i use Lubeguard FIXX with good result
Steering Flush & Cleaning (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2001LC
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2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #182
Do not use just any "stop leak". I've had issue when these stop leaks used. Example was an HP & low pressure line in good condition, needed replacing. Why stop leak glued flares fitting into rack. Removing the flare nuts, it was also glued to hard line, twisted line closed/pinched it.
At-205 restore rubber plasticity, by adding back the plasticizer time and in many cases old dirty (gunk) fluid leached out. There may be other plasticizer on the market IDK! But do not use a glue/filler that fills in leaks to plug them.
At-205 restore rubber plasticity, by adding back the plasticizer time and in many cases old dirty (gunk) fluid leached out. There may be other plasticizer on the market IDK! But do not use a glue/filler that fills in leaks to plug them.
Cool thanks, just looked into it and it seems Lubegard, At-205 and blue devil are all basically Glycol Ethers. That being said its odd that only At-205 is struggling to put it out.
I've read some of your posts about that, excuse my ignorance but which is which?
My driver's side boot was wet when I bought the truck a month ago. I cleaned it off but have not driven it much since I was playing with the AHC and the Tees. From the service records the leak started about 30K miles back. The owner kept declining the repair when the dealer wrote it up at each of his last six services. He must have been given the price for a rack replacement.
This shows how CarFax can be misleading when it says "serviced". Could be just a set of wiper blades changed while declining major service.
So you are saying the AT-205 will not do much to slow down any seal leak that wets the boots.
I’m not sure if I’ve missed this through this thread but what is the easiest way to replace these hoses? Meaning how did you get access to the other ends? I have the hoses with me and new clamps but the space to get in there behind the air box is quite cramped.
"Correct output (boot cover) seal leak, are usually damaged seals. It may slow, but not often stop."
I am finding that to be very true--
I am finding that to be very true--
Apparently there’s supposed to be a screen in there? Cleaned mine out today and found no screen to be had…
I've seen them where someone poke holes in screen, presumably to get flow. But that is the first I've seen screen removed.
How would someone even do that!
Looks like magic. There are some expensive ones from the UK that don't have filters. Requires the owner to stay on top of fluid changes.
These must be for people that make frequent water crossings that need it to vent up to the breather manifold.
This is for an 80 series.
I wonder if it rusted out or something? My worst fear is the mesh is somewhere down the supply line clogging things up.I've seen them where someone poke holes in screen, presumably to get flow. But that is the first I've seen screen removed.
How would someone even do that!
I'm gonna throw an external filter on the return line, Magnefine makes a 3/8" barbed unit thats well reviewed.
Has anyone used an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the reservoir and screen?
Also i'm trying to find part numbers for the OEM clamps for the low pressure lines. I want to replace the 2 hoses with the 3/8 and 5/8 hose as mentioned but would like to get new OEM clamps for them. will the 03+ clamps work or are the hoses different sizes on the 03+?
Also i'm trying to find part numbers for the OEM clamps for the low pressure lines. I want to replace the 2 hoses with the 3/8 and 5/8 hose as mentioned but would like to get new OEM clamps for them. will the 03+ clamps work or are the hoses different sizes on the 03+?
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #198
I use ultrasonic cleaner for reservoir w/Simple Green (currently), works well.
3/8 ATF cooler line works well for 98-02 return line (low pressure). But some of the 3/8" is thicker (larger OD) than others. If you get the thicker, than OEM clamps work well. But if the thinner (smaller OD) walled, they don't fit sung enough. For those I use fuel line clamps. The hose I was getting at Advance Auto, was the thicker.
For suction hose I always use OEM, with OEM clamps. There is 2 different suction hoses, depending on year. One being a hair shorter. But they both fit all years.
OEM clamps are all the same 98-07. Typically the old clamps are okay and reusable. Although, I have occasionally found some suction hose clamps bad.
3/8 ATF cooler line works well for 98-02 return line (low pressure). But some of the 3/8" is thicker (larger OD) than others. If you get the thicker, than OEM clamps work well. But if the thinner (smaller OD) walled, they don't fit sung enough. For those I use fuel line clamps. The hose I was getting at Advance Auto, was the thicker.
For suction hose I always use OEM, with OEM clamps. There is 2 different suction hoses, depending on year. One being a hair shorter. But they both fit all years.
OEM clamps are all the same 98-07. Typically the old clamps are okay and reusable. Although, I have occasionally found some suction hose clamps bad.
Thanks for the info! I ordered some new spring clamps from McMasterson along with some low pressure hydraulic hoses from them to try as well. I'll report back on how that goes
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
I have a new OEM reservoir on order. Should I flush the old fluid before putting the new reservoir on? Also, any tips on replacement? Is it just a given that it will make a big mess?
