Good deal that at least you tried it!!
Starter Problem need advice (1 Viewer)
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I was able to find the Toyota starter connector from these guys:
http://www.bmotorsports.com
TS187 male
the female is on the starter and a bit harder to find. Not sure why you would need to.
http://www.bmotorsports.com
TS187 male
the female is on the starter and a bit harder to find. Not sure why you would need to.
Toyota still sells the factory starter connector, it’s technically a female connector pin in a male housing. You can get the female connector on the starter from China.
- Thread starter
- #64
I replaced those with new Toyota parts last night. When I installed the new terminal wires, I saw corrosion on the 2 'big' wires going into the NSS. Those 2 'big' wires carry current from the ignition switch and the starter. So now, all components of the starting system have been replaced with new in the past year, except for the main engine wire.
The main engine wire is often a PITA.
If you dont want to do the Ford or ST80 you can always do a simple waterproof relay. It's essentially wired in the same.
- Thread starter
- #66
The main engine wire is often a PITA.
Last year, I had my engine rebuilt, and I considered replacing the main engine wire. At the time, it was around $450-$480, I think. Now it is closer to $600. I did not do it because of the cost, and I already had a metric $h!t ton of "while I'm in there..." stuff going on while the engine was out. I had a tremendous amount of "scope creep" happening on that project, and had to draw the line somewhere. But that would have been the time to do it... now I wish I had - just to have that piece of mind.
Yea, I would have loved to put a new harness in during my trucks head gasket job, but just not an option for us early fzj80 folks booo hisss
- Thread starter
- #68
Now I am also wondering, how much of the main engine wire is corroded? Maybe I'm just trying to talk myself into ordering a new engine wire, and justify it. In case anyone is wondering, here is the part number: 82121-60343.
I personally would get one, even if you just throw it on a shelf for the next 10 years. When I did my engine rebuild the harness for the 94 was discontinued. I refreshed the harness with new connectors, wrap, thermal tape etc but I wish I could buy a new one. The harness will eventually be the crux of many engine swaps in the future.
Those of us who can’t get a harness most wish we could.
- Thread starter
- #70
I caved and ordered one, you were the slight nudge for me to get one coming. LOL. If the '94 has been discontinued, then '96 might be discontinued soon...
I dont know how Toyota manufacturing works but my guess is it may be a "while supplies last" situation for these parts. Worst case you could sell it later to a mud member.
Been on the road all week and hitting this thread off and on.
I've had a few starting problems with trucks and most of them were seeing dimming lights when trying to start. This is NOT a voltage problem, It's an amperage problem. There are some VOMs that can read amps but they are typically not rated for what a starter draws. I use them when faced with a parasitic drain on the battery when it drains down the battery over time.
By and large the problem is with the Negative battery cable. I've seen whole dashboards go out when trying to start the truck. The common denominator between the starter and the dash lights is the ground cable. The circuit has 2 sides and a bad connection on either side will produce the same symptoms. At this age, if you have a factory installed Negative cable and having starting issues, I'd get rid of it.
Coincidentally last weekend at our club event I was having multiple starting problems with the click...click...click. I got the truck home and got out a rebuild kit to square away the starter. Well I bought this truck years ago and it came with a denso starter, just a baby one. So I ordered a O'Reilly reman and then saw on this thread that they didn't last.
So I tore apart the O'Reilly reman'd starter as I suspected what the cause for premature failure was as I had experienced the same on my initial attempts years ago. As I suspected the contacts were not square with e the plunger. Toyota states that you need to clamp the contacts in place prior to tightening the contacts to ensure proper engagement. In my reman one contact was cocked. Clamped it down and I'm sure it will be fine.
The truck starts better than ever!
I've had a few starting problems with trucks and most of them were seeing dimming lights when trying to start. This is NOT a voltage problem, It's an amperage problem. There are some VOMs that can read amps but they are typically not rated for what a starter draws. I use them when faced with a parasitic drain on the battery when it drains down the battery over time.
By and large the problem is with the Negative battery cable. I've seen whole dashboards go out when trying to start the truck. The common denominator between the starter and the dash lights is the ground cable. The circuit has 2 sides and a bad connection on either side will produce the same symptoms. At this age, if you have a factory installed Negative cable and having starting issues, I'd get rid of it.
Coincidentally last weekend at our club event I was having multiple starting problems with the click...click...click. I got the truck home and got out a rebuild kit to square away the starter. Well I bought this truck years ago and it came with a denso starter, just a baby one. So I ordered a O'Reilly reman and then saw on this thread that they didn't last.
So I tore apart the O'Reilly reman'd starter as I suspected what the cause for premature failure was as I had experienced the same on my initial attempts years ago. As I suspected the contacts were not square with e the plunger. Toyota states that you need to clamp the contacts in place prior to tightening the contacts to ensure proper engagement. In my reman one contact was cocked. Clamped it down and I'm sure it will be fine.
The truck starts better than ever!
OH BOY A DEAD HORSE! I want to beat it too! It has been far too long since I visited the forums. Hey everybody, it's probably not your starters...I don't even have a Toyota engine in my cruiser (hold the rotten fruit and vegetable throwing and booing). The problem persisted even after a motor swap. I chased the same click no start issue and did the rebuilds and new starters, aftermarket etc... in the end even a new ignition switch and harness. The end result was only being able to start using a momentary switch with the key turned.
Well, my solution was simple and I haven't had an issue so far. It is a lot like the Ford solenoid, except it's just a relay.
I connected a 40A relay, 1 end of the coil to the starter signal wire and the other grounded. A 14AWG fused 12v from the battery in and 14AWG out to the starter.
If the problem is the NSS and I have a manual where the NSS wiring is bridged...how can it be the NSS or the wiring to it?
If it is bad contacts then why did replacing them not give 100% resolution (read would start 90% of the time with new contacts).
If it was the ignition switch or wiring why did the problem persist after they were replaced?
The answer is simple and has been mentioned many times. The signal wire is not only thin, but old and has gone through many heat cycles, oxidized, maybe even broke a strand or 2 and just cannot carry the necessary juice to do its intended job. It can, however, at least in my case operate a small relay. And that relay (fused of course) can transmit the necessary juice while preserving all other functionality. You simply have to wire it directly off of the starter signal wire, not elsewhere in the circuit. If done wisely, this is 100% reversible.
Let the trolling Begin!
Well, my solution was simple and I haven't had an issue so far. It is a lot like the Ford solenoid, except it's just a relay.
I connected a 40A relay, 1 end of the coil to the starter signal wire and the other grounded. A 14AWG fused 12v from the battery in and 14AWG out to the starter.
If the problem is the NSS and I have a manual where the NSS wiring is bridged...how can it be the NSS or the wiring to it?
If it is bad contacts then why did replacing them not give 100% resolution (read would start 90% of the time with new contacts).
If it was the ignition switch or wiring why did the problem persist after they were replaced?
The answer is simple and has been mentioned many times. The signal wire is not only thin, but old and has gone through many heat cycles, oxidized, maybe even broke a strand or 2 and just cannot carry the necessary juice to do its intended job. It can, however, at least in my case operate a small relay. And that relay (fused of course) can transmit the necessary juice while preserving all other functionality. You simply have to wire it directly off of the starter signal wire, not elsewhere in the circuit. If done wisely, this is 100% reversible.
Let the trolling Begin!
Any resolution to this?
60wag
SILVER Star
Anyone else try bypassing the alarm starter interrupt? I've had zero problems since I unplugged it.
I am back at this thread and i still vouch for a ford solenoid if your NNS is faulty, This is a trail rig for the most part and i care less about having a 30 yr old working OE parts when half of the truck has aftermarket components in it. If i this is a collector that sits in a showroom floor, would be a different story.
- Thread starter
- #78
An update from when I first posted...
I replaced the main engine wire because I was thinking there was corrosion in the wire. After I did that, issue still happened. I then took it to a starter specialist shop in town. They looked at it, and could not pin point the issue either. So the solution was: they installed a solenoid. Ever since then, I've had no problems starting the vehicle. So at the end of the day, the original gremlin is still hiding in my truck, I've simply installed a work around. But it does feel nice to have confidence to jump in and have it start every time.
I wish I could have discovered the real issue...as I've said in the beginning, I have pretty much replaced every component of the starting system with no luck. Good luck to everyone dealing with this issue, I wish I found my gremlin...
I replaced the main engine wire because I was thinking there was corrosion in the wire. After I did that, issue still happened. I then took it to a starter specialist shop in town. They looked at it, and could not pin point the issue either. So the solution was: they installed a solenoid. Ever since then, I've had no problems starting the vehicle. So at the end of the day, the original gremlin is still hiding in my truck, I've simply installed a work around. But it does feel nice to have confidence to jump in and have it start every time.
I wish I could have discovered the real issue...as I've said in the beginning, I have pretty much replaced every component of the starting system with no luck. Good luck to everyone dealing with this issue, I wish I found my gremlin...
