strengthened pinion?

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whats available in the way of stronger pinions for the cruiser rear diffs? i'm sick of snapping them.

last one i did was setup 2 years ago (and driven a couple of times since) by a decent diff guy, using a solid spacer...
 
expensive option considering i'm in australia (shipping there and back would cost more than the process i'd say),

if it's my only option, it's what has to be done. was hoping there was an off the shelf offering, considering that was my last spare 3rd :D
just looked at bobby's site. worst mistake ever...

I want it all

would there be much benefit in heat treating a brand new ring and pinion (might regear while i'm at it)?
 
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Do you have axle wrap or anti-squat or other wheel hop problems. Pinions don't like that ... period. Also - don't care what anyone says, I've busted 4 course spline pinions (well - ok, one was my fault as axle wrap issues weren't properly addressed).

I have had far better luck of late with a fine spline pinion - have been nursing it since (but have snapped one long side poly, severely bent and twisted another long side poly, and just snapped a short side poly along with a busted spring).

Scored a cryo'd 4.56 ring/pinion last year and went ahead and put in my front diff - as have better plans for the rear, and

Curious - what might be the advantages of using an 80 rear diff - larger bearings right, don't they also have a larger pinion gear?
 
80 series rar third is the same as the 60 series front and rear with fine spline pinions.

and i second some of the above, are you having axle wrap issues? seems like if your busting them pretty easy maybe you have just enough axle wrap to bind the u-joint and snap a pinion.
 
X3 where do you broke your pinions .. ? as usual at the spline ..

I've broke to rear longs stoc axles and never a pinion .. now running polys .. let's see if I can do something to brake one .. :D

Edit: did you have a track bar .. ? are you breaking rears or fronts .. ?
 
80 series rar third is the same as the 60 series front and rear with fine spline pinions.

Duh - I have an FJ80 ring and pinion in my 40 carrier up front - I should have known the answer....just wishful thinking I guess.
 
whats available in the way of stronger pinions for the cruiser rear diffs? i'm sick of snapping them.

last one i did was setup 2 years ago (and driven a couple of times since) by a decent diff guy, using a solid spacer...





Post up pictures of your rear axle/suspension and your broken junk....
 
Also - don't care what anyone says, I've busted 4 course spline pinions (well - ok, one was my fault as axle wrap issues weren't properly addressed).



They all have been your fault....unless someone else was operating your junk... :lol:




Unless you have a rear axle suspension system utilizing leaf springs in a manner other than any of the systems used since their inception, axle wrap can and will occur, even when one is using a mechanical means to control/prevent it.


How many times have you stood along side your truck and watched what your drive train was doing while someone else has flogged the s*** out of your truck?


You would be amazed at what is going on under the vehicle to components "you know" do not move.



Glad that you are having better results with a fine spline pinion. Just remember that drive shafts going into a binding position, if only for an instant, will twist the fine spline pinion off just the same as a coarse spline component.



:meh:
 
this last one most likely was driveshaft bind, soft springs, new more powerful motor, and bigger tires, lots of traction on a hard climb are all recipe for spring wrap. and i am putting an anti wrap bar in it before next trip out.

the ones before hand i'm not so sure were, as the rear setup was much stiffer, less power, 33's, no locker. (all have been in the rear)

but even tho i'm going to address the axle wrap problem, i'm not against the idea of strengthening up the pinions. i much prefer to build it once and forget about it.
 
Are you really complaining about broken pinions without even having a anti wrap bar?
 
not complaining. looking to build a stout drivetrain. as i said before, the others were busted on a stock setup. this one i know the wrap bar is needed.
 
my experience:

after a few busted rear coarse spline pinions, I had a set cryo treated...that set lasted a full year before breaking (versus the others that would lasted as little as a month)...

Yes, I broke pinions even with my linked rear suspension...

switched to a fine spline used setup and haven't replaced one since....that was....mmm....2005? (broke one at CM04, busted another a month later, did the cryo set, and finally busted that a year later)


I STILL run a coarse spline front pinion...and have busted a D300 case, 700R case, rear driveshaft, a early ringed-Longfield, a 27-spline short side 4340 PolyPerf inner axle, a Lockrite, a 30-spline Longfield, and more...

ALL on that same coarse spline pinion...


simply put, if you TRULY want to minimize your chances, drop in a fine-spline setup and link the rear suspension....wrap/bind will get you every time.
 
They all have been your fault....unless someone else was operating your junk... :lol:
:meh:


Hahahaa - True enough - :D. Recently had to replace my wrap bar (used an FJ80 front suspension arm) as it was twisted up pretty bad, but the 2nd one has been holding up well - as has the fine spline, but have been real genteel with it :hillbilly:. Somehow feel a little better going thru Woody's carnage list - I've had it much easier than that....
 
simply put, if you TRULY want to minimize your chances, drop in a fine-spline setup and link the rear suspension....wrap/bind will get you every time.

I ran a fine spline pinion in with OME springs with SUA for over 5 years without any breakage.
If you don't/can't control axle wrap, a fine spline will not keep it from breaking.
 
Axle wrap is an obvious pinion breaker...but not the only factor.

I concur with the "minimize" comment - as other factors such as loading and hopping from anti-squat, or simply from large aired down tires wrapping on the rim and bouncing due to relief, or from spinning and then hitting traction, etc. etc. Something will break - sometimes that something is the pinion...I just like to think the fine spline's are better - sometimes it's the simple fact that running older course spline diffs fail due to them maybe having more miles/being worn out, whereas - newer fine spline diffs "might" have fewer miles OR be a new install that's nice and tight...
 

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