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- #21
Where the hard lines attached to the rack. each line has a O-ring
Steering Rack (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Broski
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- Thread starter
- #22
Post #13 center left in the picture right where the two white plugs are .
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Thanks. I found an o ring on the parts diagram that said it required 4 for the rack so I would assume that's them
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- #24
I would say that they are for the two hard line that are attached to the rack, not sure if there the same.
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- #25
44418C are for the hard lines already on the rack, I can't seem to find the the one's that go to lines feeding the rack hopefully there the same.
I would throw a wrench on both lines and if there the same you probably good to go.
I would throw a wrench on both lines and if there the same you probably good to go.
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- #27
Hopefully there the same and will work, there not the ones I was missing
Just follow one of the good YouTube videos it’s a relatively easy job technically and they go bolt by bolt - no need for the FSM. I’d rather do the timing belt on the 4.7 than the starter although you end up doing both.I will be doing the Timing belt next, parts came in today
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Got them on a 20% off and free shipping
Not going to tackle this job tell I get a FSM in hand, found a good deal on a full set on E-Bay Shipping is a bit slow. estimated delivery is Sept 18th
Not going to lie I'm a little nervous about this job
The BIG thing is some of those videos will have you replacing the belt on TDC (top dead center) alignment mark and the cams can roll in that position (ask me how I know, but fortunately a 2004 2UZ is not an interference engine like the ‘05+ variable valve timing).
There is a “T” mark for timing belt change alignment. Use that and it would be hard to go wrong. Can’t tell from your parts but do the water pump at the same time it’s 90% of the belt job.
Also the poly bushings are because the rubber in that rack design allows a lot of movement, most likely why the OEM racks have a relatively short lifespan. Toyota fixed how the rack mounts to the frame starting with 4th gen 4Runners, but it’s advisable and cheap for the 1st gen Sequoia/Tundra and 3rd gen 4Runners.
BothRight now I have the cruiser ripped apart all over the shop
View attachment 3468479
with both RCV shafts snapped.
. I’m about to install the 30 spline upgrade RCV in the 80.You don’t want to let the timing belt go forever but having done a few they have come out at 120K+ miles looking new enough I had to be careful to not mix up old and new.
As much fun as that job is…I think it’s a 150K interval if all OEM parts…
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- #31
Yep both, but there the old style 24 spline and been beaten on them since 2015.Both
You don’t want to let the timing belt go forever but having done a few they have come out at 120K+ miles looking new enough I had to be careful to not mix up old and new.
As much fun as that job is…I think it’s a 150K interval if all OEM parts…
I upgraded to the 30 spline ultimate 300M Shafts $$$
Tundra only has 125k miles but no record of it being done. It could have been done under previous ownership.
The timing belt kits have a sticker that comes with them that you write the swap date on and stick on the engine cover. That’s not a guarantee, but in the absence I’d assume it hasn’t been done.
One of my sons’ friends bought a 2005 4Runner at 220K - the seller said the job was done a couple of years earlier. But it wasn’t and the belt blew at 25 mph. 2005+ is the VVTI engine and it killed the motor.
Timing belts are one of those things…that shouldn’t exist. But give yourself 4-5 hours a day across two days and it’s easy enough…just look for the alignment T on the cams and step by step video that shows you exactly that alignment positioning. It’s really the only thing you can do wrong besides skipping steps and leaving out parts.
