Summer is Coming, Severe Duty Oil (1 Viewer)

[Moby]

Update to my own post. The ended up buying OBD Fusion from the App Store and paying the extra $ for the Toyota add-on pack. Those extra PIDs can read all sorts of things like oil temp, both transmission temp sensors, etc.
View attachment 2125575

This is awesome! Will buy this shortly, exactly what I was looking for.

FWIW - I love having oil temp. My '18 VW R and previous '99.5 Audi A4 both had oil temp gauges. On the 2FE in my FJ-62 I put a probe in the sump and displayed it in the UX on my CarPC. I use it both for warm up and to monitor top end temp. In both cases coolant gauges do not appear to correlate well with oil temp. For cold start the coolant temp comes up quick, but oil is cold for much longer. I don't run high engine load until oil temp comes up as well. At the high end it is easy to see oil temp creep up without noticeable change in coolant temp. I suspect that this has a lot to do with the coolant gauge calibration. I suspect that they have a "happy spot" that is dead center. That is, small changes in coolant temp within a given range do not cause changes in the gauge reading. Whereas I consider the difference in oil temp between say 215 and 230 to be interesting (note that I didn't say necessarily significant, just interesting to me).

 

[linuxgod]

This is awesome! Will buy this shortly, exactly what I was looking for.

FWIW - I love having oil temp. My '18 VW R and previous '99.5 Audi A4 both had oil temp gauges. On the 2FE in my FJ-62 I put a probe in the sump and displayed it in the UX on my CarPC. I use it both for warm up and to monitor top end temp. In both cases coolant gauges do not appear to correlate well with oil temp. For cold start the coolant temp comes up quick, but oil is cold for much longer. I don't run high engine load until oil temp comes up as well. At the high end it is easy to see oil temp creep up without noticeable change in coolant temp. I suspect that this has a lot to do with the coolant gauge calibration. I suspect that they have a "happy spot" that is dead center. That is, small changes in coolant temp within a given range do not cause changes in the gauge reading. Whereas I consider the difference in oil temp between say 215 and 230 to be interesting (note that I didn't say necessarily significant, just interesting to me).

I feel the same way about small changes. It's not that they are a problem, but it's interesting and helps me understand what is going on. For instance, normally when I tow on the highway in the flatlands of Illinois my coolant, oil, and both AT temps run at 196F (locked up in 4th gear on the highway). But if I get out west to say Colorado or Utah, even on flat stretches my A/T temps in particular may run a bit hotter. Sometimes 200-202F, with coolant temps at 198-200F. I assume this is from thinner air, and it's interesting to me to see the difference, even if it's largely irrelevant in terms of wear.

As a side note, I really wish I knew what the yellow/red (warning/danger) zones were on some of these values. I flagged 230F as my warning level, but I don't really know if that's "correct". I know the A/T temp light comes on at 304F but I have to imagine running at 290F for hours on end would be *really* hard on the transmission, even if it's not triggering the warning light.

 

[linuxgod]

You guys should check this guy's blog out when you have a few hours to burn on this topic. MOTOR OIL ENGINEERING TEST DATA

While the blog is not the most scientifical out there, the guy tests the load capacity for a substantial variety of oils and the results are quite enlightening. On that note, i've been using Renewable Lubricants for the past 3 years or so in my IS-F and LX 570 and i think it's great oil. All anecdotal evidence but I noticed a little less noise in both engines (both UR series engines, although very different otherwise). No oil consumption on either car, granted that i didn't have any before either. Based on oil analyses i've read on for the IS-F and GS-F with this oil, it seems to handle fuel dilution exceptionally well, while providing outstanding wear protection. It is expensive though and has to be mail ordered, which is the downside.

I run factory recommended oil weights in both cars (i.e. 0w20 in the LX, 5w30 in the IS-F). No reason to run thicker oil in a modern water cooled engine designed for thinner tolerances. It'll only cause the engine to run hotter from greater fluid drag, which means losing power to pumping losses. No measurable improvement in load capacity or durability (in many cases it actually exhibits lower load capacity), as evidenced by the testing done and detailed in the blog above.

I found that blog a while back. It's hard to read but this is what caught my eye. So if you believe his blog, use Quaker State Ultimate Durability instead of Toyota GMO...

28. Eight 0W20 Oils Tested and Compared
...
1. 0W20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN, synthetic (gold bottle) = 124,393 psi
Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F

2. 0W20 Toyota Motor Oil, API SN, synthetic = 101,460 psi
Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 255*F

3. 0W20 Mobil 1 Extended Performance, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic = 100,229 psi
Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 265*F

4. 0W20 Pennzoil Platinum, Pure Plus Technology, made from Natural Gas, API SN, synthetic
(silver bottle with blue vertical stripe on the label) = 92,504 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 275*F

5. 0W20 Castrol Edge, Fluid Titanium Technology, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic
(black bottle) = 90,745 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F

6. 0W20 Valvoline SynPower, API SN, synthetic = 89,556 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F

7. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advance Fuel Economy, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic = 79,612 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F

8. 0W20 Kendall GT-1, with liquid Titanium, API SN, synthetic = 71,385 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 260*F

 

[TeCKis300]

You guys should check this guy's blog out when you have a few hours to burn on this topic. MOTOR OIL ENGINEERING TEST DATA

While the blog is not the most scientifical out there, the guy tests the load capacity for a substantial variety of oils and the results are quite enlightening. On that note, i've been using Renewable Lubricants for the past 3 years or so in my IS-F and LX 570 and i think it's great oil. All anecdotal evidence but I noticed a little less noise in both engines (both UR series engines, although very different otherwise). No oil consumption on either car, granted that i didn't have any before either. Based on oil analyses i've read on for the IS-F and GS-F with this oil, it seems to handle fuel dilution exceptionally well, while providing outstanding wear protection. It is expensive though and has to be mail ordered, which is the downside.

I run factory recommended oil weights in both cars (i.e. 0w20 in the LX, 5w30 in the IS-F). No reason to run thicker oil in a modern water cooled engine designed for thinner tolerances. It'll only cause the engine to run hotter from greater fluid drag, which means losing power to pumping losses. No measurable improvement in load capacity or durability (in many cases it actually exhibits lower load capacity), as evidenced by the testing done and detailed in the blog above.

GREAT read with tons of backing commentary and data. Particularly the data. Thank you for the link.

He builds a great case for high quality formulations with data points to back up and differentiate products on the market. If there's anything I'm taking away from this, is that there's data to identify standout product brands and lines on the market with quality formulations that truly deliver results. So one can delve deeper than just branding and marketing. The trick is finding that standout product relative to cost. As there's some exotic product performances, with costs to match. Toyota oil formulations consistently score high.

That said, the blog author in making his simplified case which I fully agree with, also contradicts himself often. His major positions is that 0w30 or 5w30 viscosity, in a quality formulation is optimal, with no need to go up in viscosity for added protection. That I agree with.

At the same time, in making the case to not go upwards from 5w30 in viscosity because 'viscosity doesn't matter', consistently criticizes manufacturers for going downward in viscosity for newer modern engines. Particularly where he reviews 0w16 oil or even 0w20. He lambasts it as "dangerously thin", "pressure...lower than ideal", "bleeding off too quickly out of bearing clearances", and ultimately - "Toyota got it wrong……….again, which is no surprise. " Never mind that Toyota engines are arguably some of the most reliable on the market.

My takeaway is still that for a given engine, prevailing operating temperatures matter. Because it impacts oil viscosity. That ultimately dictate protective oil pressures for a given oil pump design. In this case, I agree with him in that 0w30 has standout cold start protection with the right viscosity to maintain oil pressures on heavier (hotter) loaded engines.

Now to go chase and find a good formulation of 0w20 or 0w30 with high thermal limits (that is reasonably sourced and priced).

Thanks for sharing your data. That is excellent information for everyone to see, who uses that ridiculously thin 0W16 motor oil. NOTE: The ONLY reason Toyota calls for such overly thin oil, is their lame attempt to microscopically increase fuel mileage. But, they are making a mistake for doing that, because as you found out, which was already widely known, super thin oils do NOT improve fuel mileage at all, when put to the test in the real world. So, there is no good reason to use such dangerously thin motor oil.

It is the same thing with using overly thin 0W20 or 5W20 motor oils that are called for by some Auto Makers. Because those oils also do NOT increase fuel mileage in the real world. And the fact is, 0W30 or 5W30 are the optimum viscosity for most water-cooled engines. I do NOT recommend using any motor oil thinner than 0W30 or 5W30, if you care about protecting your engine. Keep in mind that 0W30 or 5W30 are BOTH rated as 30wt viscosity motor oils at normal hot operating temperature where an engine spends 99% of its life. 0W30 and 5W30 only vary in their cold rated viscosity, where 0W30 is a bit thinner than 5W30 when cold.

Just to be clear, the old rule of thumb for “HOT” oil pressure is: “Your engine should make at least 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm”. But, that is intended as a target for High Performance and Racing Engines.

Normal daily driver vehicles don’t need to adhere to that precisely. For them, the old rule of thumb is just an approximate general reference guideline, but not a hard requirement. If normal daily driver vehicles produce “anywhere near” the rule of thumb psi values, they should be fine.

But, your oil pressure data with the original super thin 0W16 Toyota motor oil is definitely “LOWER THAN IDEAL” for best engine protection, and is a cause for concern. Because that indicates the super thin 0W16 oil is bleeding off too quickly out of the bearing clearances throughout the engine, especially through the rod and main bearings. And with that condition, if the engine is subjected to severe loading, it could be at much higher risk of damage or outright failure. So, Toyota obviously doesn’t care about any of that, and are satisfied the oil only being good enough to barely get by in most cases. That way you will likely need another vehicle sooner rather than later. Shameful…

Your new higher oil pressure numbers with the 0W30 are MUCH BETTER, with an impressive average psi improvement across the rpm range of 31%, just from using the correct viscosity motor oil. And that shows that the ideal multi-viscosity 30wt motor oil is bleeding off through the engine’s bearing clearances, especially through the rod and main bearings, at perfectly desirable rate. That is proof that the engine SHOULD really be using a 30wt multi-viscosity motor oil, rather than that insanely thin 0W16 motor oil.

Toyota got it wrong……….again, which is no surprise. I have NEVER been impressed with Toyota Engineering. Because they do so many things wrong, or at least not as good as they should be done. Buyer beware!

That 0W16 Toyota motor oil also did NOT perform well in my Motor Oil Engineering Wear Protection Capability Test. It could only muster 84,295 psi, which ranked it a miserable 132nd out of 239 oils tested so far. It is highly unlikely that anyone would intentionally choose such a poor performing motor oil to use in their own engine.

BOTTOM LINE: Because of poor oil pressure, and poor wear protection capability with Toyota 0W16 motor oil, I do NOT recommend that anyone use that oil. Instead, I recommend that people select a Highly Ranked 0W30 or 5W30 from my Wear Protection Ranking List, and use that. Then their engine will be FAR BETTER protected than with that extremely thin and inadequate 0W16 factory motor oil.

 

[bloc]

That’s what makes me laugh. The idea that toyota is doing anything that compromises the durability of their power trains. They have been and still are the most reliable, period. You don’t get that crown by filling with oils that can’t protect an engine during intended use.

 

[lawrence1]

That’s what makes me laugh. The idea that toyota is doing anything that compromises the durability of their power trains. They have been and still are the most reliable, period. You don’t get that crown by filling with oils that can’t protect an engine during intended use.

I don't disagree, which is why i stick with Toyota recommended oil weights, specs and genuine oil filters. No need to use thicker oil in an engine that wasn't designed for it.

 

[lawrence1]

I found that blog a while back. It's hard to read but this is what caught my eye. So if you believe his blog, use Quaker State Ultimate Durability instead of Toyota GMO...

28. Eight 0W20 Oils Tested and Compared
...
1. 0W20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN, synthetic (gold bottle) = 124,393 psi
Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F

2. 0W20 Toyota Motor Oil, API SN, synthetic = 101,460 psi
Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 255*F

3. 0W20 Mobil 1 Extended Performance, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic = 100,229 psi
Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 265*F

4. 0W20 Pennzoil Platinum, Pure Plus Technology, made from Natural Gas, API SN, synthetic
(silver bottle with blue vertical stripe on the label) = 92,504 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 275*F

5. 0W20 Castrol Edge, Fluid Titanium Technology, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic
(black bottle) = 90,745 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F

6. 0W20 Valvoline SynPower, API SN, synthetic = 89,556 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F

7. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advance Fuel Economy, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic = 79,612 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F

8. 0W20 Kendall GT-1, with liquid Titanium, API SN, synthetic = 71,385 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 260*F

i actually just bought some QSUD to try out on the next oil change. Not so much because i believe him or not, since it's well known that QSUD is a very good oil at a price point that is hard to beat. The reason i'd like to try it is because it's easier to source locally. RLI is difficult to get and I always have to plan around having it shipped, which takes more than a week on average.

 

[04UZJ100]

That’s what makes me laugh. The idea that toyota is doing anything that compromises the durability of their power trains. They have been and still are the most reliable, period. You don’t get that crown by filling with oils that can’t protect an engine during intended use.

Disagree. There are powers that be impacting decisions that impact durability and reliability. Here are a few things I’ve noticed.

- Lack of EGR system on 2UZ would not be acceptable today.

- Secondary air injection system on newer models. System can leave you stranded in middle of nowhere in limp mode under certain failure scenarios.

- “Lifetime” fluid advertisement on critical drivetrain lubricants (ATF)

- Use of an 8 speed transmission that proved to be uncharacteristically unreliable during initial rollout. Yet to be proven long term and initial reports of vehicles requiring replacement indicate that it was not subjected to the same level of testing (100k+ km) that the 6 speed underwent.

Saying they don’t compromise anything is an overstatement.

 

[bloc]

Disagree. There are powers that be impacting decisions that impact durability and reliability. Here are a few things I’ve noticed.

- Lack of EGR system on 2UZ would not be acceptable today.

- Secondary air injection system on newer models. System can leave you stranded in middle of nowhere in limp mode under certain failure scenarios.

- “Lifetime” fluid advertisement on critical drivetrain lubricants (ATF)

- Use of an 8 speed transmission that proved to be uncharacteristically unreliable during initial rollout. Yet to be proven long term and initial reports of vehicles requiring replacement indicate that it was not subjected to the same level of testing (100k+ km) that the 6 speed underwent.

Saying they don’t compromise anything is an overstatement.

I’ll grant you that my use of “powertrains” was probably too broad. With regard to their engines, my point stands. EGR typically has more long-term reliability problems because of the temperatures involved, and introduces soot into the intake manifold, which is actually more of an issue with higher mileage engines producing said soot as well as increased oil vapors via the PCV system.

We could fault toyota for designing an air injection system malfunction to disable the vehicle, but this likely has as much to do with regulations as anything. Kinda like my fire apparatus STOPPING THE ENGINE on the way to a fire or whatever because we run it out of DEF or certain emissions sensors fail. This is a stupid rule that was imposed on the engine designers.. absolutely not by their choice, or that of the customers.

Transmissions shouldn’t be “lifetime fill”. Period. On that you are right. The 6spd auto is a great transmission, but I’d say it is too early to call the 8spd a downgrade. People feel justified to make a big deal about their expensive newer design stuff not being the best thing ever.

Either way.. there are quite a few 5.7s running around hauling all manner of loads and being abused daily on 0w-20 and we aren’t hearing about engine failures related to lubrication. It’s been a while since I went over to BITOG but when I first got my cruiser the UOAs posted with M1 or TGMO 0-20 looked great. This is actual data supporting it being a very good choice for our engines.

 

[linuxgod]

i actually just bought some QSUD to try out on the next oil change. Not so much because i believe him or not, since it's well known that QSUD is a very good oil at a price point that is hard to beat. The reason i'd like to try it is because it's easier to source locally. RLI is difficult to get and I always have to plan around having it shipped, which takes more than a week on average.

Ive been running QSUD 0w-20 for a while. Guess I won’t really know if it’s an issue until the engine craps out, which at 12-13k miles per year might be 30 or 40 years from now that said I’ve had a UOA done by Blackstone after 6500+ miles of largely highway towing (75 mph with a 6000# trailer from Chicago through Colorado) and the remainder city driving, and it looked very good.

 

[Moby]

@TeCKis300 where did you find this chart? I was considering a switch to 0w-30 Amsoil Signature when I dump my break in oil (I'm at 6 months/2.7k miles, and it is much hotter in Bend where we've been at our cabin weathering the pandemic since March - gotta love the work from home, and yes, I consider myself very lucky to have this option). But this chart, despite looking exactly like what my FJ-62's FSM had, is nowhere in my owner's manual for the 200). It only lists 0W-20 but says in some cases higher viscosity may be better. No other guidance such as this chart.

From the manual:

"An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions"

Efficiency pressures has been driving the average viscosity down in modern cars. For severe duty use, I'm prioritizing protection and will run 0W-30.

 

[afgman786]

Update to my own post. The ended up buying OBD Fusion from the App Store and paying the extra $ for the Toyota add-on pack. Those extra PIDs can read all sorts of things like oil temp, both transmission temp sensors, etc.
View attachment 2125575

Which PID did you use for Engine Oil Temp? I recently got OBD Fusion app and purchased the 2008 Toyota add on.

 

[Moby]

Similar question. I got this as well but am still working out the oil temp. At one point an hour into a highway with temps in the high 80s it was continually reading 149F. That's not right or there is a different issue.

Also has anyone found oil pressure? I haven't looked at the wiring diagram but I'm guessing the sender for the dash gauge is not run through the ECU and OBDII unless I'm missing something. Really want to see actual oil pressure hot and cold.

 

[TeCKis300]

@TeCKis300 where did you find this chart? I was considering a switch to 0w-30 Amsoil Signature when I dump my break in oil (I'm at 6 months/2.7k miles, and it is much hotter in Bend where we've been at our cabin weathering the pandemic since March - gotta love the work from home, and yes, I consider myself very lucky to have this option). But this chart, despite looking exactly like what my FJ-62's FSM had, is nowhere in my owner's manual for the 200). It only lists 0W-20 but says in some cases higher viscosity may be better. No other guidance such as this chart.

Sorry missed this. I don't recall where I sleuthed it from.

 

[04UZJ100]

I put 5W30 in 1,000 miles ago. Noticed less idle noise and less cabin noise on low speed acceleration around town.

 

[linuxgod]

Which PID did you use for Engine Oil Temp? I recently got OBD Fusion app and purchased the 2008 Toyota add on.

"Toyota, Lexus, Scion" Enhanced PIDs, under "Engine and Electronic Controlled Transmission", select "Engine Oil Temperature". At least that's what is is on my 2013.

 

[linuxgod]

Similar question. I got this as well but am still working out the oil temp. At one point an hour into a highway with temps in the high 80s it was continually reading 149F. That's not right or there is a different issue.

Also has anyone found oil pressure? I haven't looked at the wiring diagram but I'm guessing the sender for the dash gauge is not run through the ECU and OBDII unless I'm missing something. Really want to see actual oil pressure hot and cold.

I don't think oil pressure is supported in the PIDs. I was talking to @reddog90 yesterday in fact and he saw 3 A/T temp pids and a couple for oil pressure in the Enhanced PIDs pack, but once he scanned his truck with OBD Fusion to actually use the PIDs only two A/T pids show up and no oil pressure. So I suspect they might be supported on some Toyota/Scion/Lexus vehicles but not ours.

For oil temp, if you drive in 4th gear for a bit once warmed up I've found the oil temp, coolant temp, and both A/T temps will sit around 195F, give or take a couple degrees - at least when I'm towing on the highway. 149F seems low since the thermostat shouldn't open until ~180F. did you use the OBD Fusion built-in value or did you create your own? If you did the latter you might need to add +32 degrees to get the right value.

 

[linuxgod]

For posterity I'll share, this came from a PM discussion yesterday about the 2013 model, but since I looked it up in the FSM I thought I'd include it here (though it's slightly OT):

I used -40 to 320F for all the oil temps, though apparently the sensor range at least on the transmission is -40F to 419F according to the FSM. Using a lower value doesn't really hurt you, it just changes the range displayed (and limits the max value) - which can be helpful if you're using analog-style gauges in OBD Fusion). If you set it to -40F to 250F and the temp hits 260F I believe it will just continue to read 250F.

The A/T system will apparently trigger the "A/T Temp" light if the "No 2 ATF Temperature Sensor" detects an ATF temp of 150C/302F. It will go off below 275F. I assume "No. 2 Sensor" as the FSM describes it is probably the "A/T Oil Temp 2" (which is somewhere in or after the torque converter). The trigger at 302F is why I chose 320F as my max value... it wasn't until right now that I saw 419F in the FSM

Side note: If the ATF temp >266F, the TC will actually lock-up in 3rd gear as well, not just gears 4-6. I also believe the vehicle will downshift you to 3rd (there's a "shift point too high" symptom). Recover is below 230F. I've never experienced it, just read it in the FSM - highest I've ever seen the TC was about 255F, which I saw going over one mountain pass this month. AT pan reached 238F for a short while.

From the FSM. Highlights in red are mine

DESCRIPTION
The Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) temperature sensor is on the transmission, just in front of the oil cooler inlet pipeline.

If the ECM detects an abnormally high ATF temperature near this sensor, it illuminates the warning light.

HINT:

• The temperature of ATF easily rises when towing, climbing hills, in traffic, etc.
• If the ATF temperature sensor becomes short-circuited, the signal that indicates that the ATF temperature is 150°C (302°F) or higher is input into the ECM.

Vehicle conditions when the sensor is normal and when the sensor is short-circuited are indicated in the table below.

NO. 2 ATF TEMPERATURE SENSOR STATE	DETECTION CONDITION	SYMPTOM	RECOVERY CONDITION
Sensor is normal	ATF temperature higher than 150°C (302°F)	ATF temperature warning light remains on	ATF temperature below 135°C (275°F)*1
ATF temperature higher than 130°C (266°F)	Shift point too high	ATF temperature below 110°C (230°F)
When conditions (a) and (b) are satisfied. (a) ATF temperature higher than 130°C (266°F) (b) Engine coolant temperature higher than 95°C (203°F)	Lock-up at 3rd gear*2	ATF temperature below 110°C (230°F)*1 and engine coolant temperature higher than 95°C (203°F)
Sensor is short-circuited	Any conditions	ATF temperature warning light blinks or message is displayed in combination meter Shift point too high	Symptoms still occur
Engine coolant temperature higher than 95°C (203°F)	Lock-up at 3rd gear*2	Symptoms still occur

HINT:

*1: When the ATF is normal, it decreases to below 135°C (275°F) within 5 minutes with the shift lever in P or N in an idling state.

*2: When the ATF temperature is normal, transmission lock-up occurs in 5th or 6th gear with the shift lever in D or with the S6 range selected, in 5th gear with the S5 range selected, and in 4th gear with the S4 range selected.

DTC CODE	DTC DETECTION CONDITION	TROUBLE AREA
P2742	The No. 2 ATF temperature sensor resistance is below 25 Ω (0.046 V) for 0.5 seconds or more (1-trip detection logic).	Short in No. 2 ATF temperature sensor circuit No. 1 transmission wire (No. 2 ATF temperature sensor) ECM
P2743	No. 2 ATF temperature sensor resistance is more than 156 kΩ for 0.5 seconds or more and either of the following conditions is met (1-trip detection logic):	Open in No. 2 ATF temperature sensor circuit No. 1 transmission wire (No. 2 ATF temperature sensor) ECM
Condition (A) 15 minutes or more have elapsed after the engine start when engine coolant temperature or intake air temperature is -29.375°C (-20.875°F) or less.
Condition (B) 10 seconds or more have elapsed after the engine start when engine coolant temperature and intake air temperature are more than -29.375°C (- 20.875°F).

MONITOR DESCRIPTION
The ATF temperature sensor converts the ATF temperature into an electrical resistance value. Based on the resistance, the ECM determines the ATF temperature, and the ECM detects an open or short in the ATF temperature circuit. If the resistance value of the ATF temperature is below 25 Ω*1 or higher than 156 kΩ*2, the ECM interprets this as a fault in the ATF sensor or wiring. The ECM stores a DTC, and the ATF temperature warning light blinks or a message is displayed in the combination meter.

HINT:

• *1: 150°C (302°F) or higher is indicated regardless of the actual ATF temperature.
• *2: -40°C (-40°F) is indicated regardless of the actual ATF temperature.
• The ATF temperature can be checked on the Techstream display.

WIRING DIAGRAM
Refer to DTC P0711 .

INSPECTION PROCEDURE
NOTICE:

Perform the universal trip to clear permanent DTCs .

1. DATA LIST

HINT:

Using the Techstream to read the Data List allows the values or states of switches, sensors, actuators and other items to be read without removing any parts. This non-intrusive inspection can be very useful because intermittent conditions or signals may be discovered before parts or wiring is disturbed. Reading the Data List information early in troubleshooting is one way to save diagnostic time.

NOTICE:

In the table below, the values listed under "Normal Condition" are reference values. Do not depend solely on these reference values when deciding whether a part is faulty or not.

(a) Warm up the engine.

(b) Turn the engine switch off.

(c) Connect the Techstream to the DLC3.

(d) Turn the engine switch on (IG).

(e) Turn the Techstream on.

(f) Enter the following menus: Powertrain / Engine and ECT / Data List.

(g) According to the display on the Techstream, read the Data List.

Engine and ECT

TESTER DISPLAY	MEASUREMENT ITEM/RANGE	NORMAL CONDITION	DIAGNOSTIC NOTE
A/T Oil Temperature 2	No. 2 ATF temperature sensor value/ Min.: -40°C (-40°F) Max.: 215°C (419°F)	After stall test: Approximately 80°C (176°F) With engine cold: Equal to ambient temperature	If the value is -40°C (-40°F) or 215°C (419°F), the No. 2 ATF temperature sensor circuit is open or shorted.

HINT:

• When DTC P2742 is stored and the Techstream output is 150°C (302°F) or higher, there is a short circuit.
• When DTC P2743 is stored and the Techstream output is -40°C (-40°F), there is an open circuit.
  Check the temperature displayed on the Techstream in order to check if a malfunction exists.

TEMPERATURE DISPLAYED	MALFUNCTION
-40°C (-40°F)	Open circuit
150°C (302°F) or higher	Short circuit

 

[bloc]

Just a note.. from my understanding for our cam phasing to work the ECU needs to know oil pressure, so it is probably reported somehow.. just don't know if you can then get the data back out via OBD port.

 

[afgman786]

"Toyota, Lexus, Scion" Enhanced PIDs, under "Engine and Electronic Controlled Transmission", select "Engine Oil Temperature". At least that's what is is on my 2013.

I'll have to check again when I'm connected to the 200. Just checked it now on my phone not connected to the car and it shows, along with option for oil pressure. But don't remember seeing either of those options yesterday on the tablet when I was setting it up.
Appreciate the response back!