Nope. North Carolina, little place called Waxhaw. I get around.NC - New Caledonia, not North Carolina, right?
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Nope. North Carolina, little place called Waxhaw. I get around.NC - New Caledonia, not North Carolina, right?
Gotta agree. I have attempted to rebuild many, many carbs (2 cycle, 4 cycle, ford, Toyota F and 2F compatible, VW PICT, etc) and I think failed at each one in some way or another. And I have built a 40 from the ground up and succeeded at plenty of mods and maintenance. I honestly believe that carbs just hate some of us.That's a bit harsh ^
Simple as they are, there's a lot of stuff that can be wrong with these early soft-body carbs, including PO FUBAR'd stuff. The beauty of having a pro do it is they've got a wall of cores to pilfer missing or broken parts, as well as fixing warped Air Horns, etc and the experience of tweaking these old carbs to run better on modern crap gasoline.
I am running one on a Ford F150 farm truck right now. Works gang busters. When Trollhole was selling replacments they were the early models of what are todays Amazon / Ebay carbs. But he provided the needed linkages.I never said the China carbs might not have issues but, I have bought 2 and had good results with both. I figured since a carb kit is about $50......i did not have much to lose on a complete carb for $75.
I took the chance and it worked.....results may very.
Did you try @65swb45? I acquired a rebuilt carb for our 1970 from Mark and it is a work of art.
Thanks for the info. I do have Oem fuel pumpI'm working on a system for your need, as I want to make use of an F-manifold. Basically, a simple air cleaner element assembly, so you can use the F-manifold with a 2F-type-Aisan-style carb. You will need the insulator spacer for the F-manifold, and a means of hooking up the throttle cable to a throttle lever - right now Specter Off-Road has a '73 'bellcrank' (part 042-66B-U) which is probably the easiest route I know. I hope you have an OEM fuel pump, as electric pumps are a bit of an uncertainty.
Carb swaps for F or 2F is generally not recommended, and is probably a downgrade. Toyota used a vacuum controls on the secondary that keeps the upper throttle range in harmony with the engine.
My most current carb rebuild seems a bit of a failure, so I'm running a new OEM non-USA. I'm afraid that too much of my carb has been oxidized, internally, and it tends to lean-out when the traffic signal goes green, plus it gets less fuel range/economy. Maybe it needs a good carb dip? Or maybe a week on the bench with electrolysis and ultrasonic treatment?Gotta agree. I have attempted to rebuild many, many carbs (2 cycle, 4 cycle, ford, Toyota F and 2F compatible, VW PICT, etc) and I think failed at each one in some way or another. And I have built a 40 from the ground up and succeeded at plenty of mods and maintenance. I honestly believe that carbs just hate some of us.