Strongest Stock Toy axles (1 Viewer)

[hitt]

Hello

I have a question about stock toyota axles.
What is the strongest axle i can get from a stock
toyota ?

I am looking to up grade my axle set up in my Suzuki samurai
and i would like to go with Toy axles

im not to worried about weight or width i just want them to
be bomb proof under my sammy

let me know

cause tax time is coming and i will have a little bit of money
to spend!!!!!

Thanks,
Tony

 

[attatoy]

i would fzj 80 rear (but it is ofset slightly) and tundra rear straight?

as for front , definatly fzj 80 front , althoguh the 40 series crusier has larger ring gear, so with longs and arb to kill carier deflection and no spring wrap this might beat it . but they are both good , stock i still give the fzj the thrown though. fzj is electric locked!

 

[4rnr]

i would fzj 80 rear (but it is ofset slightly) and tundra rear straight?

as for front , definatly fzj 80 front , althoguh the 40 series crusier has larger ring gear, so with longs and arb to kill carier deflection and no spring wrap this might beat it . but they are both good , stock i still give the fzj the thrown though. fzj is electric locked!

What he said

But unless you are an unusaully built sammy, mini axles with longfields are tough! and CHEAP (200=front, 100=Rear (IFS Width)

 

[Tapage]

What he said

But unless you are an unusaully built sammy, mini axles with longfields are tough! and CHEAP (200=front, 100=Rear (IFS Width)

Let's talk with which tire size . ?

I thought 80 series axles are the most strong that you can get from Toyota, but you really need those heavy axles ?

60 Axles or Mini Truck could be a option all with 30 splin cromo front set from Boby Long ..

 

[bustanutley]

There isn’t really a definite answer for this question. It’s a toss up between the 8.4” Tacoma diff and a 9.5” landcruiser diff. Landcruiser housing are made of thicker material than mini truck stuff. FZJ80 rears are full float which is positive or negative: Possibly stronger shafts due to loading, however the weight of your sami is most likely almost negligible so bending forces can’t be that high. Full float is heavy and keeping the studs and pins on the drive flanges intact can be troublesome. 80 fronts definitely have the best knuckle/steering, but running leaf springs isn’t really an option with this axle, I have seen it done but it was not an eloquent solution. Spline count for the shafts is all 30 spline thru the year (except very early) and polypro makes chromo shafts for about every toyota rear axle. I say pick a width and go from there.

For what its worth

 

[sleeoffroad]

Hello

I have a question about stock toyota axles.
What is the strongest axle i can get from a stock
toyota ?

For the rear, it has to be the new axle from the Tundra. Huge ring gear and axle shafts.

 

[woody]

for a Sami, if I were building and gonna use Toyota stuff?

1984-85 minitruck, front and rear....build the front with 6-stud knuckles, histeer/assist, vented discs, 4Runner calipers, 30-spline inners/birfs and a lunchbox locker....for the rear, chromo shafts, disc conversion (Monte is cheap) and a spool....stick with stock 4.1 gearsets...

cheap and plentiful, with plenty of housing upgrades down the road if you find spare $$ laying around....

 

[Fast Eddy]

build the front with 6-stud knuckles,

What's your opinion on a 5-stud conversion?

 

[woody]

I like the 5-stud setup....opted for new TrailGear knuckles myself tho
(they look great on the shelf right now, next to some real nice 6-stud 4x4Labs arms )

my present minitruck knuckles are running ARP upper studs (welded in) and they are cryo-treated....thus far, I've been unable to break them....

thus far....

 

[hitt]

thanks for the replys guys

let me be more clear as to what im going to be doing

1. 37" tires
2. locked front and rear
3.(HEEP) xj leafs all around
4.hydro assest steering
5.6:5 tc gears

that is the plan in the next year or so..........i just want it to be totaly
bomb proof "basicaly rockwells under a go cart bomb proof"
i have done the serch thing and just cant figure out why i couldnt
use the 80's front axle with leaf springs and do all the 80's front diff
come with the e-locker??
and personaly i would like to have an offset (center) in the rear
that way i can keep the driveline as stright as possable

as for the other add-ons like the longfields and chrome shafts
and different brake setups , thats way down the road
i would just like to have a set put on and driving by July
i will still have the same tires i have now but ..........
nothing like a little over kill for a little while any way

 

[muddogbob]

I think the 80 axles are going to be too wide for a sammy. Find yourself some fj60/62 axles front and rear and run em. They're cheap to find in pairs and can be built up pretty strong.

 

[bustanutley]

i have done the serch thing and just cant figure out why i couldnt
use the 80's front axle with leaf springs and do all the 80's front diff
come with the e-locker??

1) Steering
2) No

Ditto what muddogbob said, my fj60 axles have been working out well for me on an fj40 running 40s, they are a nice width for a small truck like a sami, right around 58” WMS

 

[woody]

60/62 series are 58" WTW, 40/55 stuff is 55" WTW....either will be an easy install

 

[Gumby]

JoeZ here on the board is running 30 spline longs and stock rears in his 4skinner with 42" IROKs.
Built mini axles are bomb-proof behind a sammi motor unless you're using plate steel for armor. 80 axles are expensive overkill.

 

[4rnr]

While Mini's can be very strong very easy, they are also very weak in stock form the stock birf will likely give you problems, so when you say mods are down the road...keep that in mind. So throw in some 30 spline longs and call it good.

Knuckles are a funny thing with the minis. I beleive the 6 stud knuckles are fix for laziness not weak components. As long as you keep the studs properly tourqued I beleive it is VERY hard to break them. Unless you are running full hydro I think the 6 stud stuff is unecessary.

BTW, I know alot of guys who used the ARP studs and had tons of problems with them and went back to the stockers and all is well now.

79-85 mini axles (front and rears) =55" WMS to WMS

86-95 mini axles (rear) = 58" WMS to WMS

Most people use the 84-85 front (full gusset) with 3" wheel spacing and a 86+ rear. But since this is a sami you can probably get away with no wheel spacers and a pre 86 rear (which you should be able to pick up for free)

 

[4rnr]

JoeZ here on the board is running 30 spline longs and stock rears in his 4skinner with 42" IROKs.
Built mini axles are bomb-proof behind a sammi motor unless you're using plate steel for armor. 80 axles are expensive overkill.

Last week I rode shot gun with him @ the badlands and you can really feel the beating he puts on those from the passenger seat. He loves to climb out of the river at the hair pin turn before the big rockface and he was droing he clutch at 3000 rpm with all the weight on one rear tire pointing strait up!!

 

[bustanutley]

While Mini's can be very strong very easy, they are also very weak in stock form the stock birf will likely give you problems, so when you say mods are down the road...keep that in mind. So throw in some 30 spline longs and call it good.

Knuckles are a funny thing with the minis. I beleive the 6 stud knuckles are fix for laziness not weak components. As long as you keep the studs properly tourqued I beleive it is VERY hard to break them. Unless you are running full hydro I think the 6 stud stuff is unecessary.

BTW, I know alot of guys who used the ARP studs and had tons of problems with them and went back to the stockers and all is well now.

All 3 of these statments are dead on. To add, it is important to retighten toyota knuckles EVERY DAY, if you do that they will treat you right. My good freind runs 44's on his yota axle with full hydro and has only had one knuckle failure and that was because of laziness/false secuirty of running ARP studs. Switched back to toyota studs, not because ARPs are a bad product but because he had them, hasn't had a problem. Also high steer adds a funky moment to the knuckles which is most likely why they loosen up. If you can make stock arms work the loosening problem may go away, I have only seen one crawler that has done this and it is super cool, Brain Ellinger's F-toy

 

[fyresq]

My .02

While the 80, 60, and 40 axles are tough as nails, they are also $$$ and you will probably have the easiest time finding mini truck axles (V6 rear )..........

That way you have disc brakes stock (with 27 spline birfs), SOA, 4.11 gears, Aisin hubs, and the center rear diff that you want. The mini axles have lots of aftermarket support - trussing, chromos, gears, etc. You can also use FJ80 e-lockers in these. Plus on the trail, there should be lots of spares around

FJ40's you will probably have to put discs on, SOA conversion, axles, etc., FJ60's SOA, and FJ80 you will have to 4-link

You can still find these mini's in a junkyard and a decent set of these stockers will cost you ~ $300 for the front and ~ $200 for the rear. You should still have lots 'o money for upgrades. Mini axles are very common in Sammi's

When I'm done, I will have several grand in my 40 axles and they came with my ride

 

[Tapage]

Apart of the cost line ( coz I don't know the prices over there ) 60 series axles could be a nice option .. I run dual ARB and 37" with chains under my heavy 60 series with marks low gear set, with no problems ..

It can bring an idea how much strong they are .. minis are in the same range I believe on the axles, little less in the R&P secction ..

I believe that with the samy weight you don't enithing else than minis .. tu run 37" but to be bomb proof 60 series axles.

 

[hitt]

well guys you have been more then enough help

WOW

i think im going to op for the 60's axles cause the sound

like there going to be bomb proof (at least till i get the 37's)

then i will look in to getting some longs

SO now that i figured out what axles in going to run

is there a certan year i should look for and what i should watch

out for(best year) and did they only come in the 60's

as for the offset Are they off set to the passanger side????

cause this is what i need both front and rear