Steering stabilizers, where are you guys getting them?

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buckroseau

buckroseau

May I have another!!!
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During the resto on my 77 FJ40 I installed a saginaw power kit. Works very well, absolutely love it!

I had the front end aligned a couple days ago, I was actually only an 1/8" off on the toe in when I had put it together, and I was using a tape measure. I am experiencing an ever so slight wander down the road at highway speeds. Guy at the alignment shop recomended installing a steering stabilizer shock up front, he said that would take care of that wander. I realize FJ's originally had one, but I thought with the power steering kit I would have been able to eliminate it.

My question is, where are you guys buying them? Also, I imagine it fastens to the factory point on the frame and do they come with a bracket to fasten them to the tie rod running across from wheel to wheel?

Thanks, Matt
 
I ran two steering stabilizers on my (power steering) 55. Got them on sale from Joe Turpin at JT Outfitters. They made a huge difference on my truck.

TJK
 
Ste2ering stabilizer

I have a Rancho kit, sold for the FJ40. It comes with two brackets. The large bracket fastens to the axle housing, the small bracket fastens to the tie rod. I have mounted mine three different ways, none of which involve using the tie-in to the frame front cross member that was used by the factory set up. I haven't seen an aftemarket stabilizer that uses the frame mount - all I have ever seen is a stabilizer between the axle housing and the tie rod.

I'm trying running mine without the stabilizer now, since the new spring plates I just put on interfere with my preferred mounting method. Anyone that sells Rancho shocks should also sell the stabilizer bracket kit and stabilizer kit. I'm sure that other manufacturers also sell the same type of thing.

I preferred having the axle mount on the drivers side, just inside of the u-bolt, on the front/top, with the stabilizer body mounted on that end, with the shaft end on the tie rod. You'll need to test your mounting to assure that the rod or tie rod mount doesn't impact the front diff 'cover' when you turn right.

I tried it reversed, with the axle mount against the pumpkin, and the tie rod end on the drivers side, but I never could totally eliminate interference with the tie rod end clamp and/or the turn stops on the knuckle when I turned full left.
 
OME makes a stabilizer that mounts in the oem location. I run a rancho and have had no problems with it. MAF sells them and probably lots of others.
 
I have an aftermarket supplemental stabilizer that was sold by SOR. It is in addition to the standard toyota stabilizer. I have found the two together, plus fixing everything else like the center arm and tie rod ends has pretty much fixed the wander. I tried removing it once and went back immediately, it was such a difference. They don't sell that one anymore, however. I suppose it is like the ones sold by other dealers, so I guess they are the same. It clamps to the tie rod and the axle.
 
Is there a way to get a stabilizer that uses the stock mount point on the frame and then goes to the tie-rod? The ones I'm seeing, aftermarket stuff, mounts to the axle with a bracket and then to the tie rod with a braket.

Does anyone make one that uses the frame stock location and then has a bracket that bolts to the tie-rod?

Thanks, Matt
 
i got a OME yellow one from man-a-fre i think it was $ 60, it mounts in the stock location and is less then the rancho kit that you would need. I changed all tie rod ends and rebuilt the center arm now i can run down the road at 70 mph with no wander. Also if you have manual stearing there is an adjustment on the stearing box that removes some of the play, at least on E-3/69.
 
buckroseau said:
Is there a way to get a stabilizer that uses the stock mount point on the frame and then goes to the tie-rod? The ones I'm seeing, aftermarket stuff, mounts to the axle with a bracket and then to the tie rod with a braket.

Does anyone make one that uses the frame stock location and then has a bracket that bolts to the tie-rod?

Thanks, Matt
Click to expand...


Matt,

Please think about what you are asking....



NO.


If you have installed an aftermarket powersteering set up that removes the bellcrank assembly from up front, then you will need to install an aftermarket stabilizer to the axle.

Have you gone through the front knuckles and is the pre-load on the knuckle bearings set properly? Are you running a longer shackle in the front? Have you done a shakle reversal? What is your caster angle currently set at? I have found that not having the caster set properly has led to many a wandering issue...


Good luck!

-Steve
 
I think the pics explain what I mean? Maybe no one makes such a creature?
 
Poser said:
Matt,

Have you gone through the front knuckles and is the pre-load on the knuckle bearings set properly? Are you running a longer shackle in the front? Have you done a shakle reversal? What is your caster angle currently set at? I have found that not having the caster set properly has led to many a wandering issue...


Good luck!

-Steve
Click to expand...

Yes, Yes. No, stock length. No shackle reversal, stock, all new greasable bushings, new ends, everything is new.... As far as I know, caster angle is stock, 2/5" lift with new springs.

Thanks, Matt
 
If your steering is set up well there is no need for a stabilizer..

If you are really interested in one get a Hydro assist unit and be done with it.
 
a lot of people are mentioning ones that mount in the stock location...he can't use stock location at both ends because the power steering eliminates the spot at the bell crank on the bottom of the center arm. as for running frame location to tie rod, the angles would be so screwed up that i don't think it would work. just look at the pic of the front end and imagine...you'd jam the shock. it has to be parallel to the way the rods move to absorb the movement and mounting frame to tie rod would be too close to vertical.
 
You said now it has a wander in the front end. Did it drive better before the alignment job? Do you have oversized tires? Oversized tires sometimes need a little more toe-in.

Like Mace said if the front end is set up right it won't need a stabilizer. I have worn out everything in my front end and with saginaw and high steer it drives effortlessly on 35" mudders without wandering.
 
At least there are a few other people with comprehension skills that are replying to this damn thread...
 
hammerhead said:
You said now it has a wander in the front end. Did it drive better before the alignment job? Do you have oversized tires? Oversized tires sometimes need a little more toe-in.

Like Mace said if the front end is set up right it won't need a stabilizer. I have worn out everything in my front end and with saginaw and high steer it drives effortlessly on 35" mudders without wandering.
Click to expand...

It drove about the same before the alignment job, a very slight wander. It isn't bad, just ever so slight, just seems like it could be better. It was about an 1/8" off, they toe'd the tires in that 1/8" The tires are 33 x 9.5"

I'm wondering also if the the saginaw steering sector needs to be tighted a little bit? Or maybe loosen it up a bit?

So basicly on the stabilizer I need to get the one that bolts to the axle and then to the tie-rod?

Matt
 
I'm running 35s with almost 3/16" toe-in and it drives great. When adjusting your saginaw be sure the pitman is dead center.

Yes, if you want a stab get one that mounts to the axle and tie-rod. When mounting the stab you can roll it up slightly to make it less vulnerable to rocks.
 
I did the Saginaw conversion this winter and am running a flat spring SOA w/33's. I don't have a stabilizer and can't understand how adding one would help your situation. With the relay rod angle, you will have bump steer issues and a shackle reversal would be a much better cure for the wander you are experiencing. A stabilizer only helps with sharp, fast action travel of the steering components. That is the design of the valving in the stabilizer shock. Vehicle wander is a function of looseness in the chassis or steering components. If there was sudden steering travel at speed, you wouldn't have wander, you would have roll-over. This is not to say that a stabilizer is completely unnecessary, it is just not the solution to the problem you have.

I would look closely at the spring hanger and shackle bushings, I bet you are getting the wander from play in these. I would really suggest doing the shackle reversal and ditching the stabilizer. My 40 handles almost like it was made in the last decade rather than before I was born and I have to believe that the SR has as much to do with that as does the PS. It's a Cruiser, I don't think they ever handled like a F1 race car. Add a little more toe-in, check the caster, and then realize it won't ever be an Indy car.
 
buckroseau said:
As far as I know, caster angle is stock, 2/5" lift with new springs.
Click to expand...

My 4" lift changed the castor from +1 to -3 degrees and the truck wandered. When I added 4 degree shims the wander went away. I think you should measure the castor.
 
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