Strange scraping noise from he rear while turning (2 Viewers)

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To be honest, I've not ordered from them yet. Someone mentioned using them earlier and I started searching there. Assuming the service is good I'll definitely be starting my searches there for most stuff.
Service is perfect. They will often ship/deliver before a state side dealer finishes processing your order.
 
Turbo8, are there any markings, numbers, or a manufacture name on the OEM bearings? I'm wondering who makes them for Toyota?
Looks like Koyo bearings

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Thank you!
 
The parts that I've gotten from PartSouq have been pretty well packaged...maybe too well.
similar experience here. they double boxed a fuel tank!
 
To be honest, I've not ordered from them yet. Someone mentioned using them earlier and I started searching there. Assuming the service is good I'll definitely be starting my searches there for most stuff.
@BigMF did you resolve this noise? I have new to me 2013, very clean underneath. I have the same noise but only when turning left at lower speeds, slightly worse on bumpy roads. From prior experience on other vehicles I immediately thought stone in the backing plate. I have yet to pull the wheel and inspect. I do not think it is bearing related at all. I know it recently had a brake job by previous owner. I'm thinking if they changed rear drum/rotor and used non OEM it may be slightly too large and rubbing backing plate, especially as the brakes heat up.
 
@BigMF did you resolve this noise? I have new to me 2013, very clean underneath. I have the same noise but only when turning left at lower speeds, slightly worse on bumpy roads. From prior experience on other vehicles I immediately thought stone in the backing plate. I have yet to pull the wheel and inspect. I do not think it is bearing related at all. I know it recently had a brake job by previous owner. I'm thinking if they changed rear drum/rotor and used non OEM it may be slightly too large and rubbing backing plate, especially as the brakes heat up.
My bad, I should have put this out there earlier. At the advice of my local Lexus/Toyota independent mechanic, I took the rotor off and applied an angle grinder to the inner rim of the rotor that was rubbing on the backing plate. Noise gone! Keep in mind this was the inner ring that was rubbing (see below).

As further proof that the backplate is starting to "swell" and contact the rotor, I replaced the rotors with brand new OEM rotors. I could hear AND feel the rubbing as I turned the new rotor by hand. Actually took considerable effort to turn the rotor once it was installed. The parking brake "dial" was completely loosened while attempting so I know it wasn't that. Got the grinder out again and took maybe 1/8th of inch off and the rotor then turned freely with no noise.

BTW, my belief is that the ring below should NOT be shiney, bare metal because it should NOT be contacting anything. So, if you see bare metal on that ring then I'd say with about 99% confidence you have the same issue which could be resolved in the same fashion.

Hope that helps!

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My bad, I should have put this out there earlier. At the advice of my local Lexus/Toyota independent mechanic, I took the rotor off and applied an angle grinder to the inner rim of the rotor that was rubbing on the backing plate. Noise gone! Keep in mind this was the inner ring that was rubbing (see below).

As further proof that the backplate is starting to "swell" and contact the rotor, I replaced the rotors with brand new OEM rotors. I could hear AND feel the rubbing as I turned the new rotor by hand. Actually took considerable effort to turn the rotor once it was installed. The parking brake "dial" was completely loosened while attempting so I know it wasn't that. Got the grinder out again and took maybe 1/8th of inch off and the rotor then turned freely with no noise.

BTW, my belief is that the ring below should NOT be shiney, bare metal because it should NOT be contacting anything. So, if you see bare metal on that ring then I'd say with about 99% confidence you have the same issue which could be resolved in the same fashion.

Hope that helps!
Thank you sir. With my limited abilities by being a shade tree mechanic for years, this is exactly what I expected to find when I pull it apart. I tried all the rock removal tricks yesterday to no avail.
 
Maybe just my ocd, but is there any concern about how evenly you grind? I thought rotors are balanced assemblies (not precison like a crank, or anything). Or at least I assume that is why there are semicircular milled marks on the perimeter of the cooling vanes on rotors that have them.
 
When asked that same question to the mechanic he said unless you go crazy and grind one side down 1/2 inch and the other 1/16th you are probably going not notice any issue at all. I did try to eyeball it as closely as possible but did not go as far as measuring it. I’d say I ground it down unevenly enough to even out. 😉

That being said, I did do it with many passes and only taking a little down at a time. Also, it appeared to only really be rubbing the backing plate in one area so I kind of used that as the guide. Put the rotor on, notice where it’s still making noise and grind that area a little more.
 
If it weren’t so difficult to disconnect the front driveline I’d say flip the rotor around backwards on a rear hub and put the truck in gear to use it as a lathe.

But it’s difficult and would take too much time to make it worth the work.
 
I just did all 4 rotors on my truck again. This was fixed on the OEM rotors around 2013 where they reduced the height of the lip. On aftermarket rotors they still seem to manufacture to the original specification. I took my rears to a machine shop to have them turn down the lip .100-.125 just like I machined them last time and had no issues with the new install.
 
Maybe I recently received new/old stock with OE rotors. My tuck is doing the exact same thing. Replaced front and rear pads/ rotors. Looks like its time to take the grinder out.
 
My new oem rotors had the exact same dimension at that lip as my previews after market ones. So perhaps I received old stock and not updated ones. I had to grind down the lip a bit more than 1/16" because they were scraping badly.
 
Is the cause a corroded and/or swollen backing plate, resolved by grinding down the rotor for a lower effort repair, or is the issue actually the dimensions of the rotors? I've put in several sets of Toyota rotors and never had this issue on two different 200s.
 
Is the cause a corroded and/or swollen backing plate, resolved by grinding down the rotor for a lower effort repair, or is the issue actually the dimensions of the rotors? I've put in several sets of Toyota rotors and never had this issue on two different 200s.

I think that grinding down that lip of the rotor is the easiest solution.
 
Is the cause a corroded and/or swollen backing plate, resolved by grinding down the rotor for a lower effort repair, or is the issue actually the dimensions of the rotors? I've put in several sets of Toyota rotors and never had this issue on two different 200s.
Yes, I believe the root cause (at least for me) is the swollen backing plate. However, removing one of those is a much more involved and expensive process. I'll grind rotors in 5 minutes until I need to replace the wheel bearings and then do the backing plates at the same time.
 
I just did the brake pads and rotors and I am having the same issue. Would the scraping noise just go away after awhile or is it just going to persist until the backing plate is replaced or rotor inner ring is ground down
 
I just did the brake pads and rotors and I am having the same issue. Would the scraping noise just go away after awhile or is it just going to persist until the backing plate is replaced or rotor inner ring is ground down

It will persist. Some days it will be loud, some others you'll barely notice it. I guess it could stop if the rotor goes through the backing plate but that'll take a while.
 

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