Schedule begins Friday evening. Other than that there is no schedule.
**********Super HAMOM: August 20-21*********
- Thread starter Trollhole
- Start date
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Sounds good, hopefully I can get the 40 running this week in the evenings and will be free to come stay Friday night and put my lift on along with helping others before heading back home Friday afternoon.
Jeremy
Jeremy
Thinking about bringing the ice cream churn up for ice cream. I gotta make some saturday for kids party so u guys can be my practice run. Can someone bring cups and spoons?? Thinking of making mint choclate chip. Will be 1st time though.
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
if the wife will let me i'll come fri night and help you guys out. I really need to see a "how to" on the knuckle rebuild before i tackle mine.
I will try to have my body lift on before sat so i have more time to drink beer
I will try to have my body lift on before sat so i have more time to drink beer
The best thing to do is see if anyone nearby has an FSM that you could be looking over this week. You really should order a set from Toyota if you plan on wrenching yourself.
Jeremy
Jeremy
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
i've downloaded a copy. I really need to jot down the torque specs, the rest seems pretty streight forward. I don't recall what needs to be re-torqued on these things, wheel hubs maybe? but i do recall that something has torque specs on it.
My main concern is how to properly remove/install seals/bearings and tools needed to do said removal/install which is why i have not tackeled this job at my shop yet. I want to make sure that i install/remove them without damaging anything.
Torque wrench.........Up to 100 ft/lb (i have)
Brass drift...........6" long, 1/2" bar or brass hammer. Used to loosen cone washers (don't have)
Hub socket............2-1/8" socket or 54mm if you can find one (don't have)
Seal puller...........T-type (dont have)
Snap Ring pliers......Get the pliers with a flat surface. (don't have)
Spring Scale for setting wheel bearing preload. I got mine from a fishing tackle shop. (dont have)
those are the tools that are needed. I have the torque wrench but that's it. And the part about tensioning the hubs once you put it back together really confuses me so i'm hoping someone can clue me in on that part.
yes, it's a shame that i don't have snap ring pliars at a shop, i've been through countless pairs in five years. It seem that every time i replace a spindle assy in an snapper rear engine rider i break them. Finally i started using some filed down small flat head screw drivers and i stopped having issues with broken snap ring pliar fingers on every job.
My main concern is how to properly remove/install seals/bearings and tools needed to do said removal/install which is why i have not tackeled this job at my shop yet. I want to make sure that i install/remove them without damaging anything.
Torque wrench.........Up to 100 ft/lb (i have)
Brass drift...........6" long, 1/2" bar or brass hammer. Used to loosen cone washers (don't have)
Hub socket............2-1/8" socket or 54mm if you can find one (don't have)
Seal puller...........T-type (dont have)
Snap Ring pliers......Get the pliers with a flat surface. (don't have)
Spring Scale for setting wheel bearing preload. I got mine from a fishing tackle shop. (dont have)
those are the tools that are needed. I have the torque wrench but that's it. And the part about tensioning the hubs once you put it back together really confuses me so i'm hoping someone can clue me in on that part.
yes, it's a shame that i don't have snap ring pliars at a shop, i've been through countless pairs in five years. It seem that every time i replace a spindle assy in an snapper rear engine rider i break them. Finally i started using some filed down small flat head screw drivers and i stopped having issues with broken snap ring pliar fingers on every job.
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- Thread starter
- #67
Pliers should look like this on the end.
Also get a set of cheap bearing race tools. Like this. Usually under 20 dollars.
I want to have round tubing i can see about some measurements tonight, I really am not sure how much I need but I think 10' of tube would be more than enough, especially if its cheap. I have only seen one or 2 mounts like the one I want and they were both online and I did not like the design of one of them. Ill see if I cant do a paint picture or possible draw something out by hand.
Ill bring the springs anyways and if you cant use them just pass them on to someone else, I would think you are going to need some overload of some kind once you get a diesel.
edit: Went and took some measurements.
I think if the bedside has enough strength to hold it then a 1' piece of 1 3/4" to come out horizontal and bent up to the height needed to mount the rim, this would come back through the bead liner where underneath a few pieces of square or round would be vertical from underlip of bedside to the floor.
I am not sure if the bed side alone is strong enough to mount the rim/tire to or if I need to run a support around to the bed. I may just hold off on the idea unless someone can show me a better way to do it or thinks my idea will work and or make sense?
I have some square tube that I need to get welded down for my seat mounts as well so I should have more than enough projects if someone who can weld can help me. I have wanted to learn for years and even bought a nice one, but never learned.
I do still need some light tabs on my front bumper and think I have a piece that will work. So I may go ahead and bring my lightforce 240s to mount up and the wiring for them, should be a good little project if nothing else. Then maybe I can actually see at night.
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dohcdelsol93
snoogans
i went through the tubing next door and nothing was really all that good...mostly rusty/thin crap and could not find anything that was not bent to crap over 2-3ft long.
I did find an old trailer solid axle with hub on it. I'm going to ask what's up with it, that tubing would be plenty strong and you could cut the hub off and re-weld it at 90'deg...or your desired angle for the mount.
I'll find out more tomorrow when the big boss man comes in.
i'll hit up harbor freight tomorrow and see what kind of tools they have there. I really hate shopping there because the tools don't last but i hope i don't need to use them for another 100K...and i guess you can't really make cheap seal drivers (i usually just use a rubber mallet and a proper sized socket) but i don't have sockets this big.
I did find an old trailer solid axle with hub on it. I'm going to ask what's up with it, that tubing would be plenty strong and you could cut the hub off and re-weld it at 90'deg...or your desired angle for the mount.
I'll find out more tomorrow when the big boss man comes in.
i'll hit up harbor freight tomorrow and see what kind of tools they have there. I really hate shopping there because the tools don't last but i hope i don't need to use them for another 100K...and i guess you can't really make cheap seal drivers (i usually just use a rubber mallet and a proper sized socket) but i don't have sockets this big.
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
and by brass drift do they mean brass hammer...or is this some sort of punch/driver?
Brass drift is a rod made out of brass. I got a kit with 3 different sizes from sears for Christmas several years back, they were not too expensive <$10. A small brass hammer works as well. Unless you want to have all these parts for yourself most of us should have all you need in regard to tools.
If my design will work then I should only need a piece ~1' long to tie into the supports. Just keep me posted, free or cheap is the key word as I really dont have any toy $ and wont for quite some time.
If my design will work then I should only need a piece ~1' long to tie into the supports. Just keep me posted, free or cheap is the key word as I really dont have any toy $ and wont for quite some time.
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
looks like the trailer parts are taken but i'm heading to my parents tonight to get an electric impact for the meet this weekend.
If all you need is 1ft or so of pipe i'll grab a few sections from my parents place. Might need to be cleaned a bit but it's free. Usually i can get free metal from next door but being buisness is hurting they are haling the junk off to the scrap yard to help fund their race car.
And it looks like the little lady will let me come fri night and camp out. I love camping with the family but the ease of just putting an inflatable mattress in the back of the cruiser makes setting up so much quicker!
With all this rain should i bring some tarps?
And if you bring those springs i'll definately play around with them.
I'm currently trying to trade/sell my triumph speed triple and one of the vehicles that i've been offered is a 62...so if i can't use them on one of two rigs...i'm sure someone will eventually need a few leafs!
I'm just trying to decide if a woody 62 with a rusted out tailgate is a deal breaker
If all you need is 1ft or so of pipe i'll grab a few sections from my parents place. Might need to be cleaned a bit but it's free. Usually i can get free metal from next door but being buisness is hurting they are haling the junk off to the scrap yard to help fund their race car.
And it looks like the little lady will let me come fri night and camp out. I love camping with the family but the ease of just putting an inflatable mattress in the back of the cruiser makes setting up so much quicker!
With all this rain should i bring some tarps?
And if you bring those springs i'll definately play around with them.
I'm currently trying to trade/sell my triumph speed triple and one of the vehicles that i've been offered is a 62...so if i can't use them on one of two rigs...i'm sure someone will eventually need a few leafs!
I'm just trying to decide if a woody 62 with a rusted out tailgate is a deal breaker
So when everyone tells me I need 90 to put in the dif does this mean 80w90 gear oil?
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
thats what i am planning on using in mine. I plan on picking up a gallon of it... i can't remember how much the diff takes...but if we can do two with one gallon we can go halfsies!
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
80w90 is right - I use the cheapest one I can find in my diffs, tranny and tcase (FJ55).
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
after driving through water....that stuff gets dropped as soon as i get home!
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
You should vent your breathers - all you need is some fuel hose, clamps, and filter. Easy easy!
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
sounds like a good idea! Where do i get said breather check valves to put on the tip of the hose (or could run breather hoses into the cab) I suppose PCV valves would work as it would allow it to blow out but no fluid can come back in. Would still need filters on the end though.
With the levels at hartwell dropping again i'm sure it's only a matter of time before i really have to get the cruiser deep in the water to use the ramp at my parents place.
With the levels at hartwell dropping again i'm sure it's only a matter of time before i really have to get the cruiser deep in the water to use the ramp at my parents place.
You need a filter to allow air in and out. PCV's will not let it it breath at all. You just mount the filter above the high water mark, a good rule of thumb is no higher than your neck is required.
Unless you drive with a snorkle on the motor and your head.
Jeremy
Unless you drive with a snorkle on the motor and your head.
Jeremy
you just replace the factory breather hoses with longer ones higher up in the engine compartment.
