Summer is Coming, Severe Duty Oil (2 Viewers)

[linuxgod]

I wish there was a way to get the oil temp from the OBD2 port. FWIW I watch the transmission temps when towing and aside from steep mountains they rarely get much about 200F (though I've seen as high as 230-240F in 2nd gear at 11,000'). Non-towing they all sit around 195F. There's a lot of good stock fluid cooling in the LC/LX, and I actually wonder if the oil temp doesn't get that high even under load.

If anyone happens to know a PID to monitor oil temp I'd be very interested. I assume it's possible since I believe the computer can alert you.

 

[bloc]

(though I've seen as high as 230-240F in 2nd gear at 11,000').

Can our transmissions not lock up the TC in 2nd? Otherwise I can’t think of a reason it’d be so high

 

[linuxgod]

I don't think they lock up below 4th, but I could be wrong. I have found that 4th gear by far produces the lowest temps

I'm pretty sure it's a combination of thin air, 6000# of trailer weight, and revving at 4500+ RPMs continuously

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

In the 6 speed, only 4th, 5th, and 6th allow for full lockup.

4th is direct, 1:1, so no gear engagements, just a strait shaft to the transfer case. That’s why is produce the least heat.

 

[NKP Garage]

I use Mobil1 European Formula 0w40 in the LX570 and in the LX470 before that. Also use it in our European cars (both turbo and non-turbo). It does great with high heat/stress conditions.

 

[bakolc80]

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf

0W20 Extended Performance High Mileage

Higher levels of zinc and phosphorus.

Yearly they run a rebate. Up to 4 5Qt jugs. Just make a run to Walmart

Page not found | ExxonMobil

 

[bloc]

The "seal conditioners" in high-mileage oils have always made me nervous, personally.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

All oils have seal conditioners, it’s just high mileage oils have more.

But... if it meets spec, for example the current API SN and SN Plus, the level of seal conditioners have to stay within the API allowable range. And that range is understood by the engine manufactures with allows the engine manufactures so state which requirements that engine needs.

Or in other words, there’s a lot of regulations that keeps everything safe and happy, so go nuts.

 

[TeCKis300]

I wish there was a way to get the oil temp from the OBD2 port. FWIW I watch the transmission temps when towing and aside from steep mountains they rarely get much about 200F (though I've seen as high as 230-240F in 2nd gear at 11,000'). Non-towing they all sit around 195F. There's a lot of good stock fluid cooling in the LC/LX, and I actually wonder if the oil temp doesn't get that high even under load.

If anyone happens to know a PID to monitor oil temp I'd be very interested. I assume it's possible since I believe the computer can alert you.

Not sure there's any PID for direct oil temp. Most OEMs use the strategy of only monitoring engine coolant temperature. Because oil temperature and engine coolant temperature will be highly correlated, it is often sufficient just to monitor and compensate for coolant temp. I don't expect the engine oil to overheat in any manner, but it most surely will be hotter on account of lots of more combustion and power being made, resulting in more heat and pressure on bearing and friction surfaces.

Under load, every and all fluids will be taxed. Including engine, tranny, differentials, etc. Towing would not be unlike track racing, which is where my experience comes from. High output for extended periods, things are going to get hot. Very hot. In racing, stepping up viscosity is common. I would say towing is even more taxing in ways. Extended engine output (no let-off for braking) and not necessarily a lot of speed to force air into the cooling system and various radiators.

 

[KOTN]

Hi all, I've just moved up north in Western Australia so the temperatures are a lot hotter than most places. (wet season min.15'C - max 45'C+ and dry season min.10'C - max 40'C as well as being humid)

I've read the owners manual but the conditions being what they are up here I'm guessing a change in oil brand-viscosity would be needed. I've got a 2017 Altitude and looking to do regular changes myself and would like to know what should I be buying for these much harsher conditions?

Thanks!

 

[linuxgod]

Update to my own post. The ended up buying OBD Fusion from the App Store and paying the extra $ for the Toyota add-on pack. Those extra PIDs can read all sorts of things like oil temp, both transmission temp sensors, etc.

 

[04UZJ100]

I am going to bump this thread and stir the pot......again. I have been monitoring some minor oil consumption on my 3UR over the course of a few oil changes. I have noticed about 1/2 quart consumption over the course of a 6-8k OCI at 98K miles. However, there are some nuances that I have noticed.

When I drove from Alaska to Illinois in January - total trip was nearly 4K miles in 8 days. There was zero oil consumption in ambient temperatures that ranged from -35F to 50F. Once back in Illinois, oil consumption returned when typical use went from 100% highway to nearly 100% local roads (5-45MPH) and short trips (<10 miles).

There are no visible leaks around the engine and there is no smoke on startup. I believe that this extremely light weight oil is “consumed” during startups or while the engine is reaching operating temperature.

For that reason, and because Toyota flat out indicates that 5W-30 is acceptable across the most typical operating ranges, I will be putting in 5W-30 M1 EP during my next oil change. I believe this will alleviate the consumption and minimize or eliminate the cold engine noises the 3UR is so susceptible of.

I, like many others, has had great success with 5W-30 EP in my 2UZ and I suspect nothing less from the 3UR. While I realize that visual appearance of the oil during a change is not indicative of its condition, the oil coming out of the 2UZ is not near as dark as that coming out of the 3UR.

We shall see.......

 

[bloc]

I am going to bump this thread and stir the pot......again. I have been monitoring some minor oil consumption on my 3UR over the course of a few oil changes. I have noticed about 1/2 quart consumption over the course of a 6-8k OCI at 98K miles. However, there are some nuances that I have noticed.

When I drove from Alaska to Illinois in January - total trip was nearly 4K miles in 8 days. There was zero oil consumption in ambient temperatures that ranged from -35F to 50F. Once back in Illinois, oil consumption returned when typical use went from 100% highway to nearly 100% local roads (5-45MPH) and short trips (<10 miles).

There are no visible leaks around the engine and there is no smoke on startup. I believe that this extremely light weight oil is “consumed” during startups or while the engine is reaching operating temperature.

For that reason, and because Toyota flat out indicates that 5W-30 is acceptable across the most typical operating ranges, I will be putting in 5W-30 M1 EP during my next oil change. I believe this will alleviate the consumption and minimize or eliminate the cold engine noises the 3UR is so susceptible of.

I, like many others, has had great success with 5W-30 EP in my 2UZ and I suspect nothing less from the 3UR. While I realize that visual appearance of the oil during a change is not indicative of its condition, the oil coming out of the 2UZ is not near as dark as that coming out of the 3UR.

We shall see.......

Please do UOA and post results if possible.

 

[32cls6speedmt]

I am going to bump this thread and stir the pot......again. I have been monitoring some minor oil consumption on my 3UR over the course of a few oil changes. I have noticed about 1/2 quart consumption over the course of a 6-8k OCI at 98K miles. However, there are some nuances that I have noticed.

When I drove from Alaska to Illinois in January - total trip was nearly 4K miles in 8 days. There was zero oil consumption in ambient temperatures that ranged from -35F to 50F. Once back in Illinois, oil consumption returned when typical use went from 100% highway to nearly 100% local roads (5-45MPH) and short trips (<10 miles).

There are no visible leaks around the engine and there is no smoke on startup. I believe that this extremely light weight oil is “consumed” during startups or while the engine is reaching operating temperature.

For that reason, and because Toyota flat out indicates that 5W-30 is acceptable across the most typical operating ranges, I will be putting in 5W-30 M1 EP during my next oil change. I believe this will alleviate the consumption and minimize or eliminate the cold engine noises the 3UR is so susceptible of.

I, like many others, has had great success with 5W-30 EP in my 2UZ and I suspect nothing less from the 3UR. While I realize that visual appearance of the oil during a change is not indicative of its condition, the oil coming out of the 2UZ is not near as dark as that coming out of the 3UR.

We shall see.......

Simple fix could be pvc

 

[04UZJ100]

Simple fix could be pvc

Did that 7k ago.

 

[linuxgod]

Did that 7k ago.

Did this start within the last 7k? In that case maybe you got a bad PCV valve. I'm guessing not since you mention "the last few oil changes" but figured it's worth suggesting. As an engineer I usually start looking at the last few changes made whenever something goes wrong to see if maybe we should undo any of them.

It's of course anecdotal but I have 101k on my 2013, I run 0W-20, I live in Chicago, and our driving is 90% city except for the summer trips where we tow the trailer, and I experience no oil consumption (unless fuel vapors are diluting the oil level perfectly).

Usually oil consumption gives you some indications. If you don't have any evidence of burning oil (i.e. no smoke from the tail pipe and if you check the tail pipe and see if it's clean ... no oily residue in the end) then I'd try to clean the engine block, skid plates, etc with some degreaser and see if perhaps you're got a drop from somewhere hard to see

Note I'm not a mechanic but I've owned a few jalopys over the years

 

[04UZJ100]

Did this start within the last 7k? In that case maybe you got a bad PCV valve. I'm guessing not since you mention "the last few oil changes" but figured it's worth suggesting. As an engineer I usually start looking at the last few changes made whenever something goes wrong to see if maybe we should undo any of them.

It's of course anecdotal but I have 101k on my 2013, I run 0W-20, I live in Chicago, and our driving is 90% city except for the summer trips where we tow the trailer, and I experience no oil consumption (unless fuel vapors are diluting the oil level perfectly).

Usually oil consumption gives you some indications. If you don't have any evidence of burning oil (i.e. no smoke from the tail pipe and if you check the tail pipe and see if it's clean ... no oily residue in the end) then I'd try to clean the engine block, skid plates, etc with some degreaser and see if perhaps you're got a drop from somewhere hard to see

Note I'm not a mechanic but I've owned a few jalopys over the years

Appreciate your input. I changed the PCV because it was original at 90k and read that it contributed to oil consumption. The valve freely moved inside when removed.

In my research - it appears some 5.7l owners on this site and those in Tundras/Sequoias report oil consumption of some sort as well. Not wide spread but not out of the complete ordinary either.

 

[linuxgod]

Appreciate your input. I changed the PCV because it was original at 90k and read that it contributed to oil consumption. The valve freely moved inside when removed.

In my research - it appears some 5.7l owners on this site and those in Tundras/Sequoias report oil consumption of some sort as well. Not wide spread but not out of the complete ordinary either.

If you don't have any evidence of oil consumption in the tail pipe, I'd still start with cleaning the engine, skid plates, etc thoroughly and then looking for a leak. The leak may not happen except when under pressure or when the crankshaft is slinging oil around, and if it's happening only at higher RPMs (i.e. under acceleration or on the highway) then you may not even notice much of a drip or oily residue on a slightly dirty vehicle.

I had a '90 Celica with a leaky rear main seal. Never dripped in the driveway, but it'd leak slightly when driving. Probably 1/4 quart every oil change... hardly enough to notice. Very unlike the '80 Celica I had which was leaking a quart every ~50 miles or so whenever I ran the engine over 2700 rpms (that turned out to be an oil pan with bolts so loose you could finger tighten them) or the '66 Mustang which had leaky valve guides and would put out a small puff of blue smoke on cold start.

Keep in mind the Tundra/Sequoia 5.7L is made in the US (Indiana, I think) whereas the LC 5.7L is made in Japan. (I say made because I can't recall if it's just assembled or fully fabricated). The design is virtually the same, but it's not actually the same engine.

 

[TeCKis300]

I am going to bump this thread and stir the pot......again. I have been monitoring some minor oil consumption on my 3UR over the course of a few oil changes. I have noticed about 1/2 quart consumption over the course of a 6-8k OCI at 98K miles. However, there are some nuances that I have noticed.

When I drove from Alaska to Illinois in January - total trip was nearly 4K miles in 8 days. There was zero oil consumption in ambient temperatures that ranged from -35F to 50F. Once back in Illinois, oil consumption returned when typical use went from 100% highway to nearly 100% local roads (5-45MPH) and short trips (<10 miles).

There are no visible leaks around the engine and there is no smoke on startup. I believe that this extremely light weight oil is “consumed” during startups or while the engine is reaching operating temperature.

For that reason, and because Toyota flat out indicates that 5W-30 is acceptable across the most typical operating ranges, I will be putting in 5W-30 M1 EP during my next oil change. I believe this will alleviate the consumption and minimize or eliminate the cold engine noises the 3UR is so susceptible of.

I, like many others, has had great success with 5W-30 EP in my 2UZ and I suspect nothing less from the 3UR. While I realize that visual appearance of the oil during a change is not indicative of its condition, the oil coming out of the 2UZ is not near as dark as that coming out of the 3UR.

We shall see.......

After owner a number of high performance sports cars, oil consumption is not a big of a deal to me. It's normal and almost expected within a threshold.

You hit the nail on the head with regards to how the vehicle is used. Local short trips are the toughest on oil consumption. Cold engines have looser clearances. Particularly the piston rings and oil scraper. Sounds like your consumption is not very high.

You may want to check the spark plug wells for oil. This is a common leak for higher mileage 5.7s.

 

[lawrence1]

You guys should check this guy's blog out when you have a few hours to burn on this topic. MOTOR OIL ENGINEERING TEST DATA

While the blog is not the most scientifical out there, the guy tests the load capacity for a substantial variety of oils and the results are quite enlightening. On that note, i've been using Renewable Lubricants for the past 3 years or so in my IS-F and LX 570 and i think it's great oil. All anecdotal evidence but I noticed a little less noise in both engines (both UR series engines, although very different otherwise). No oil consumption on either car, granted that i didn't have any before either. Based on oil analyses i've read on for the IS-F and GS-F with this oil, it seems to handle fuel dilution exceptionally well, while providing outstanding wear protection. It is expensive though and has to be mail ordered, which is the downside.

I run factory recommended oil weights in both cars (i.e. 0w20 in the LX, 5w30 in the IS-F). No reason to run thicker oil in a modern water cooled engine designed for thinner tolerances. It'll only cause the engine to run hotter from greater fluid drag, which means losing power to pumping losses. No measurable improvement in load capacity or durability (in many cases it actually exhibits lower load capacity), as evidenced by the testing done and detailed in the blog above.