Sturdy Plastic Key Fob

[apdxyk]

Here is one of mine below. I also think I have a better use for $340 I'd have to pay for all 4 keys between our 2 LXes in my household.
The titanium one is great, but it's a Prada of keys. I need something more affordable at this point.

One clear plastic shim was enough to make it snug and tight. They provide 3 shims, the T8 wrench, 4 screws and the shells

 

[97 AZ LC]

Also I got these cut form Home Depot/Lowes for free from the original. Just swapped over the RF and we are good to go.

Did you just say that Home Depot and Lowes do laser cut keys for free? Tell us more about that. My Home Depot and Lowes don't even do laser cut keys, and if they did I'm sure they would charge me.

 

[Davio6]

Haha. "Nut Case". I like it.

The feel is one of the big draws for my key, I think. I cringe at the thought of using one of the plastic OEM style keys now!



That's the standard plastic key design. The back half screws into place, but the front half has the metal key molded into the plastic base.

Give it a couple healthy cranks holding it like a normal key (not babying the base of it) and see if you can spot the cracks beginning at the base. I bet they'll show up within a few dozen cranks. I bought a few Amazon keys when I bought my 100 a few years back. One cracked on the first crank. The very first crank. That was a sad day. I had to pay to have that damn thing cut during a work day, too, haha.

Not to say I hope it fails on you, of course. The plastic seems to vary like crazy so there's a always a chance you'll end up with a harder plastic than average. Even then, it's a matter of time. It will crack. When it does, you know where to find me.

I just ordered your kit. I noticed a certain flex in my key. Some other car makes use finger holds that surround the key when it is in the ignition, to avoid stress on the key. Your key design internalizes those reinforcements. Hopefully I won't use the newly found power to break my ignition switch.
Thanks,
Dave

 

[tlebkcalb]

Does all LC should have a FOB ? I currently only have one key and it’s a single unit without buttons or electronic anything. 2001 here.
Tks

 

[BnvS]

Did you just say that Home Depot and Lowes do laser cut keys for free? Tell us more about that. My Home Depot and Lowes don't even do laser cut keys, and if they did I'm sure they would charge me.

Woh wow...Hold on there buddy...lol I mean normal Toyota keys. Not the Lexus ones. for those I dont know where to go. Sorry, I should have clarified this.

 

[BnvS]

Here is one of mine below. I also think I have a better use for $340 I'd have to pay for all 4 keys between our 2 LXes in my household.
The titanium one is great, but it's a Prada of keys. I need something more affordable at this point.

One clear plastic shim was enough to make it snug and tight. They provide 3 shims, the T8 wrench, 4 screws and the shells

Hey bud...how much did you get this key for? and can you give us a link?

 

[TXLX007]

can you give us a link?

https://www.amazon.com/STAUBER-Best...BJ23Y/ref=cm_sw_em_r_dp_dz_U_DAu0BbBMGHXY4_tt

http://a.co/d/c9xUVSc

and this if you have $ to spend... YotaMD.com - Products - Titanium Key Fob Shell - Toyota and Lexus

great conversation piece...

 

[fblainen11]

Hey all,
I purchased a key (just the metal and plastic part, not the insert that has the fob in it) on Amazon for about $7. It worked fine....for about 6 months then the metal part of the key snapped off from the plastic.
My question is, other than a factory Toyota key, is there anyone that people recommend that have held up for a long time? Again, I don't need the insert, just the shell and the key.

Thanks!

 

[Davio6]

Google "yotamd". He makes a pricey titanium reinforced key shell. There are other plastic shells, but they might not be anybetter than your old one.
Good luck,
Dave

 

[TXLX100]

Does all LC should have a FOB ? I currently only have one key and it’s a single unit without buttons or electronic anything. 2001 here.
Tks

It probably came new with 2 remote and one non-remote key. You have a non-remote key. If it's a master, you can easily have a remote key made. If it's a non-master might be a little tougher depending upon year model

 

[fblainen11]

Yikes! ~$80 for a key....I can get 7 years worth of keys at a break rate of 6 months.
I'll probably just try another one from Amazon.

 

[sleepycruiser]

AJT makes them as well.

https://www.ajtdesign-llc.com/

 

[suprarx7nut]

Here is one of mine below. I also think I have a better use for $340 I'd have to pay for all 4 keys between our 2 LXes in my household.
The titanium one is great, but it's a Prada of keys. I need something more affordable at this point.

View attachment 1817130

View attachment 1817131

One clear plastic shim was enough to make it snug and tight. They provide 3 shims, the T8 wrench, 4 screws and the shells

I was able to finally see one of these in person without having to buy one for "market research". The guy at HIH was buying one of mine and couldn't find the wrench for his Stauber key but was sick of it so just told me to rip the key out. It's a little more stout than the OEM key, but not by much. The key wiggled like crazy. My keys can have some wiggle, but nothing like that Stauber. That would drive me nuts. I'm sure you can shim it enough to hold tight, but it was not good. That style case also only works on the "T" and "U" style keys. The "I" styles which comprise about 10% of the key population out there aren't compatible. I think there's a question on the amazon listing about that and the seller just says it's incompatible.

I know it's cheap, but it's huge and the molding isn't quite done correctly. There's visible sink on the front and back. Just poor designing work for an injection molded part. But hey, it is cheap and it will probably last longer than OEM so I have to give 'em that.

Hey all,
I purchased a key (just the metal and plastic part, not the insert that has the fob in it) on Amazon for about $7. It worked fine....for about 6 months then the metal part of the key snapped off from the plastic.
My question is, other than a factory Toyota key, is there anyone that people recommend that have held up for a long time? Again, I don't need the insert, just the shell and the key.

Thanks!

I had the same experience with the cheap amazon keys. The only factory style option that will last longer is the Eternity key, if you can find it. It's normally $100-125 + cutting charges from a dealer. Not exactly the best value around.

Yikes! ~$80 for a key....I can get 7 years worth of keys at a break rate of 6 months.
I'll probably just try another one from Amazon.

The YotaMD key is definitely not cheap, but neither is a Land Cruiser or Lexus. You could have bought a Jeep, but you wanted something nicer that's better designed and longer lasting. Similar concept with my key, I believe.

Does all LC should have a FOB ? I currently only have one key and it’s a single unit without buttons or electronic anything. 2001 here.
Tks

Sounds like you have the transponder key. If it's a master you can easily program a new remote key. I've had lots of customers have good luck using the cheap Amazon keys. The plastic is terrible, but the electronics and key blade make a great donor for an aftermarket case like the YotaMD one. If your current key is not a master, then programming a new key can be very difficult and/or expensive.

 

[Austin Hot Shoe]

okay, I have the answer so that we can move on...btw, I do have two YotaMD key fobs. 1) buy a YotaMD fob and never worry about it breaking, ever. 2) buy the cheap plastic fob, a pair of vice grips, and some duct tape. Put the vice grips and tape in your cruiser because you WILL need both WHEN the plastic fob breaks, the vice grips to turn the key in the ignition and the tape to fasten the transponder near the ignition so the imobilizer dosent prevent the truck from starting when you're in the middle of nowhere.....just my two cents.

 

[fblainen11]

I mean I get that I bought a Land Cruiser, but I believe a Jeep or hell even a Kia has a more stout key fob. Not a very good argument. I bought an expensive vehicle because I want it to last....and it does. But the key is a weak point.


Edit: I'll look at the YotaMD site again, but I don't think the wife is gonna go for it.

 

[97 AZ LC]

Edit: I'll look at the YotaMD site again, but I don't think the wife is gonna go for it.

I think you've touched on the salient point here. My plastic key fobs last at least 10 years and give several months notice of impending failure. I think the whole durability argument is just a ruse to get an $80 expenditure for a key past the wives. And then the ruse has to be carried over to Mud just in case the suspicious wife should ever log on to the forum. At least that's the explanation that makes the most sense to me.

 

[fblainen11]

I think you've touched on the salient point here. My plastic key fobs last at least 10 years and give several months notice of impending failure. I think the whole durability argument is just a ruse to get an $80 expenditure for a key past the wives. And then the ruse has to be carried over to Mud just in case the suspicious wife should ever log on to the forum. At least that's the explanation that makes the most sense to me.

I just got done reading to her about all the failed plastic key reports on this thread. "It's an epidemic! I don't want you to get stranded with the kids."

She's slick though. She argued both times a key has broken the car was being turned on and subsequently running...."So I wouldn't be stranded anywhere."

That's why I pay her the big bucks.

 

[apdxyk]

The key wiggled like crazy. My keys can have some wiggle, but nothing like that Stauber.

Your product is so much superior on more than one level that you don't really have to go that low attacking competition.
My first Stauber is on its third year of daily service and has no wiggle whatsoever.

 

[tlebkcalb]

I was able to finally see one of these in person without having to buy one for "market research". The guy at HIH was buying one of mine and couldn't find the wrench for his Stauber key but was sick of it so just told me to rip the key out. It's a little more stout than the OEM key, but not by much. The key wiggled like crazy. My keys can have some wiggle, but nothing like that Stauber. That would drive me nuts. I'm sure you can shim it enough to hold tight, but it was not good. That style case also only works on the "T" and "U" style keys. The "I" styles which comprise about 10% of the key population out there aren't compatible. I think there's a question on the amazon listing about that and the seller just says it's incompatible.

I know it's cheap, but it's huge and the molding isn't quite done correctly. There's visible sink on the front and back. Just poor designing work for an injection molded part. But hey, it is cheap and it will probably last longer than OEM so I have to give 'em that.



I had the same experience with the cheap amazon keys. The only factory style option that will last longer is the Eternity key, if you can find it. It's normally $100-125 + cutting charges from a dealer. Not exactly the best value around.



The YotaMD key is definitely not cheap, but neither is a Land Cruiser or Lexus. You could have bought a Jeep, but you wanted something nicer that's better designed and longer lasting. Similar concept with my key, I believe.



Sounds like you have the transponder key. If it's a master you can easily program a new remote key. I've had lots of customers have good luck using the cheap Amazon keys. The plastic is terrible, but the electronics and key blade make a great donor for an aftermarket case like the YotaMD one. If your current key is not a master, then programming a new key can be very difficult and/or expensive.

H

I was able to finally see one of these in person without having to buy one for "market research". The guy at HIH was buying one of mine and couldn't find the wrench for his Stauber key but was sick of it so just told me to rip the key out. It's a little more stout than the OEM key, but not by much. The key wiggled like crazy. My keys can have some wiggle, but nothing like that Stauber. That would drive me nuts. I'm sure you can shim it enough to hold tight, but it was not good. That style case also only works on the "T" and "U" style keys. The "I" styles which comprise about 10% of the key population out there aren't compatible. I think there's a question on the amazon listing about that and the seller just says it's incompatible.

I know it's cheap, but it's huge and the molding isn't quite done correctly. There's visible sink on the front and back. Just poor designing work for an injection molded part. But hey, it is cheap and it will probably last longer than OEM so I have to give 'em that.



I had the same experience with the cheap amazon keys. The only factory style option that will last longer is the Eternity key, if you can find it. It's normally $100-125 + cutting charges from a dealer. Not exactly the best value around.



The YotaMD key is definitely not cheap, but neither is a Land Cruiser or Lexus. You could have bought a Jeep, but you wanted something nicer that's better designed and longer lasting. Similar concept with my key, I believe.



Sounds like you have the transponder key. If it's a master you can easily program a new remote key. I've had lots of customers have good luck using the cheap Amazon keys. The plastic is terrible, but the electronics and key blade make a great donor for an aftermarket case like the YotaMD one. If your current key is not a master, then programming a new key can be very difficult and/or expensive.

Tks for the response. How would I accomplish that ?

 

[suprarx7nut]

I just got done reading to her about all the failed plastic key reports on this thread. "It's an epidemic! I don't want you to get stranded with the kids."

She's slick though. She argued both times a key has broken the car was being turned on and subsequently running...."So I wouldn't be stranded anywhere."

That's why I pay her the big bucks.

Haha, that's funny. I don't think there's been a documented case where it left anyone stranded, but if it does break cleanly you'll probably need pliers or a make-shift clamp to get it out of the ignition. You may not be stranded, but you may have a running vehicle that you can't lock or turn off until you get home unless you've got a tool with you. I don't think it's a safety issue for most folks on here, just a pain in the ass.

Your product is so much superior on more than one level that you don't really have to go that low attacking competition.
My first Stauber is on its third year of daily service and has no wiggle whatsoever.

Good point, I don't mean to come off that way. I just mention it because I think a lot of folks will find that on Amazon, see the $10 price tag and think, "Sweet, what a cheap solution!" and then get it in the mail and think, "Oh. well that makes a lot of sense now." The I style incompatibility is also something everyone should know which isn't obviously advertised on the listing.