Still---lexus Vibes At Standard Ome Height!

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Okay, let's start over. I dealt with something similar to this situation recently.

1. Do you still have ANY vibration problems when you take your rear driveshaft out?

2. Do you still have ANY vibration problems when you take your front driveshaft out?

3. When you say "new" driveshafts, do you mean that the u-joints are new also?

4. Is your front driveshaft mounted out-of-phase?

5. Is your rear driveshaft mounted in-phase?

6. Do you have any leaks from your transfer case of any kind?

In my limited experience, the grrrr will occur if the rear drive shaft is mounted in-phase, or if the front driveshaft is mounted out-of-phase, even if they are balanced.

7. Are their any "clunks" associated with driving the truck, or is the travel of the driveshaft and suspension smooth?

Your truck is old. The mere "fact" that a 100 is "better" will not help you; this could easily happen in a 100. Just because your lifted 100 has no such driveline annoyances does not mean that the next one, even if lifted to the same standard, will not. I think that you need to start from the ground up, and pay attention to the questions I asked. Land Cruisers, any model, DO get driveline problems. That you would replace the truck with a 100 and assume that you will be problem-free is a little simple-minded, IMO.

Good luck. Post back (with tech if you can manage).

Thanks for your ideas. Wait until you hear the answers.

1. No
2. Yes
3. Front is all new OEM. Rear has new OEM U's and was re-walled with .200.
4. Cannot tell. The OEM front doesn't come marked from Toyota....unless we missed something.
5. Yes
6. No leaks
7. No clunks. Driveline's tight.

I say I want a 100 intead because they're newer and I prefer them on or off road. Plus, by making one a dedeicated trail rig, I'd not care about scratches or damamge like I do with my current one.

So what do you think about #4?
 
that this degenerated into a '100's rule, 80's suck' thread

Not so. But many non-100 owners are very sensitive about any 100 comments. If 80's suck I'd a not bought 2 and built them already. My mistake was buying a second 80 (the LX) instead of a second 100. It's too late now.
 
Thanks for your ideas. Wait until you hear the answers.

1. No
2. Yes
3. Front is all new OEM. Rear has new OEM U's and was re-walled with .200.
4. Cannot tell. The OEM front doesn't come marked from Toyota....unless we missed something.
5. Yes
6. No leaks
7. No clunks. Driveline's tight.

Are all these answers based on doing testing as the truck sits now?
 
#4 is easy to tell based on the diagram in the FSM or the one posted in the driveline FAQ

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Not so. But many non-100 owners are very sensitive about any 100 comments. If 80's suck I'd a not bought 2 and built them already. My mistake was buying a second 80 (the LX) instead of a second 100. It's too late now.

Sorry, but that's just a stupid thing to say. You are actually saying that 100's are not susceptible to driveline vibrations. That's goofy.
 
Thanks for your ideas. Wait until you hear the answers.

1. No
2. Yes
3. Front is all new OEM. Rear has new OEM U's and was re-walled with .200.
4. Cannot tell. The OEM front doesn't come marked from Toyota....unless we missed something.
5. Yes
6. No leaks
7. No clunks. Driveline's tight.

I say I want a 100 intead because they're newer and I prefer them on or off road. Plus, by making one a dedeicated trail rig, I'd not care about scratches or damamge like I do with my current one.

So what do you think about #4?

I think that if the rear driveshaft is not mounted in-phase you will have the vibration and grrrr you describe. That was my experience.

See Romer's post. If your rear driveshaft is even a few degrees out-of-phase you could have problems. The marking it won't matter all that much as long as you conscienciously (sp?) line up the splines.

Good luck.
 
Also, as mentioned previously, you are still using springs out of their intented use spec. So you could possible have a vibration from the rear since it is to high. You should be able to dial the rear in to get it quiet. Remove the front, take your mechanic on a road trip and keep adjusting until you get it quiet. If you can not, then something else is causing it.
 
You are actually saying that 100's are not susceptible to driveline vibrations. That's goofy.

Never said such a thing. The desire to build another 100 isn't because driveline issues don't occur. It's because I prefer the vehicle.

Since the Lexus has not been working right I've been using my 100 more and actually running insane lines like the one above. Fearing damage I used to pass on some tings. I've discovered though that the 100 does even the insane lines and handily, like the 80. This makes it easy for me to dump the LX if I can't get it working right.
 
okay...John

you win.



YOU ARE THE ULTIMATE WEB WHEELER


your prize is in the mail...

:rolleyes:
 
John, I think you need a reality check. Check the used price of your 100 series currently. I think based on that you should just wheel the s*** out of it and be done. I know you had it since new, but that doesn't matter anymore.

Building another truck does not make sense. We talked about it when you did your LX450. You do not want a hard core wheeler, so why not stay with the 100, dump the ARB on the front, get a custom bumper made and wheel how you want to. Then sell the LX450 and buy a nice GX470 for daily driver.
 
Also, .2" wall is really thick and can be difficult to balance. Remember you can balance a square block as well. I would suggest you try a stock driveshaft as well. The most we use on driveshafts are 1.2"

All you answers, based on the current setup points to a issue on the rear. Maybe the driveshaft, maybe somewhere else.
 
John, I think you need a reality check. Check the used price of your 100 series currently. I think based on that you should just wheel the s*** out of it and be done. I know you had it since new, but that doesn't matter anymore.

Building another truck does not make sense. We talked about it when you did your LX450. You do not want a hard core wheeler, so why not stay with the 100, dump the ARB on the front, get a custom bumper made and wheel how you want to. Then sell the LX450 and buy a nice GX470 for daily driver.

I'd like to find a 100 the same color as mine. Swap bumpers, then while my existing one. That way I have the best of both worlds.
 
Also, .2" wall is really thick and can be difficult to balance. Remember you can balance a square block as well. I would suggest you try a stock driveshaft as well. The most we use on driveshafts are 1.2"

All you answers, based on the current setup points to a issue on the rear. Maybe the driveshaft, maybe somewhere else.

Do you think it's worth the $$$$ to take the truck to the drive shaft shop for eval? They say they work on vibes. ???
 
No pics huh? That's what I thought. :)


well, you see, that's just the thing. pictures never do any trail justice. things tend to flatten out -- you lose a lot in the way of perspective.


I hadn't said it before, but I wasn't terribly impressed with the pics you posted earlier, but I'm sure in actuality, it was probably pretty hairy. sure, I could show you pics, but then we'd simply get into a pissing match of "well, that doesn't look that tough..."

and honestly, I know it's not going result in anything constructive.



So...I'll end with this -- any time you want to run the Rubicon with us, just let me know. Bring your 80, your 100, your scooter...your...whatever...

oh...and don't forget to bring your photographer to document your carnage.

run the trail, then give your opinion.
 
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