Steering arm keeps bending (pic included) (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Do you have a particular spec?

Seamless?
Cold Drawn or Hot Drawn?
DOM?
ERW?
ASTM A519?
ASTM A513 Type 1, Type 2, Type 5?
Chromoly?

What about wall thickness?

Then let's discuss welding.........
SMAW
GMAW
GTAW

Do you drill and plug in addition to seal weld the ends of the tube? What wire / stick do you recommend?

Do you slip over and reinforce or remove and replace?
LOL

Max ?
 
Do you have a particular spec?

Seamless?
Cold Drawn or Hot Drawn?
DOM?
ERW?
ASTM A519?
ASTM A513 Type 1, Type 2, Type 5?
Chromoly?

What about wall thickness?

Then let's discuss welding.........
SMAW
GMAW
GTAW

Do you drill and plug in addition to seal weld the ends of the tube? What wire / stick do you recommend?

Do you slip over and reinforce or remove and replace?

Do you really want to know? Did you have an actual opinion or did you just copy and paste some wiki article on tubing. Do you disagree with what I said? Do you advise running some sch 40 poop pipe steering? Honestly never seen your fabwork so no idea. How much experience do you have fabricating automotive structural components? With pipe?

FYI My tie rod is 2” .250 DOM with 7/8-3/4 heims. My drag link is 1.50 .250 dom with same heims. Both running weld in hex bungs. I’m running mild steel .035 wire at home. Can tig at work but not needed.

Point is hack s*** on steering isn’t cool. Just fix it right. Its not that expensive. If making one is too much then buy a nice replacement.
 
Last edited:
Time for a new beefier one or smaller tires. Bending it back is a limp it home solution, not something that will last.
 
Do you really want to know? Did you have an actual opinion or did you just copy and paste some wiki article on tubing. Do you disagree with what I said? Do you advise running some sch 40 poop pipe steering? Honestly never seen your fabwork so no idea. How much experience do you have fabricating automotive structural components? With pipe?

FYI My tie rod is 2” .250 DOM with 7/8-3/4 heims. My drag link is 1.50 .250 dom with same heims. Both running weld in hex bungs. I’m running mild steel .035 wire at home. Can tig at work but not needed.

Point is hack s*** on steering isn’t cool. Just fix it right. Its not that expensive. If making one is too much then buy a nice replacement.
No, I do know my s*** about it and since you seemed to have a strong opinion, I want to know your real thought on how to do it.
 
No, I do know my s*** about it and since you seemed to have a strong opinion, I want to know your real thought on how to do it.

No you’re totally right, straighten out the stock one thats been bent and straightened and fatigued many times already and slip some scrap poop pipe out of grandpas shed and burn her on there. Its only steering linkage.

Your experience with poop pipe steering is clearly superior. And your objection to my posts seems legit. Good advice!

Sorry I struck a nerve with your love of schedule 40 automotive fabwork. Meant no offense.

Now how to figure out what od and id is needed...
 
No you’re totally right, straighten out the stock one thats been bent and straightened and fatigued many times already and slip some scrap poop pipe out of grandpas shed and burn her on there. Its only steering linkage.

Your experience with poop pipe steering is clearly superior. And your objection to my posts seems legit. Good advice!

Sorry I struck a nerve with your love of schedule 40 automotive fabwork. Meant no offense.

Now how to figure out what od and id is needed...

Really helpful tech!

No one mentioned pipe. Apart from you, then you went off into a self-righteous rant and you're surprised to get some push back!

If you feel strongly about it, instead of ranting add someone useful info for the people who don't have your clearly awesome and superior fab-fu
 
I used poop pipe for the step on my sliders and it has held up just fine.... but sliders aren't steering
 
Really helpful tech!

No one mentioned pipe. Apart from you, then you went off into a self-righteous rant and you're surprised to get some push back!

If you feel strongly about it, instead of ranting add someone useful info for the people who don't have your clearly awesome and superior fab-fu

And reading comprehension apparently. Sorry I pissed in your cheerios!
 
Oh can I chime in how about gas pipe the black stuff and have Homer at home Depot thread the ends :meh: :meh: :meh: :meh:
 
And A53B sch 40 ain't poop pipe........
Just yankin your chain!!!!!!


Lighten up Francis!

Rather than straighten it and weld a bunch of s*** to it, just replace it....

Cruiser Outfitters has a good one for good pricing as well. @cruiseroutfit

However, if you were going to fix it, I would cut it out, use a comparable diameter, (I may have to use calipers to measure the OD), then use a heavy wall tube, either DOM, CDSMLS, or Chromoly. Probably 1/4" wall, as long as the ID would clear the threads on the TRE.

If you make it too heavy, it pushes the fail point into the steering gear or pitman arm.

It's just a helluva lot easier to call Kurt
 
Marlin Crawler makes a very nice DOM replacement and they can do custom lengths if needed. TRE's are also included.
 
put the pintle on the front,
drill some nice imperial nutserts.

then once your fwd trailer axle squeaks or squats it should let you know
to stop cranking the wheel. Giver
 
put the pintle on the front,
drill some nice imperial nutserts.

then once your fwd trailer axle squeaks or squats it should let you know
to stop cranking the wheel. Giver
What're you going on about?
 
Geez, all the worry warts. Looking back, I would have done DOM.

My rig was wrecked, iI nstalled new front axle (with e-locker). New passenger radius arm, ect.

First time I turned the wheel, kink!

I straightened it out, bought water pipe from Home Depot, sleeved, welded the ends, drillled & rosette welded the length.

10-12 years later, Zero issues.

I posted it to a thread, but I’m not trying to look something up from that long ago.
 
A hi-lift handle fits over it, so just sleeve it with that. Then add another, larger pipe each time it bends, like so:

9E4FA237-9F4B-44F2-B84B-187E1335ADFD.jpeg
 
Once it fails it should be replaced. It will continue to fail as it has been weakened from original form.

Some say upgrade, others prefer this to be the cheaper ‘fuse’ in the system. Grab one from a part out and wheel on.

I used to think it was a fuse in the system. Two twisted sector shafts on mine and one on someone else’s all with straight OE drag links (actually, one of them might have been a a Chinese knockoff) and I no longer subscribe to this theory.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom