Shouldn't be a problem unless someone is actually sitting in the middle bench seat.
Builds STPCHLD's rebirth recorded
- Thread starter Rainman
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Shouldn't be a problem unless someone is actually sitting in the middle bench seat.
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
And even then you could say "Hey Bobby, how about 2nd gear for me?"
That brings back memories of growing up in the middle seat of a '72 Chev K10. I was lucky when Dad would warn me before grabbing reverse and smashing my knee. LOL
It can be made to work. I put a nice bench seat out of a 98 Toyota Tacoma, it has a clearance notch in the front of it to provide space for the gearshift to pull back into reverse, and yes my two teen agers can still join me for a fun trip up the mountain behind our house.
Got the seat and belts from a local U Pull for $180, they were like new.
there was still room to put a custom radio and cup holder on the trany hump.
The things I had to modify was to heat and bend the gear shift lever, and move the seat mounting brackets back about 4", no big deal.
What realy made it a worth the effort was it allows my son Chad to wheal it offroad and he is six foot seven.
Got the seat and belts from a local U Pull for $180, they were like new.
there was still room to put a custom radio and cup holder on the trany hump.
The things I had to modify was to heat and bend the gear shift lever, and move the seat mounting brackets back about 4", no big deal.
What realy made it a worth the effort was it allows my son Chad to wheal it offroad and he is six foot seven.
You shouldn't save any problems with the floor shift and the bench. My '71' was originally a three on the tree and a bench. The PO changed it to a floor shift. Just like creepersleeper said, you get used to the person in the center complaining when their knee gets hit.
Don
Don
Rainman
Wondering what my next vehicle will be...
- Thread starter
- #48
Well, came up with a cool fix for the issue with the air cleaner housing being in the way once the disc conversion was swapped in. The booster having to be mounted on a spacer moved the master cylinder forward about a mile. That placed the front reservoir half way into the housing running from the carburetor. PO decided that cutting the sheet metal up was the answer. I think this is a much better idea and takes a fraction of the effort and very little cost. Not to mention that in comparison, almost no time at all.
First two shots are the POs attempt (not finished) at fixing the problem.
These next two shots are my solution to the problem.
Note: Before anyone starts the complaint of not having enough volume with one reservoir, let me point out something. When you press on the brake pedal, the volume of fluid you actually displace is very small. The movement inside the brake calipers and inside the drums is quite small. The lines (as you know) are very narrow inside. You only reduce the amount of fluid in the cup about a tablespoon or so. That's it. So using the larger reservoir will hold more than hough for front and back. You just may want to check the fluids once or twice s opposed to never.
First two shots are the POs attempt (not finished) at fixing the problem.
These next two shots are my solution to the problem.
Note: Before anyone starts the complaint of not having enough volume with one reservoir, let me point out something. When you press on the brake pedal, the volume of fluid you actually displace is very small. The movement inside the brake calipers and inside the drums is quite small. The lines (as you know) are very narrow inside. You only reduce the amount of fluid in the cup about a tablespoon or so. That's it. So using the larger reservoir will hold more than hough for front and back. You just may want to check the fluids once or twice s opposed to never.
Not to mention, that this is basically the exact setup that Toyota went to for every truck forward of the FJ40. Here's my 60-series booster, for example.
Pretty sure the reservoir is only marginally larger...
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Hmmm. So maybe a 60 series MC may be the OEM solution. I guess if you used the MC and the Booster from a 60, no mod of the rod length would be required.
Rick, do you see any other mods that were required to run this in your 40?
What P Valve bracket is that?
Whoops, just realized I said 60-series "booster" and not "master." In either case - no, in order to run the 60 series master, I didn't even have to trim down the push-rod in the brake booster like folks often do in order to run an 80-series master. I just adjusted it to ALMOST its shortest setting, but it cleared and I got the little gap required between booster and master without trimming. The 80-series master apparently pushes more fluid though.
My only complaints are that 1. It was not stocked anywhere, so I had to wait a while to get it and 2. That very master pictured above is now leaking from the bottom of that rubber hose to the front reservoir. It's very slow, so I haven't messed with it or tried to fix it, but disheartening after all the work I did this summer! In short: just make sure you buy a quality rebuild. Mine was from NAPA and I'm not super impressed.
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
So it's leaking around the hose clamp area on the feeder to the second circuit of the MC?
Exactly - so either the clamp isn't tight enough or there is a flaw in that white plastic piece or the rubber hose. Been meaning to turkey baster the fluid down below that level and dig into it. The leaking fluid is ruining my pristine paint job!
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Interested to see what you come up with for a new , soft hose - most are not compatible with brake fluid . I've always been fascinated with how the OEM rubber hoses have lasted so long , still have several dated from 2/'77 on mine to this day - including the brake booster .
Sarge
Sarge
@Weber Sarge - Agreed! When I pulled my drum brakes off, all of the soft lines were still dated 6/75. They were actually not in terrible shape, but incompatible with the parts I used for the disc swap. We will see how long their modern rubber counterparts hold up.
As for the new rubber hose - I'm hoping to not have to replace it. I suspect that if I use a screw-down hose clamp, instead of the tension-clip installed, it will stop leaking . I will obviously inspect the area where to connection is made for obvious defects, but I doubt I'll find any.
In places that I cannot find a suitable replacement hose and the hard fitting has either a bump or barbs a small o-ring can work to seal up the hose .
Sarge
Sarge
Good to know, I'll check that out while I'm in there. Thanks!
Rainman
Wondering what my next vehicle will be...
- Thread starter
- #58
Okay, back to the truck this thread is for.... . . .. . . . . ......
No pictures right now but will get some on the next work session. (maybe tomorrow.)
Back and forth until BINGO! Old Man Emu to the rescue for one much smoother ride. I'm personally glad it ended up this way even though I have no stake in this truck. Just pride for working on it. A few notes on the "newer" setup:
1. Maybe I just don't remember from 2NDCHNC but the 10mm bolts for the spring pins are too long for the Dakar springs. I'll have to measure but they'll need a good 5mm taken of the threads to keep them from running into the spring eyes.
2. The new (not triangulated) anti-reversable shackles are interesting. Only thing I don't like is that the two spreaders are threaded on both ends and you need to thread both shafts to one side before installing. (the anti-reverse side or outside plate) I unfortunately thought I could get them started and then Finish them up when bottoming out the other sides. Not a chance. So I'll need to take the first one back off, clean the grease off so I can hold on to the shafts as I thread them in all the way, then re-wrestle it back on.
3. We need one wagon white wheel for the non existing spare and I figured I'd better get the right backspacing so while the wheels are off on the back for the OME deal, I checked one. OVER 4"! What? Surely the fronts aren't that big or just maybe they have spacers. I'll bet they do... unless they are different. (Surely not) They have nearly a half inch of clearance on the TREs.
Not getting to work on this as often as I thought I would but it's getting there.
No pictures right now but will get some on the next work session. (maybe tomorrow.)
Back and forth until BINGO! Old Man Emu to the rescue for one much smoother ride. I'm personally glad it ended up this way even though I have no stake in this truck. Just pride for working on it. A few notes on the "newer" setup:
1. Maybe I just don't remember from 2NDCHNC but the 10mm bolts for the spring pins are too long for the Dakar springs. I'll have to measure but they'll need a good 5mm taken of the threads to keep them from running into the spring eyes.
2. The new (not triangulated) anti-reversable shackles are interesting. Only thing I don't like is that the two spreaders are threaded on both ends and you need to thread both shafts to one side before installing. (the anti-reverse side or outside plate) I unfortunately thought I could get them started and then Finish them up when bottoming out the other sides. Not a chance. So I'll need to take the first one back off, clean the grease off so I can hold on to the shafts as I thread them in all the way, then re-wrestle it back on.
3. We need one wagon white wheel for the non existing spare and I figured I'd better get the right backspacing so while the wheels are off on the back for the OME deal, I checked one. OVER 4"! What? Surely the fronts aren't that big or just maybe they have spacers. I'll bet they do... unless they are different. (Surely not) They have nearly a half inch of clearance on the TREs.
Not getting to work on this as often as I thought I would but it's getting there.
Rainman
Wondering what my next vehicle will be...
- Thread starter
- #59
Getting a little more time to spend on STPCHLD and here's the result. One pair of OME springs and shocks on the rear. The room to work in is pinched by the Hudson sitting in the other half of the garage. I'm a little spooked and try and not tap it with the floor jack handle or a spring.
Without even getting to stand back and take a broad look at it, I can see that the truck looks better already. Nice clean and tall springs instead of the rusty iron that was on it. If all goes well, should get the fronts on today. I forgot to measure the hight of the truck before the swap. I have measured the front bumper and it's 21" off the floor right now. We shall see.
First shot is before the old grey mare springs came out. (the other side is in.)
Freshly installed with the ugly OME sticker facing in.
I had never seen shock eyes that big on a Cruiser shock. Turns out you have to install the shock BEFORE you fully mount the springs to the axle. (cramp!) Also, remove about 3 to 4 threads of length off of the 8mm bolts for the spring pins. I had forgotten about that from the 2NDCHNC build. These OME springs are so thick, the perch mounting bolts on the outside have no room once they go through the chassis iron.
Love the new look under here. And these shackles must be new within the last year. The anti-reversal solution is WAY simpler than the old triangulated system. A simpler, better solution that uses a lot less material.
Without even getting to stand back and take a broad look at it, I can see that the truck looks better already. Nice clean and tall springs instead of the rusty iron that was on it. If all goes well, should get the fronts on today. I forgot to measure the hight of the truck before the swap. I have measured the front bumper and it's 21" off the floor right now. We shall see.
First shot is before the old grey mare springs came out. (the other side is in.)
Freshly installed with the ugly OME sticker facing in.
I had never seen shock eyes that big on a Cruiser shock. Turns out you have to install the shock BEFORE you fully mount the springs to the axle. (cramp!) Also, remove about 3 to 4 threads of length off of the 8mm bolts for the spring pins. I had forgotten about that from the 2NDCHNC build. These OME springs are so thick, the perch mounting bolts on the outside have no room once they go through the chassis iron.
Love the new look under here. And these shackles must be new within the last year. The anti-reversal solution is WAY simpler than the old triangulated system. A simpler, better solution that uses a lot less material.
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Looking good Rainey.
Rainey gave me one of the anti reversal shackles that wasn't properly threaded. I'll need to contact Kurt at CruiserOutfitters and swap it out.
EDIT: Thread is a 13mm - not in the Tap & Die kit.
Rainey gave me one of the anti reversal shackles that wasn't properly threaded. I'll need to contact Kurt at CruiserOutfitters and swap it out.
EDIT: Thread is a 13mm - not in the Tap & Die kit.
