Supplemental / extra steering stabilizer (1 Viewer)

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SE Pennsylvania
Anyone running a bolt-on supplemental steering stabilizer with mild lift (2.5") and mostly stock gear?
was considering adding this as another layer of stabilization.

Also curious how it looks since its down on the axle not tucked up by the frame. Any pics to share?

Screen Shot 2024-11-25 at 8.00.28 AM.png
 
Anyone running a bolt-on supplemental steering stabilizer with mild lift (2.5") and mostly stock gear?
was considering adding this as another layer of stabilization.

Also curious how it looks since its down on the axle not tucked up by the frame. Any pics to share?

View attachment 3779669
When I picked mine up a couple of months ago it had a supplemental stabilizer already installed. So. I cannot speak to better/worse scenario but I can tel you that mine steers very easily. Kinda hard to see it but if you look closely you can make it out.

IMG_3383.jpeg
 
Why ? If your caster is good you don't need it
Caster can be good, but the roads are almost always imperfect. The factory calls it a 'dampener,' not a steering stabilizer. It might take some of the impact that the off-road can exhibit on the center arm and steering box.

I'd prefer to make it happen in the stock location. That skyjacker option needs an aesthetic make-over with a gloss black Rustoleum rattle can. Old Man Emu makes one for the stock location that should work with lift. I still need to install my new OEM one (no lift).
 
Caster can be good, but the roads are almost always imperfect. The factory calls it a 'dampener,' not a steering stabilizer. It might take some of the impact that the off-road can exhibit on the center arm and steering box.

I'd prefer to make it happen in the stock location. That skyjacker option needs an aesthetic make-over with a gloss black Rustoleum rattle can. Old Man Emu makes one for the stock location that should work with lift. I still need to install my new OEM one (no lift).


My comment was about the second aftermarket one , just the factory set up is all it take
Those are for saginaw converted 40
 
The '80s are calling, they want their extra shocks and steering stabilizers back.
 
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Not the best pictures of the stabilizer because they were in progress photos of my steering conversion. The steering stabilizer is there… tucked in tight.
IMG_9097.jpeg

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I ran 2 for many years. Here’s how I managed to have it stuffed in. Before everything was rebuilt and when I was running 33x12.50s it seemed to help.

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And here’s how it is now with a Monroe 60 series stabilizer in “stock” position after my Scout II P/S conversion.

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If the bellows was Red, the truck would go faster, Red stuff always indicates Go-Fast upgrades.

I have Saginaw steering and use a Ranchero version clamped to the axel and tie rod…..and of course a Red bellows. I’m not sure if it helps, but it doesn’t hurt. In fact I choose it because of the red bellows.

I had a Ford truck years ago, with a twin I-Beam front suspension……it would wiggle and wobble down the road. Based on a suggestion from one of my shipmates (yep, poor enlisted puke in Jimmy Carters Navy), I replaced the steering damper……and by golly, it helped. What cured it…..trading it in for a new(er) truck🤣🤣🤣🤣
 
Buyer beware.... I had one of those for a few years until the bracket with the 90 degree bend decided to break during mild wheeling. Steering binded up and I had remove it to continue. Glad I was going slow, could have been dangerous on the street if it broke there. These might be slightly beneficial for manual steering but I don't think they are necessary for power steering set ups.
 
You wanted a picture:

DSC00706.JPG


This was in Nov. 2013 before I installed my Saginaw power steering. I was riding on Burbank springs that were 2" or 2 1/2" lift but rode like a brick. Don't remember the brand of the dampener but one end was mounted to the axle housing outside the spring and the other mounted to the tie rod. Tried to keep things parallel to the axle housing.

I've since replaced springs with OME and completely rebuilt both axles. After the rebuild I held off installing a dampener and to my surprise it wasn't needed. Sometimes less is more! You do need to have proper caster and toe-in.

The final result June 2014 below.

Front suspension and steering.jpg
 
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I ran a stock and and an after market dampener and I don't think it helped. The stock steering set up had to many moving parts and what I was really going for was to fix the bump steer. It was so bad one time my left hand slipped off of the wheel and went under the rim and my watch was driven up my arm.

With the new steering arrangement I will wait to see if it even needs one. If it does I will have to figure out how it will attach with my high steering and I trussed the long end of the axle.

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You wanted a picture:

View attachment 3780551

This was in Nov. 2013 before I installed my Saginaw power steering. I was riding on Burbank springs that were 2" or 2 1/2" lift but rode like a brick. Don't remember the brand of the dampener but one end was mounted to the axle housing outside the spring and the other mounted to the tie rod. Tried to keep things parallel to the axle housing.

I've since replaced springs with OME and completely rebuilt both axles. After the rebuild I held off installing a dampener and to my surprise it wasn't needed. Sometimes less is more! You do need to have proper caster and toe-in.

The final result June 2014 below.

View attachment 3780567
I'm sure, with the Scout II Saginaw box, that the damper isn't needed, but I feel that if it offers any protection to the steering box it's worth having. The damper was $50 vs getting a rebuilt Scout II steering box for $500+ if I can track one down.
 
So…..I see the debate as ‘do you’ or ‘don’t you’ need a steering stabilizer. I’m in the frame of mind that if the Toyota Engineers thought enough to include one, why shouldn’t I include one.

Also, the damper is NOT a fix for poor alignment, especially caster….ain’t gonna’ cure death wobble. And it ain’t gonna’ cure sloppy, loose/worn linkage components.

However, it dose provide a buffer (a slight resistance to motion) between road imperfection and a twitchy steering wheel, especially if you’ve upgraded from a manual box to power steering….adds just a tad of resistance to steering input and steering feedback.

When I installed the Saginaw box, I lost my mounting point on the tie rod….so the aftermarket attachment points (axle and tie rod) had to suffice. Does it improve the drive? Don’t know for sure, but as I stated above, Toyota put one in there, so why shouldn’t I. And if you look at most factory solid front axle trucks (Ford, Dodge, Chevy), they also have one. Call me a copycat, but there is a reason for their choice.

And a Red One, no matter the manufacturer, is very racy looking!
 
The truck feels fine in forward gears. The castor and steering feels all wrong going down hills in reverse or neutral. Add some uneven terrain, and the steering wheel has a mind of its own.

After a while, you'll see that shopping carts need tie-rods, I think. But certainly, hand-brakes for shopping carts. I need to build LED brake lights for pedal-type-bicycles. Anyone know how to start a manufacturing business?
 
First is the time value of money - your money and time might be better spent elsewhere; you will not know until your run the numbers. Youtube has lots of start up advice vids. Second thing is to incorporate as an Limited Liability Corp to help protect you if something goes south. Patent are rich people play ground - it cost money to get them and a lot more to enforce them.

I accept the concept that copying is the sincerest form of flattery. If your design is good enough to copy you did well.

I have a design to convert my VA issue wheelchair into a cargo rickshaw I can pull/push on foot or pull behind the Mt. bike. Even better behind the my pedal 4 wheeler design - only 2 wheel paths and no balance issues. The 4 wheeler enclosed trailer converts the 4 wheel bike to a paddle boat. Plus use the spare wheel for wind or micro hydro to supplement the solar panels for LED lighting, commo and other things electricity is really good at. I designed the wheel hubs to take roller bearing and quick disconnect pit pin fittings that will also be used on the wheel chair because the factory (bastard size rims) don't accept wide tires for cross country use.

IMHO it a lot easier to sell really good plans than products. You can ship them for nearly free over the internet.
 
... Second thing is to incorporate as an Limited Liability Corp to help protect you if something goes south.

^^^
THIS for sure. For liability protection, and the tax benefits are enormous; worth it just for that. In many states you can file for a corporation of any kind online, for minimal fees, without a lawyer, accountant, or anything.
 

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