**********Super HAMOM: August 20-21*********

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the A-Team rocked..."I PITTY DA FOOL"
 
dude, if you get the welding close I'm great with some body filler. Metal glaze...they sell it at finish masters. It's a little under fourty bucks for enough to do about 12 fenders. It won't flake off like bondo and is easier to work with than all-metal.

Just get some sand paper pads for an 18" body sanding block and i can help you out one evening when it starts cooling down. I don't like wet sanding with my own sweat, the stuff makes a mess when sanding down.

Just let me know how much $$ to bring or where to pick up stuff and what i need. No idea where finish masters is.
 
Just let me know how much $$ to bring or where to pick up stuff and what i need. No idea where finish masters is.

i'm pretty sure the shops name is finish masters. It's on 183 near the intersection of 253....right across from all the little mexican shops/clubs/apartments before you get to Dover machine shop.

I'll double check the name as i pass by there everday on my way to work but it's a few hours before the open their doors.


So long as my mom doesn't end up having to do anything on the 21st i have a sitter lined up for the day.

I'll be more than glad to meed up with you and help you fill a shopping cart up!
mainly just need the paper for my block and some misc paper for wet sanding, the filler and the rattle can paint of your choice.
 
If I can make it (i plan on it), I have a spare 80 series door that anyone who wants to play weld on it can.
 
I'll be there Friday with parts for a front axle rebuild. See yall there!
 
anyone got any idea of how much gear oil/bearing grease i need for my knuckle/wheel bearing rebuild?
 
If I remember correctly I used one can of red high speed grease for the WB's and 1 can of moly grease for each knuckle. You don't have to pack the knuckle completely full unless you don't plan on being in there for another 150k miles. If you plan to wheel, expect birfield breakage at some point and only fill the knuckle about 1/2-3/4 full. Get the cheap stuff as the synthetics aren't worth it here.

Valvoline makes good WB grease and the generic stuff in the big plastic tub works good for the knuckles.

Perhaps someone in the club should this stuff in bulk and use a coupon or something for a discount for everyone. I am sure you could return what isn't used.

Jeremy
 
thanks for the info! I don't plan on doing alot of wheeling (since i have yet to do any wheeling since i purchased the rig) unless you count pulling my boat in/out of hartwell wheeling.

What about the gear oil...or do i not have to drain the front diff to do the knuckles
 
thanks for the info! I don't plan on doing alot of wheeling (since i have yet to do any wheeling since i purchased the rig) unless you count pulling my boat in/out of hartwell wheeling.

What about the gear oil...or do i not have to drain the front diff to do the knuckles

Yes, you need gear oil to drain the front diff prior to doing the knuckles.
 
Know need to drain the diff unless you think it all leaked into the knuckles. You can drain it or top it off while you are under there anyways. It's cheap and easy.

For the diff grab 3 qts. of the cheapest 90W gear oil you can find.

Jeremy
 
Didn't think that you "had" to. The fill plug is below the axle tube so unless you are working on an incline all the fluid should stay in the diif, not run out the end of the axle tube. Right?

Jeremy

Until you pull the inner axle seal. Can always try it first though and see if you have it perfectly level. I always drain.
 
I guess the one I did was low then as we didn't have any run out. Better tell the guy to top it off.:D

The one I did on my 40 was a new bare axle build from start to finish, so I didn't have to worry about this.

Jeremy
 
i believe i'll just pick up a gallon, the stuff is cheap enough. I'll be needing some extra for the H55 when it comes in later this week anyway.
 
Get a pump for it too, or make sure someone from UC brings one.

Jeremy

just stick the gear oil in a bucket of hot water until its warm, then you can fill it with a tube from the topside.
 
Get a pump for it too, or make sure someone from UC brings one.

Jeremy

are you talking about to re fill it?

on the rear axle i was able to pour it into a small pint container with a small nozzle on the tip and it fit fine. I might have to look at it tonight (have to crawl under it anyway for some measurements of the oil pan anyway). sucks i threw away my old fuel pump primer ball off of my boat last week...that would have worked great.
 
just stick the gear oil in a bucket of hot water until its warm, then you can fill it with a tube from the topside.

are you talking about to re fill it?

on the rear axle i was able to pour it into a small pint container with a small nozzle on the tip and it fit fine. I might have to look at it tonight (have to crawl under it anyway for some measurements of the oil pan anyway). sucks i threw away my old fuel pump primer ball off of my boat last week...that would have worked great.

Whatever works, several ways to skin a cat.

Have fun,
Jeremy
 
thanks for the heads up, the linkage is all in the way of the fill plug. Will have to use a pump or small containter to fill it.

Being that i don't think i'm the only planning an axle rebuild i'm guessing if i need a tool i might be able to borrow one :)

i will bring all my tools from the shop but being that i have not done this before i might end up being a little ill prepared
 

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