nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Service is perfect. They will often ship/deliver before a state side dealer finishes processing your order.
Strange scraping noise from he rear while turning
- Thread starter BigMF
- Start date
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turbo8
Supporting Vendor
The parts that I've gotten from PartSouq have been pretty well packaged...maybe too well.
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
similar experience here. they double boxed a fuel tank!
Bear Lake Cruiser
SILVER Star
@BigMF did you resolve this noise? I have new to me 2013, very clean underneath. I have the same noise but only when turning left at lower speeds, slightly worse on bumpy roads. From prior experience on other vehicles I immediately thought stone in the backing plate. I have yet to pull the wheel and inspect. I do not think it is bearing related at all. I know it recently had a brake job by previous owner. I'm thinking if they changed rear drum/rotor and used non OEM it may be slightly too large and rubbing backing plate, especially as the brakes heat up.
- Thread starter
- #67
My bad, I should have put this out there earlier. At the advice of my local Lexus/Toyota independent mechanic, I took the rotor off and applied an angle grinder to the inner rim of the rotor that was rubbing on the backing plate. Noise gone! Keep in mind this was the inner ring that was rubbing (see below).
As further proof that the backplate is starting to "swell" and contact the rotor, I replaced the rotors with brand new OEM rotors. I could hear AND feel the rubbing as I turned the new rotor by hand. Actually took considerable effort to turn the rotor once it was installed. The parking brake "dial" was completely loosened while attempting so I know it wasn't that. Got the grinder out again and took maybe 1/8th of inch off and the rotor then turned freely with no noise.
BTW, my belief is that the ring below should NOT be shiney, bare metal because it should NOT be contacting anything. So, if you see bare metal on that ring then I'd say with about 99% confidence you have the same issue which could be resolved in the same fashion.
Hope that helps!
Bear Lake Cruiser
SILVER Star
Thank you sir. With my limited abilities by being a shade tree mechanic for years, this is exactly what I expected to find when I pull it apart. I tried all the rock removal tricks yesterday to no avail.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Maybe just my ocd, but is there any concern about how evenly you grind? I thought rotors are balanced assemblies (not precison like a crank, or anything). Or at least I assume that is why there are semicircular milled marks on the perimeter of the cooling vanes on rotors that have them.
- Thread starter
- #70
When asked that same question to the mechanic he said unless you go crazy and grind one side down 1/2 inch and the other 1/16th you are probably going not notice any issue at all. I did try to eyeball it as closely as possible but did not go as far as measuring it. I’d say I ground it down unevenly enough to even out. 
That being said, I did do it with many passes and only taking a little down at a time. Also, it appeared to only really be rubbing the backing plate in one area so I kind of used that as the guide. Put the rotor on, notice where it’s still making noise and grind that area a little more.
That being said, I did do it with many passes and only taking a little down at a time. Also, it appeared to only really be rubbing the backing plate in one area so I kind of used that as the guide. Put the rotor on, notice where it’s still making noise and grind that area a little more.
bloc
SILVER Star
If it weren’t so difficult to disconnect the front driveline I’d say flip the rotor around backwards on a rear hub and put the truck in gear to use it as a lathe.
But it’s difficult and would take too much time to make it worth the work.
But it’s difficult and would take too much time to make it worth the work.
Karbon
SILVER Star
I just did all 4 rotors on my truck again. This was fixed on the OEM rotors around 2013 where they reduced the height of the lip. On aftermarket rotors they still seem to manufacture to the original specification. I took my rears to a machine shop to have them turn down the lip .100-.125 just like I machined them last time and had no issues with the new install.
Maybe I recently received new/old stock with OE rotors. My tuck is doing the exact same thing. Replaced front and rear pads/ rotors. Looks like its time to take the grinder out.
My new oem rotors had the exact same dimension at that lip as my previews after market ones. So perhaps I received old stock and not updated ones. I had to grind down the lip a bit more than 1/16" because they were scraping badly.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Is the cause a corroded and/or swollen backing plate, resolved by grinding down the rotor for a lower effort repair, or is the issue actually the dimensions of the rotors? I've put in several sets of Toyota rotors and never had this issue on two different 200s.
I think that grinding down that lip of the rotor is the easiest solution.
- Thread starter
- #77
Yes, I believe the root cause (at least for me) is the swollen backing plate. However, removing one of those is a much more involved and expensive process. I'll grind rotors in 5 minutes until I need to replace the wheel bearings and then do the backing plates at the same time.
It will persist. Some days it will be loud, some others you'll barely notice it. I guess it could stop if the rotor goes through the backing plate but that'll take a while.
I've been chasing the same noise. I was forced to use NAPA rotors for a rear brake job, and I've caused all sorts of noises.
I had to fit the clips the brake pads. That was the first terrible noise.
Then, I noticed a noise that occurred 10* out of 360* of rotation. I did some searching and realized you HAVE to replace the parking brake shoes. Out of desperation, I found them at Autozone. I replaced them and that got rid of most of the noises.
Then, I took it for a drive and bedded the brakes hard. I got them to the point that I could smell the heat off of them, and drove it home on the highway. This got rid of 99% of the noise. I then noticed an eccentric scraping noise around corners, and I drove around in an empty parking lot in circles pulling the handbrake, and that eliminated the noise completely.
But now, after reading this thread I completely believe that lip that needs to be chamfered down is the culprit. It's likely hitting and the movement in turning corresponds to any and all axle shaft end play and deflection while turning.
I don't want to pull the brakes off again, but at this point I've easily had them on and off 10 times in 3 days. It doesn't matter. I'll grind the inner lip down because I'm positive there is already a wear pattern there.
This kind of knowledge is why I support mud.
I had to fit the clips the brake pads. That was the first terrible noise.
Then, I noticed a noise that occurred 10* out of 360* of rotation. I did some searching and realized you HAVE to replace the parking brake shoes. Out of desperation, I found them at Autozone. I replaced them and that got rid of most of the noises.
Then, I took it for a drive and bedded the brakes hard. I got them to the point that I could smell the heat off of them, and drove it home on the highway. This got rid of 99% of the noise. I then noticed an eccentric scraping noise around corners, and I drove around in an empty parking lot in circles pulling the handbrake, and that eliminated the noise completely.
But now, after reading this thread I completely believe that lip that needs to be chamfered down is the culprit. It's likely hitting and the movement in turning corresponds to any and all axle shaft end play and deflection while turning.
I don't want to pull the brakes off again, but at this point I've easily had them on and off 10 times in 3 days. It doesn't matter. I'll grind the inner lip down because I'm positive there is already a wear pattern there.
This kind of knowledge is why I support mud.
