTV to set :crybaby: This thing is taking forever! I'm hoping it'll drive around the yard on Thursday so I can register for Coal Miners.... wish me luck or send me :beer:!

To pull the cases out I put a 2x4 shim under the NP203 and then a 2x6 under both set on the top of a couple of cinder blocks... used a come-a-long to drag the the cases apart from the transmission and then pushed it forward when I was done. I was able to pull the cases apart, RTV them and slide them back together, by myself in 2-3 hrs. Worked really well... no pictures... for insurance reasons ;)

I was wondering today why I'd never noticed the lack of A/C in the cruiser.... then I figured it out. I have owned this thing for two summers and it hasn't run for either of them...
 
Last edited:
haha... I got it all put back together and went to fire it up, and in true cruiser fashion nothing happened. I let it turn over for a while assuming that it was taking a bit to get gas to the carb...

I was too frustrated to spend anymore time with it after that but Monday evening I'll start with that again. Missed GSMTR and CMCC again this year.... bummer.
 
Progress!... well kinda. I got the engine running again and the t-cases back together... looks like it might still be leaking a little though. Can't get it to run out of the gas tank though. I've got 6 gallons in there... is that enough to get gas up to the pickup? Is one of the two hoses coming out of the front definately an out?

Too bad I can't drive it cause no one in the surrounding area can get either a hard line long enough to go across the firewall to where the axle is OR a freekin metric connector (however they keep saying they do... selling me them... and I keep finding out they're standard).

Ready to set it on fire...

Chris
 
Chris,

What do you need to make it move??? I don't understand what you need??

As for yanking t-cases I am pulling mine yet again this week to try again...I am pretty tired of that project:mad:
 
Haha, I have no brakes... and currently no fuel going from the tank to the fuel pump... and I'm a sissy and am afraid to find out if my tranny will shift :doh:

Tomarrow I'll go at it again....

What are you workin on with yours out? (so there's something tech related in this "build up" thread full of complaining about workin on the rig... yes I see the irony)
 
Give details on your fuel setup Chris. I may be able to help troubleshoot it for you.
 
Chris I will give you some good news first.....'

I drove my truck both Friday and Saturday night to work...it is like 7 miles each way...got me there and back both times....That was huge for me....still got a check engine light but will work on that....

What is bothering me are the leaks....I have a very minor leak between the halves of the split case...and a somewhat larger leak between the out put of the tranny and the 203 adaptor....

So the plan is to build a tranny jack adaptor for my floor jack and try yet again to seal the leaks...then try pressure testing the cooling system then on to the check engine light...never ending but getting to drive it last weekend made all the difference in the world...renewed motivation...
 
Congrads on driving it! I also have a big leak between the tranny and the Adapter. I've got RTV (oil resistance kind) against the outter lip of the tranny as well as the inner lip. Mine leaks there as well as through the JB weld that I stuck in the bolt holes for the 2 wheel drive motor mount.

I'm getting frustrated cause my motor swap went so smoothly that I was expecting to hook everything up and basically have it working... then trouble shoot... however it's taken me over a month to get it together.

fuel situation... remember it's a carbed 350 so it's a mechinical pump, and it ran with a short line dropped down in a bucket so the pump's ok. I wasn't getting gas out of the tank... I only had 6 gallons in it though and I'm thinking there wasn't enough to get to the pickup. I also had the feeling that I had my "in and out" lines switched at the tank.

At least it's not eating money... just time... which I have enough of... now if I could just find the motivation to work on it...

Thanks for the input
Chris
 
Chris,


I am right there with you on the leak.....I threw some RTV on a couple of short bolts and hoped for the best...nope...still leaks there...guess it will all come back out and see what I can see from the back of the tranny...I have a 700r4...

:beer: :beer:
 
Chris- There should be 2 hard lines from the fuel tank running side by side along the passenger frame rail and turning up and ending at the firewall. The line closest to the front of the rig should be your fuel outlet (to fuel pump) and the one behind it closer to the firewall should be the fuel return line which you can run up and put a fuel filter on to vent the tank.

On the fuel outlet line you can run fuel line to your mechanical pump with a fuel filter placed somewhere along the line.

That's how mine is setup and it works :cheers:
 
Progress

Front yard poser shots

P6120019.jpg


P6120020.jpg



Got it going today. Double Low rocks so far. There's still a few leaks and no exhaust but it's good to drive it... even a 1/4 mile.

Tech questions:
1. How much fluid do I put in the NP203... I've got it filled up to the bottom of the PTO cover.

2. Transmission. It drives forward... that's it so far. No park, nuetral or reverse... it drives forward in all gears. Then in park when the tab is supposed to enuage to lock the output it grinds because the output shaft was still spinning. I drove it for 5 mins and only about a 1/4 mile in double low so I don't guess it got hot enough to burn all of the petroleum jelly up and hope work the air out? It also didn't hit second gear. Are these really bad signs?
 
I would stay between half way up the cover and the second set of bolts from the bottom of the cover. DO NOT go more than half way up the cover or you will pump it out when it gets hot through the vent. I know.

No answers for you on the tranny, sorry.
 
How would you fill it up futher than the bottom of the cover?
 
I had made a brass nipple attached to fuel line hose that could be inserted into one of the cover bolt holes and filled it up that way. It takes awhile and is a pain. I then just cut a hole in the middle of the plate and welded a nut to it and threaded in a plug.

I don't know if just filling to the bottom of the cover is enough, it might be, I'm not sure where the level is when the NP203 is a complete unit. All I know is that over half way up the cover isn't good.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom