Stripped a bolt on the hub!

[ElJayBird]

So do I not need access to the back of the hub then? I have access to a full shop and can definitely do the welding idea and impact gun.

 

[Tools R Us]

So do I not need access to the back of the hub then? I have access to a full shop and can definitely do the welding idea and impact gun.

Nope, the drive plate studs thread into the hub.

 

[ElJayBird]

Nice - after just finishing a 4-corner brake job I wasn't looking forward to pulling the hub apart again.

Thanks for your help, guys.

 

[ajax1]

I use the stud puller kit , kernel provided a pic of, you can use these with regular ratchet and the stud will come right out.

 

[fmad]

Reviving a dead thread...
Anyone know how to back out a broken stud?

 

[ajax1]

Stud puller, left hand drill bit, vice grips, double nut

 

[inkpot]

All depends on whether or not it broke off above/below the driveplate. You could pull off the driveplate to get better access.

 

[bigredmachine]

if their not super rusty you may get lucky with a spiral extractor or a pair of vice grips. if worst case scenario you have to drill it out cut the stud flush with the hub so you have a smooth surface, center punch and start drilling. take your time drilling and go slow with plenty of lube, just like in...….nevermind

 

[Beej]

I love this forum because the heavy hitters will weigh in on the lightest material. I'm not a noob anymore but still not more than x3 on a good day and it's still just nice to post here and get answers you can trust.

I use vice grips on mine and buy a bunch of the replacement studs if you're going Toyota. Mine tend not to survive the wacking they get to remove the cone washers.

 

[fmad]

Thanks guys. It broke about flush with the drive plate so I think I’ll have to center punch and slowly drill with lube.

 

[Beej]

If you remove all of the other studs, can you remove the axle and get a bit more space?

 

[Dirty Koala]

Thanks guys. It broke about flush with the drive plate so I think I’ll have to center punch and slowly drill with lube.

If it broke flush with the drive flange, just remove the other drive flange nuts, washers and cones so you can remove the drive flange completely. This will give you access to about 3/8" of the remaining stud. You can then use penetrating oil to let it soak for a couple days and either use vice grips or weld a nut to the stud and back it out.

Drilling is a last resort as you risk f**king up the threads in your hub...turns a $5 fix into $500.

 

[Sarmajor]

It’s a front drive flange / hub in the picture. No need to remove the axle.
Just remove the drive flange and you can have access to as much of the stud is left.

 

[ashooter]

I read the torque values wrong and just broke one of these myself, so went ahead and ordered 6 new ones, since I figure I may have cracked several...

Double nut and then lefty-loosey to get the old studs out?

How about when installing the new studs... Do you use loctite or something to make them stay put when removing the nuts later? Just curious why the stud doesn't come out when unscrewing the nut. Maybe that's part of the cone washer's job?

Thanks

 

[ajax1]

I would not use loctitie not needed. Hand thread the new stud in, install the cone and washer tighten nut to 26 ftlbs

 

[SmokingRocks]

I’ve found that the studs tend to loosen if the threads weren’t fully degreased and cleaned before they were installed.

If you are set on using locktite I would only use a dot of blue on each. By design the hub studs is one of the breakable “fusible link” in the drive train that prevents massive shock loads from damaging more expensive components upstream.

I tend to shear a hub once a year or so during heavy rock crawling. When the studs shear they usually can be backed out of with the application of a reverse drill bit. This makes it very fast and easy to make a trail side repair. If they were set in with locktite that wouldn’t be the case.

 

[SmokingRocks]

posted in the wrong thread -

 

[ashooter]

Thanks, ajax1 and SmokingRocks !