Still---lexus Vibes At Standard Ome Height!

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3Feathers has about 5-6 lines you can take to get to the top. The easiest line has an 20" ledge while making a right turn and spinning rear tires in loose dirt. Most folks take that line. I prefer the one to the right of it, a nasty V notch with ledges and a 45* up angle. I hit that one all day long. The line John is refering to is the far left. I had been holding off on that one until I got bigger tires (I feel more comfortable with a little more clearance on that one), so the next time I go I'll own that b&%$#. I don't mean to bust on ya John, but I don't think it's as nasty as you make it out to be IMO.

You'll be fine. Any lifted Cruiser can do the line with big tires and lockers. You'll luv the rush! It makes going up The Step at the Gap look easy! :beer:
 
John, after you go to the driveline shop, let me know and I will re-open this thread to continue the technical discussion. Just PM me.
 
OK folks here's the latest. I think Slee and me have a plan. After the update I would like to hear your answers to a question.

I've driven the LX since we last spoke. I've determined I'm not happy with it at stock height because it's too close to my 100 and still want to take the 100 out. I want a meaner machine, one like I was working on before. I'm hoping when it's done I'll start BASHING 100-Series. :D

*I decided to not pay the $240 for in-town vibration searching simply because I want more lift. It would be a waste.

*I've decided to add the front arms and 6" medium springs (I have the rest already) which will complete the Slee 6" package. This will give me the aggressiveness I'm looking for.

*Slee and I still anticipate some vibrations to still be there because we haven't found the existing culprit yet. That's OK though as I'll live with it, OR, consider a part-time hub kit.

QUESTIONS:

1. IF the vibes are still front-caused, are you a fan of the part-time hubs?

2. What wheel backspacing should I get. Those crome LX wheels are going. I'll keep my 315 tire size despite the new height.

Thanks folks! Help me become a 100-basher! :D
 
Does it run smooth with the front shaft out? If not the part time kit wont do any good.

Thats exactly what i was about to say.

My front shaft is off right now because after having a caster sweep and seeing i was at 6degrees and getting a lot of grrrr. Once the front shaft is off, i got no grrrrr.

so that would make me think that hubs would work in my case. But i have bigger plans and then i will see where i end up.
 
Thats exactly what i was about to say.

My front shaft is off right now because after having a caster sweep and seeing i was at 6degrees and getting a lot of grrrr. Once the front shaft is off, i got no grrrrr.

so that would make me think that hubs would work in my case. But i have bigger plans and then i will see where i end up.

Ya...that's our plan I think. The deal is:

I GOTTA GO 6"

IF vibes exist, I can:

Ship to Slee ($450 each way), pay him to research ($Hundreds), and in the end MIGHT need the hubs anyway.

Or, drop the $500 on the hubs, have them installed and be done.
 
It always has driven good with the front shaft out.

Is this the same thing as saying "There are ZERO vibrations with the front shaft removed" ? ?

'Cause if this is the same thing, then the part-time kit will make the truck operate as though the front shaft was removed.

IMHO, the FT 4wd is one of the best features of the 80-Series and that is one of the LAST things that I would want to disable. I'll admit that having selectable hubs adds some advantages on the trail in case of breakage but other than that, I see no advantages that would move me to disable the FT 4wd.

-B-
 
Is this the same thing as saying "There are ZERO vibrations with the front shaft removed" ? ?

'Cause if this is the same thing, then the part-time kit will make the truck operate as though the front shaft was removed.

IMHO, the FT 4wd is one of the best features of the 80-Series and that is one of the LAST things that I would want to disable. I'll admit that having selectable hubs adds some advantages on the trail in case of breakage but other than that, I see no advantages that would move me to disable the FT 4wd.

-B-

Vibes? Actually.....yes. At 5.5" front and 5" rear I did get it dialed in really well with the front shaft out.

And yes....I agree on the FT4WD. Part time kit will be the LAST option. I'm not looking for zero vibration this time around. I want a "drivable truck without wearing crap out" to the trailhead.
 
Vibes? Actually.....yes. At 5.5" front and 5" rear I did get it dialed in really well with the front shaft out.
...

My next test would be to remove the front drive plates and tape up the openings, then test drive. The shaft may turn smoothly without the load on it? If so you will only need the hubs and not have to open the transfer.

What really sucked was driving around without a rear one. I did burnouts 24/7. :D

The first time I did that, I was looking around to see who was spinning their tires, couldn't be me!:D
 
My next test would be to remove the front drive plates and tape up the openings, then test drive. The shaft may turn smoothly without the load on it? If so you will only need the hubs and not have to open the transfer.

Yes....good idea. Our install plan:

Install the 6" springs, set pans and rear uppers and road test.

Remove front shaft and re-trim rear upper arms until smoother/est (if needed).

Install D/C front shaft (install complete) and re-test. Fine tune rear uppers to look for more smoothness.

Get an alignment as my lift height is finalized.

If vibes are not tolerable then the next step is your suggestion and I'll install the part-time kit accordingly.
 
I hate to throw a wrench in things, as this was clearly painful, but doesn't it make more sense to diagnose and fix your vibes, and then do the lift?

We discussed that. To me it's not worth it. If I pay the $240 minimum and they correct something I still will re-lift the truck to 6". Vibes might come back and there goes another $240+ again. So, if at 6" I have vibes, I can:

1. Go pay the $240 and see what they say
2. Pay $500 and part-time it and be done
3. Pay out the nose and ship to Christo and pay him for #1 and maybe even #2 if needed.

I vote for #2, BUT.....if the vibes are there but not severe I might drop the $240 to the shop as one last save to retain FT4WD.
 
I hate to throw a wrench in things, as this was clearly painful, but doesn't it make more sense to diagnose and fix your vibes, and then do the lift?

And wrenches are welcome. I appreciate everyone's help. This has been a pain in the ass for me and MUD members (and Slee). :D

There will probably be a reward for the MUD-ees. At 6" and my custom bumps I'm expecting to be on fire about the Lexus. This should result in 100-slapping within threads. Everyone on MUD will be happy! :D
 
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